TrystanGST's WIP thread
- Thread starter TrystanGST
- Start date
TrystanGST
New member
Thanks Moe - though to be fair you can't be talking about these Bones rush jobs 
Now I remember why I tend to prefer NMM. Metallic paints are their own beast, AND they don't photograph well.
Not horribly pleased with the metals overall, but I'm not going to labor over it. Onward and upward. Kav here needs to be finished so I can unleash him on the other painted Bones.
Now I remember why I tend to prefer NMM. Metallic paints are their own beast, AND they don't photograph well.
Not horribly pleased with the metals overall, but I'm not going to labor over it. Onward and upward. Kav here needs to be finished so I can unleash him on the other painted Bones.
Zab
New member
Pish posh. Just apply the same NNM theory to the tmm and exaggerate the contrast with washes and glazes. Then pick out the highest reflections in the brightest silver you have. Draw a few diagonal lines across the surface for reflections and bob's your uncle. See blade below...
View attachment 23180
Tabletop job, but still passable. And yes, I said pish posh. Mock me if you like.
View attachment 23180
Tabletop job, but still passable. And yes, I said pish posh. Mock me if you like.
TrystanGST
New member
Mock? Never, good sir.
We need more pish poshing around here, I dare say.
And thanks Zab - I've only really done the TMM thing once before. I need more practice haha.
We need more pish poshing around here, I dare say.
And thanks Zab - I've only really done the TMM thing once before. I need more practice haha.
TrystanGST
New member
Just some basecoating. The axe blade got a grey undercoat at the suggestion of someone much better than me. We shall see what effect it has on the silver that comes later.
TrystanGST
New member
Kav, the Hand Hunter, is done.
TrystanGST
New member
Haha not full of car grease and dirt, eh? Keyboards keep my hands nice and soft....
TrystanGST
New member
Meph - since I do most of my painting these days at work, I have to keep the mess to a minimum. No basing, no assembly, no prepping, no sculpting. Paints and palette are put away at the end of the session, and usually just stay here in a locked cabinet. Sometimes I throw the paints, brushes, minis and ottlite into my backpack for transport, if I feel like I'll paint at home.
I asked some folks over on the Reaper boards to select my next Bones from a handful I had pulled out. They picked this high wizard. A good chance to do some OSL (magenta on the hand, green on the staff end, and yellow from the candle). Maybe some freehand on the robes too, if I can just find a good pattern to use that doesn't look contrived.
I decided to shade the black with blue (haven't done it yet).
The inner robe was going to be a light grey/white, but I'm worried it'll blend with the beard. So I'll probably end up with more of an ivory/linen color. So that'll need to be re-basecoated. No biggie.
Tonight's effort was the beard, the face, and the parchment.
Beard was based with GW Codex Grey, washed with GW Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed/highlighted with GW Ulthuan Grey.
Skin is GW Tallarn, washed selectively with GW Agrax Earthshade, and then highlighted with Vallejo Basic Skintone.
Parchment is based with GW Bubonic Brown, washed liberally with GW Agrax Earthshade, and then the high spots hit again with Bubonic Brown.
I asked some folks over on the Reaper boards to select my next Bones from a handful I had pulled out. They picked this high wizard. A good chance to do some OSL (magenta on the hand, green on the staff end, and yellow from the candle). Maybe some freehand on the robes too, if I can just find a good pattern to use that doesn't look contrived.
I decided to shade the black with blue (haven't done it yet).
The inner robe was going to be a light grey/white, but I'm worried it'll blend with the beard. So I'll probably end up with more of an ivory/linen color. So that'll need to be re-basecoated. No biggie.
Tonight's effort was the beard, the face, and the parchment.
Beard was based with GW Codex Grey, washed with GW Nuln Oil, and then drybrushed/highlighted with GW Ulthuan Grey.
Skin is GW Tallarn, washed selectively with GW Agrax Earthshade, and then highlighted with Vallejo Basic Skintone.
Parchment is based with GW Bubonic Brown, washed liberally with GW Agrax Earthshade, and then the high spots hit again with Bubonic Brown.
TrystanGST
New member
A bit more work. Not totally happy with the grey - it's not close to white, but I don't know that I want to go that far. It's too flat still in spots though. Maybe some freehand borders will liven it up. I don't know.
ten ball
Active member
The problem on the grey is there are a lot of flat surfaces that are hard to shade. I would force the contrast on the hat and sleeve (making shades where there should be no shades). Don't go to dark with them.
Like this
View attachment 23311
Like this
View attachment 23311
TrystanGST
New member
Yeah, yeah. I started another model. I can't help myself.
The figure was primed black, because the only white primer I have is horribly crusty. Or else I would have done some zenithal priming.
Skin has been basecoated with GW Tallarn Flesh. Thinned slightly, so it took a few coats. But at least I didn't have to worry about paint accumulation or brush strokes.
I meant to take a few intermediate shots, but as I went back and forth with the highs and lows, I never put the brush down. Sorry.
My usual M.O. is to go from darkest to lightest, but I worked a little differently here.
After I had the basecoat in place, I added a little GW Scorched Brown to the Flesh and worked down towards shadows. There were a few mixes, and the very darkest spots have some thin Scorched Brown.
After that was done, I went after the highlights by repeating the process, but with Vallejo Model Color Basic Skintone. The very highest highlights (nose, tops of breasts, belly button area) have a dab of pure skintone.
The contrast is actually even a bit stronger than the photos suggest.
There's probably some touchups still to be done, but it'll be easier to tell once the other colors are at least blocked in.
The figure was primed black, because the only white primer I have is horribly crusty. Or else I would have done some zenithal priming.
Skin has been basecoated with GW Tallarn Flesh. Thinned slightly, so it took a few coats. But at least I didn't have to worry about paint accumulation or brush strokes.
I meant to take a few intermediate shots, but as I went back and forth with the highs and lows, I never put the brush down. Sorry.
My usual M.O. is to go from darkest to lightest, but I worked a little differently here.
After I had the basecoat in place, I added a little GW Scorched Brown to the Flesh and worked down towards shadows. There were a few mixes, and the very darkest spots have some thin Scorched Brown.
After that was done, I went after the highlights by repeating the process, but with Vallejo Model Color Basic Skintone. The very highest highlights (nose, tops of breasts, belly button area) have a dab of pure skintone.
The contrast is actually even a bit stronger than the photos suggest.
There's probably some touchups still to be done, but it'll be easier to tell once the other colors are at least blocked in.
TrystanGST
New member
Also, I picked up Scale 75's Steel NMM paint set. I will be interested to see how that works out. Unfortunately I didn't order it directly from them, but the 16 euro shipping charge was 60% as much as the paint kit. I did find a store up in Michigan that was selling it though, and it was a much more reasonable $5 shipping. $31 for 8 bottles of paint is a pretty good deal.
If this set works out as well as I suspect it will, I will definitely go back for their Gold/Copper set.
Let's not talk about Scale 75's figures though....shhh.
If this set works out as well as I suspect it will, I will definitely go back for their Gold/Copper set.
Let's not talk about Scale 75's figures though....shhh.
TrystanGST
New member
I work midnight to 8am, and only really have stuff to do if something breaks. I gotta stay awake somehow
