Vallejo Blood Red

DannyBoy2k

DannyBoy2k

New member
Am I the only one who has had a peculiar experience with this color?
Most other Vallejo, if not all(haven't TRIED all, so...) work quite well.
But the Blood(y) Red has about the same viscosity as water...it beaded
on top of the basecoat almost like water on oil. I'm all for several coats
and all, but 6-7 coats to get a decent, solid color...I paint to play, and
I don't feel like spending an hour plus per mini in a bog-standard unit.
I mean, if I could paint well, I could see that kind of effort on a general
or similar, not grunt number 7 in squad 3.
 
DannyBoy2k

DannyBoy2k

New member
Game Color. I was thinking, at first, that it might be that it
needed to be shaken. But that didn't help either.
 
S

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
Yeah I actually had the same thing on my game color. I bought the range and I have found three paints from the set at least that have that qaulity problem. The Dark Angels Green, The mentioned red, and the Camo Green as well. I bought mine two years ago, and I don't know how old they would have been before that. I don't think age is an issue with them though.

I use very little of my game color paints in favor of the Vallejo Model color range. Other than their metals (Not that great I found) I have had wonderful experiences with the model color paints. Their Model Air Metals are amazingly good.
 
R

Ritual

New member
The Game Color range is very much hit and miss in quality. A lot of the paints are rather poor, in my experience. The Model Color range is much better, IMO. Better pigments, more pigment above all, usually better coverage and a much more consistent quality throughout the range. There are a few problematic paints in the VMC range as well, but with the huge selection of paints you can generally find alternatives that are better.
 
MajorTom11

MajorTom11

New member
I have had similar issues, both with model and game ranges, with bright reds, very translucent and really seems to be more of a glaze than anything. That being said, they have their uses even in that state.

Recommend mixing in a touch of GW blood red or mechrite red to get better opacity without damaging the tone of the red too badly... it will however lose a bit of punch compared to what it looks like in bottle.
 
J

james sequeira

New member
I have been meaning to try out the P3 reds in place of the gw and game colour ones, but there was no seller at the show I attended lately : /
 
J

jahminis

New member
i haven't tried any of the vallejo reds, but i use P3 all the time...
a word of caution about making the switch...
Sanguine Base is great, and i use it as the basecoat for all my reds, 'cause it covers nice and goes on smooth...
Skorne Red is an odd, flat tone, that i don't like on its own...
i do mix Sanguine and Skorne to make a nice solid red that covers well for a mid-tone...

Khador Red base is a nice substitute for Blood Red...
covers well, and is nice and bright...
it also mixes well with other tonees...

now, here's the deal...
none of these colours are a replacement for Red Gore and Scab Red (or their Vallejo versions)...
for those who don't like to work out mixed versions, it's much better to stick with the Scab and Gore pots...

i can't say enough good things about the Khador Red Base...
does the job way better than Blood Red...

just some food for thought...

cheers
jah
 
DannyBoy2k

DannyBoy2k

New member
Interesting. But then the problem becomes, where to find...P3, was it? While I'm sure I could buy it from the 'net, seems a bit excessive for just the one color, to try...
 
F

flagoon

New member
ScottRadom said:
Yeah I actually had the same thing on my game color. I bought the range and I have found three paints from the set at least that have that qaulity problem. The Dark Angels Green, The mentioned red, and the Camo Green as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I confirm that. Dark Angels Green sucks to paint. It was my first opened Vallejo paint and I almost flush all Vallejo to the toilet. Blood Red is better, but still covers very poorly. I usually put twice as many layers as other paints. Right now I'm changing slowly to Model Color and I'm quite happy with them. As for reds, I've heard P3 has the best coverage for bright reds. Look here (P3 Khador Red Base, Citadel Blood Red, VGC Bloody Red, VMC Carmine Red i RMS Blood Red, picture from Polish website, article about paints):
740b.jpg
 
Donga

Donga

Active member
Vallejo (GC) blood red settles like a bugger, shaking it will not get the problem sorted. I pulled the dropper top off then gave it a mix with an small screw driver. The pigment had settled and produced a sludge at the bottom that no amount of shaking would move. Once the screwdriver had done its work I added a stainless steel ball-bearing as an agitator. Good old shake.

Problem solved, its actually nice paint now.

Alot of paints gain from adding an agitator to the pot, GW foundation paints, P3 and alot of the Vallejo ranges. Any heavily pigmented paints will settle over time.
 
MajorTom11

MajorTom11

New member
Alot of paints gain from adding an agitator to the pot, GW foundation paints, P3 and alot of the Vallejo ranges. Any heavily pigmented paints will settle over time.
Click to expand...

That's really interesting, I'll give that a go, thanks Donga!
 
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IronKobra

IronKobra

New member
Very useful little comparison!

Does anyone have a good Vallejo bunch of reds for me to try out with Blood Angels? Specifically the Model Colour range? I have a local hobby store that stocks these so easily available and cheap.

like a shade, basecoat and highlight?

I have used nothing but Citadel in the past and just would like to see how they differ. The mechrite to blood red was ok with citadel but I have heard too much about vallejo to ignore it.
 
mutogeno

mutogeno

New member
Greetings! i'm using vallejo color and GW color, im migrating to vallejo. Also traying andrea colors. However.. i got flat red vallejo, and is very diluite..i thought that the bottle was refilled with water...but then i experienced the same thing with orange and yellow. I use to paint on black undercoat, so to paint red i give 3 layers of scab red "or equivalent" with 50/60 % of wather than 2 layers of sca red + flat red and then 3 layers of flat red. each layer is very diluite usually at least 50% of water..if u experiece problems "as me" u can use lesser water. to create higlight i use flat orange of vallejo. I'm buying flat color then i use the black white or grey to create a different tonality? or wash for the dark area. well color tecniques need also different color to create shadowing or higlight as using green for the red or brown..and the yellow or orange with the red to create highlight insted of white cose..u create the lighter tonality as pink.... sorry for my english :D

if u want u can see the results searching for my blood angels rhino and predator..



p.s i use model color

p.s to be sure that the color is well shaken, i putted inside 2 small spheric plumbs, usually i use them to fish :D hahahah i know that r toxic and dangerous but i'm losing the bad habit to put between my mouth's lips the brush to make it more sharp...
 
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C

Chrome

New member
Love their comment about how much colour their pots contain! "All our paint pots contain a whopping 20ml of paint (not like some at 12ml!)"

Hmm, wonder who they're pointing sticks at... :D
 
mickc22

mickc22

Granddad!
yeah their "flat rate" is a bit of a pain on small orders, I usually wait till I want a few things off them
 
B

Bartali

New member
Apologies for resurrecting !

I've started to run out of old GW Blood Red, and starting to look for a Vallejo Replacement (I can get these as easily as GW's paint). On various colour charts VGC Bloody Red and VMC Vermillion seem to be close matches.

Which one is the closest to the opacity/consistancy of old GW Blood Red ? From what people are saying above, VGC Bloody Red is a lot more watery ?
 
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