Trying to develop a new style.

Wombat85

New member
I feel like I want to change up my style and have been greatly impressed by the star wars clone wars animated series. For those unfamilar here is a sample:

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While sculptural I cant replicate it I want to start to paint like this as I think it would translate well to minis. Its a departure in that often there is visible brush work, something current mini stlye has moved away from but I think with the right style it could look amazing. So the reason for the post is I need help on how to actually translate this stlye to minis, as I am still not sure what the unique properties of the look even are.

Wombat
 
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I see what u mean, and I commend you for following something new and adventurous. First and foremost, like all movements, expect it to be met initially with disdain and downright derision. If you can see past this, I think you need to find minis that closely match the painting style. That probably means low detail, somewhat blocky minis. Like you said, you can see the texture of the brush stroke. Texture is what the style appears to be about. You brush strokes may need to closely match the material they represent. If it's boxy, make very square patterns. Follow the contour of the shape with your strokes. If it's round, paint in circles. Something like fur? Go wild in every direction. See how his armor has a hint of metallic showing beneath? So instead of glazing maroon on top of metal, paint metal and then maroon on top, normal thickness, but let some metal peak through, especially on the edges. With something like a rubber material, you may do the same but leave the hint of a glossy black underneath, etc

I think oil paints may be your weapon of choice here. Idk though...

just my initial thoughts. Seems groovy.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Hmmmn, Yep I'm rather familiar with the Clone Wars animations having all 5 collections (so far).
It's a strong graphic look and sometimes the characters look heavily rendered and almost as if done with chalk pastel especially in close ups.
I'd suggest as an initial test trying to capture a single headshot from the series and try to replicate it, but it looks very like you'd need more directional lighting emphasis and clear colour variation between the layers as opposed to smooth transitions we usually aim for.
 

oistene

Active member
Maybe the Rivet Wars minis will look good painted like this? I haven't actually handled one though, only seen pictures, but they seem to have that blocky, low-detail look.
 

Zab

New member
Looks like a lot of sketched in colors and then refining as needed. You may want to look at James Wappel's shaded basecoat technique as a good starting point. I did a quick space marine in my WIP in about 90 min that looks similar to the Battle Droid (only green).
 
Zab, I have heard of Wappel's shaded basecoat, though I think he is intentionally vague about it unless you buy his materials. Could you offer me a quick (or lengthy) explanation? Is it simply to block in your colors, but use your shades rather than your mid tones in this first step?
 

Zab

New member
Yeah it's worth picking up a few of his dvds like the shaded basecoat one and glazing away one. It's a really different and fun way to paint. Makes you question your own bag of tricks for sure!

Basically you lay down your basecoats with a really messy layer of mid tones and don't worry about if they bleed and overlap because that gives you some color unity later. use a rather large filbert brush here.

Next you can working some lighter zenithal highlights again you don't have to be too clean. use a bigger size of round craft brush here

finally you can start using glazes and liners and shades to tint and force contrast to the first two layers. generally a small hobby round or a liner brush can be used here. you can also bring back some highlight the may get tinted out at this stage too.

Honestly words can't describe this technique. It really is worth seeing him do it on dvd or in person. Took me 3- 4 test minis before i even got the whole process down from start to finish and I could have spent way more time than i did, but as it is it only took 90min start to finish to get the aurora marine in my WIP done using his method. Very cartoony look that you could push further or refine to be more realistic.
 
So, using bigger than normal brushes, you:

o Block out a base coat of the mid tone

o Add highs

o Glaze lows, black line, and redefine highs.


That it, in a nutshell? I saw your work on the WIP and it was commendable, especially given the time. But what I don't understand...where is the shading going on for the "shaded" basecoat? The basecoat is a mid tone. Shading happens as a last step, and as a glaze. Certainly not the thicker paint most artists employ for their base coat. Is this just a misnomer?

Also, please don't look at this a detracting from the thread, as this could be used, potentially, to accomplish the OP's goals.
 
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Zab

New member
In theory it sounds that simple. In practice you could go mad trying to get it right. It might be easier for newer painters to learn than vets as there is less for newer painters to let go of while learning this way. There is a lot of back and forth and your palette can be as big or small as you like and there is a lot of color mixing from basecoat to shades and such. James came up with it as a way to keep colors uniform across armies without the need for exact paint matches. The man is a mad genius really and the technique is great way to stretch your skills and learn a few new lessons about color theory and harmony. Trying it out on some bones minis I actually lost my cool and smashed one with a hammer. I haven't done that for years - also, bones minis are very unsatisfying to smash with a hammer. Stupid polyvinyl plastic! Once it all clicks though, it is really incredible to see it come together.
 
Ugh Bones!!! I can't even stand to practice on them because the surface doesn't act like normal primed plastic or resin.

Oh he is a genius. I just feel like the technique is more suited towards someone of his natural talent. Mortals like myself have to rely on elbow grease. Short cuts won't do it. Christ, the man was a 2d painter for decades first, using almost every medium to express himself. Of course he can scribble colors together with a mop and it's beautiful :)
 

Wombat85

New member
Thanks a lot all. Looking at james wappels work it is defiantly down the path I want to tread, I think I need more prounced brush strokes to achieve what I want. Not sure the best way to do that, thicker paint or fewer strokes with more pressure and a stiffer brush?
 

Zab

New member
Thanks a lot all. Looking at james wappels work it is defiantly down the path I want to tread, I think I need more prounced brush strokes to achieve what I want. Not sure the best way to do that, thicker paint or fewer strokes with more pressure and a stiffer brush?

My thought would be bigger brushes, possibly synthetic so they have pronounced strokes and paints that have a high opacity rather than the those that are less opaque. That way you can thin them to the desired opacity. I'd look at the GW base paints, some of the Americana line and Duncan paints for that.
 

Trevor

Brushlicker and Freak!
I would say definitely not thicker paint. One way would be less paint on the brush and a slightly beaten up brush and 'wet brush' (like dry brush, but with thinner wetter paint), this should leave you that 'streaky' effect.
 

Roofpig

New member
I really like this idea..I have limited mini painting experience (first post here!!!) but a chunk of 3d and design experience.....

One of the styles defining characteristics is clean black lines on the hard edges.
From a digital perspective, the stylised look could come from a "smudging" of colours from a rough brushstroke texture - putting that into acrylics might be hard.. perhaps use retarder and "smudge" the shadows and midtones (same with highlights) with a textured material like a sponge or maybe gently with course sandpaper (really gently) - try loads of different materianls for the texture (dried leaves, cork, kitchen towels all come to mind)

I reckon this style lends its self to experimentation (WH40k marine vehicles could be great paractise pieces due to their blocky nature and large surface areas)

Then again.. im still not brave enough to post a mini here so what do I know :)
 

Zab

New member
Sound interesting and I will try!
Any links to Wappel's videos?
not as of yet, I got them through the ks a while back. They should be available soon in a digital format. He's pretty good about replying to questions on his blog though :)
 
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