Ulric WIP (& first NMM attempt) comments appreciated

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OrkyDave

New member
Hiya,

Here is a shot of a current WIP, and my first attempt at NMM!!! (its only taken me 15 odd years to pluck up the balls to have a go at this!)

ulric2.jpg

ulric3.jpg

ulric1.jpg


I have only really attempted this technique on certain parts of the mini, such as shoulderpad, knee pad, and some of the banding on the mini\'s right hand side, bits like the crozius and belt eagle have only been given a basecoat with snakebite leather.

This is a test piece so please let me know if I am on the right tracks or what I need to be doing to put wrong stuff right.

I have started painting bases first as these usually get neglected and rushed at the end, and I am pleased with how this looks too! (a bit gutted he is only a test bit as I am quite happy with him so far, just gutted it took me 12 years to get around to painting him...)

Comments and critiques (no matter how harsh!) are sought and appreciated as I really do want to improve.

Cheers
 
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Starks333

New member
things are looking good

the only thing might be to try to blend a bit smoother, you might need to thin you paint more, or just apply more/better washes etc

Starks
 
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matty1001

New member
Like Jake said, bring the gold up another 1 or 2 levels of highlights so it contrasts with the darker shades.
The icon on his chest doesn\'t look like gold (is it meant to be?) it just looks like flat yellow at the moment.
The bone areas are great though. And the staff thing looks a little bent to the left, it might just be me though.
 
war0827

war0827

New member
It\'s looking very good so far. What color\'s did you use for blending?

Definately need a bit more contrast like the other two said.

Love the head.
 
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hubbabubba

New member
As already said, more highlights on the gold to bring out the contrast, choice of colours looks good.

Personally I don\'t like the base, throws the whole composition off for me, it\'s all lob sided. I\'d keep the slate/stone/whatever, and mount it on a bigger base piece.

Thanks for posting this, my nmm sucks, so it\'s great to see you going for it.
 
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MathewBaich

New member
More contrast, like what has been said before and do you wet blend or layer your highlights on the NMM? Another thing that has worked for me is to glaze he gold parts with some brown ink a couple times then go back with with a lemon yellow then a tiny bit of white over some of the lemon yellow. Hope that helps.
 
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OrkyDave

New member
Thanks for the feedback so far guys- Will highlight the gold more to get more contrast. As I said this is my first attempt so thanks for pointing out where I\'m going wrong!

The gold is base coated with GW snakebite leather, then black is mixed into this gradually for the shading, then snake bite and golden yellow for highlights with bleached bone - on added for lighter highlights. I recall hearing not to use white to highlight/reflective light gold as IRL it doesn\'t reflect true white- is this correct?

The cross on the chest does look a bit flat but will add more contrast when I next paint. The crozius staff may well be bent- this is a test piece salvaged from my bitz box.

I am layering as I have not attempted wet blends yet (one thing at a time!) and no glazes as of yet but will bear this in mind.

The base I made myself, tis just a bit of slate, stuck on a standard round GW base (without slotta slot). A 1p coin was glued into this to help balance out the slate and model so it didn\'t tip over. A 2p coin was then glued to the base of the base. I got another standard GW round non slotta, turned it upside down and glued another 1p in for good measure. The rim of the base was glued to the underside of the 2p and the 2 weighted bases became 1 heavy base which was glued to the indent of a warmachine round base. Hey presto- cheap and cheerful display bases. (you can even ditch the coins if your mini will be sensibly balanced and save yourself 4p, thats Asda price!)

Thanks for the feedback, very helpful and valuable so far, keeps it comin!!!
 
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Starks333

New member
Originally posted by OrkyDave
The gold is base coated with GW snakebite leather, then black is mixed into this gradually for the shading, then snake bite and golden yellow for highlights with bleached bone - on added for lighter highlights. I recall hearing not to use white to highlight/reflective light gold as IRL it doesn\'t reflect true white- is this correct?
Click to expand...

***the difference with using true white and not is this:

true white= fake looking gold, but it still looks gold

non true white= a more realistic looking gold, still looks gold

now using white to mix is fine, but you want to end with a veyr light yellow, not white...

im no expert ive only done it twice, but from every example ive liked ive seen no white

best example ive seen: Valten- Alexi Z

im not 100% positive as i never asked, but im pretty sure theres no white and rather a very light yellow


Starks
 
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MathewBaich

New member
yes, you\'re right starks, looking at my dwarf, I see that it is very yellow and not whitelol but yeah, look at doing glazes and I would reccommend starting at a darker brown than snakebite leather. Maybe bubonic?
 
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Starks333

New member
bubonic is actually brighter and the main colour in my golds :p

bestial+snakebite might work nicely

or snakebite+scorched

of course my gold is not Alexi Zs....it will be because im going to attempt his style the next time i do nmm gold, well what i think he uses at least hahaha or maybe ill just ask ???

its all in the contrast i didnt get what they meant when they told me that at first, but you will notice it as you go

Starks
 
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Starks333

New member
aw crap i did say he/his didnt i...blast...truth is out i didnt know :p at first i thought she was a she, then something told me otherwise...which was weird(maybe someones reply to her work?)

thanks Jake!
 
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OrkyDave

New member
with the gold, I asked brokenblade, who\'s work I am a great admirer of. He uses snakebite and mixes with black and white only.
 
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