Varnish and metal paints

[isaacc]

Can you tell me if my thinking is correct.

I intend to create well-painted gaming figures. Because the figures are not for display only and will be frequently manipulated, it is important that they are covered by a final protective coat of varnish. Anything but a matte varnish will look unnatural. A matte varnish will cover up any metal paint used on armour and weapons, for example, flattening out the refelctivity, defeating the point of using metal paint in the first place. So, for gaming pieces especially, NMM is really the only way to go.

Moreover, the idea of selectively using satin and gloss varnishes would not work out. They too would cover up the natural reflectivity of metal paint, replacing it with an unnatural glassy shine. Secondly, unless I mix at least several values worth of gloss, uniform gloss will again make the reflectivity look unreal. Therefore, having to go through that kind of effort, one might as well create NMM in the first place.

Or, perhaps there exists a protective coating that allows light to pass through and be reflected unhindered?

Thanks.

 

[MAXXxxx]

not quite.

1. altough the varnish does lessen the contrast in the metal a bit, but not that badly as you think. You can pretty much live with it.
Altough I'm far from being good, but all the minis in my gallery have either a matt varnish or a satin one at the end so you can check them if you want to.

2. you can add extra contrast for the metals too, so after the varnish they'll look just right.

3. this whole 'metal looses it's effect' affects really display minis only, as the transition is much finer, than by normal gaming pieces and is visible on photos mostly, not when holding the mini in your hand.

 

[QuietiManes]

For metallics to look right they need to be highlighted and shaded too (even though most gamers don't do that, which is why metallics look so bad most of the time), just like any other surface, so, in some respects, for gaming pieces, you are over thinking it.

The metallic flakes still "sparkle and shine" as they reflect light differently than the particles beside them, so even with a matte varnish it still looks "metallic", as Max pointed out.

What most people do for gaming pieces is spray a coat of glossy varnish, let it cure, spray a coat of matte varnish, let it cure, done. Some folks do mix it up a bit, brush painting the matte on selective parts, or going back in with a brush on gloss (after spraying matte all over) on selective parts if that's easier. It's not a whole lot of extra work to brush on some matte...and even some satin too if you need to...because it's just a broad covering, you don't need to take much time being careful.

 

[Master Splinter]

You can use Valleyo Gloss Varnish (black dop.)

 

[RuneBrush]

Gloss varnish is without a doubt the best protector there is, so as QuietMarines says, a lot of painters tend to spray a few thin coats of gloss varnish onto a mini and (after 24 hours) put a layer or two of matte varnish on. Testors Dull Cote or (my preference) Daler Rowney Soluable Matt Varnish from an airbrush are two of the flattest matte's I've seen. It's worth noting that you should let the gloss fully cure - not just wait until the "recoat time" before you apply the matte.

Spot highlighting different vanishes can also help to reaffirm certain finishes (patent leather boots, glass etc). I've also seen a mini vanished and then metallic edge highlights applied afterwards so they're not dulled down.