Two questions.
- Thread starter bakalla
- Start date
farseerlum
New member
on a related note one of my eye dropper bottles is falling apart.
the white dropper part has been crushed by the lid, probably due to my hands of steel.
so don\'t overtighten them they don\'t need it or want it!
yours truly
big strong oaf
the white dropper part has been crushed by the lid, probably due to my hands of steel.
so don\'t overtighten them they don\'t need it or want it!
yours truly
big strong oaf
G
Grumbold Ironbrow
Guest
Brushed, brushes everywhere
Answers:
1) I have been using Loew and Corrnell brushes and Newton/Winsor Gold Spectre and Series 7 brushes. If you clean them properly between uses and conditin them they should last quite a while.
2) Sounds like you need to shake the crap out of them before you use them. they do have a tendency to seperate.
Cheers,
Grumb
Answers:
1) I have been using Loew and Corrnell brushes and Newton/Winsor Gold Spectre and Series 7 brushes. If you clean them properly between uses and conditin them they should last quite a while.
2) Sounds like you need to shake the crap out of them before you use them. they do have a tendency to seperate.
Cheers,
Grumb
Really good point....
I should have made it clear that the object needs to be inert, hence the advantage of glass beads I suppose.
I have never had any problems with model trimmings personally, and I have some pots of paint that are over a decade old...That is not to say that modern alloys would be as good however. And, manufacturers do vary the make-up of their casting material so I guess you would have to be a bit careful, although I would suspect that none of them are really prone to rusting.
Sippog, where did you get a paintshaker for 4 bucks? They are over $30 on the micromark site...
A pretty quick way to ruin your expensive paints would be by introducing a steel ball bearing....
I should have made it clear that the object needs to be inert, hence the advantage of glass beads I suppose.
I have never had any problems with model trimmings personally, and I have some pots of paint that are over a decade old...That is not to say that modern alloys would be as good however. And, manufacturers do vary the make-up of their casting material so I guess you would have to be a bit careful, although I would suspect that none of them are really prone to rusting.
Sippog, where did you get a paintshaker for 4 bucks? They are over $30 on the micromark site...
vincegamer
Active member
Well, I think these are too big for vallejo bottles, but if you use GW paint in the original package or you bought bigger dropper bottles from Western Plastics or somewhere, you can use ceramic pie weights. The work very well and don\'t have any reactive stuff to add to the paint.
Cerridwyn1st
New member
More brushes
I tend to use very little paint on my brushes and kind of \"scrub\" it on. This is really hard on the brushes. If you paint in a similar way, maybe that is why your brushes get scrubby really fast.
I\'ve tried a lot of different brands. I have one Windsor Newton - can\'t say it Series 7 or not. Whatever it is, it is holding up really well and is rapidly becoming one of my favorites.
I have a paintbrush cleaner that is helpful for reconditioning bristles. I don\'t remember what it is called, but it comes in a round, flat, tan-colored plastic can with brown lettering. I saturate the brush with the cleaner, shape the bristles, then let it dry.
I had an old GW brush that was really gunked up. I let it soak in Simple Green and was able to get almost all of the old paint out. That brush is much better now.
Speaking of GW brushes - I\'ve used those and the ones Reaper offers. Not impressed with either. I have a brush I bought in a store that sells railroad and car modeling supplies. It is from a Japanese manufacturer. Now there\'s a brush I really like.
I tend to use very little paint on my brushes and kind of \"scrub\" it on. This is really hard on the brushes.
If you paint in a similar way, maybe that is why your brushes get scrubby really fast.I\'ve tried a lot of different brands. I have one Windsor Newton - can\'t say it Series 7 or not. Whatever it is, it is holding up really well and is rapidly becoming one of my favorites.
I have a paintbrush cleaner that is helpful for reconditioning bristles. I don\'t remember what it is called, but it comes in a round, flat, tan-colored plastic can with brown lettering. I saturate the brush with the cleaner, shape the bristles, then let it dry.
I had an old GW brush that was really gunked up. I let it soak in Simple Green and was able to get almost all of the old paint out. That brush is much better now.
Speaking of GW brushes - I\'ve used those and the ones Reaper offers. Not impressed with either. I have a brush I bought in a store that sells railroad and car modeling supplies. It is from a Japanese manufacturer. Now there\'s a brush I really like.
