@washing models
- Thread starter heyhey123
- Start date
The new shades are deffo shinier, and thinner than before. Overall I think they're better though but they do have more trouble staying in recesses so I lay the model flat sometimes. Matte medium could work but remember it will affect how the wash works (possibly for the better?), I just use a matte spray (Mr Super Clear Matte UV Cut) since I'm in JPN but dullcote will give the same result.
QuietiManes
New member
I'm always surprised by people when they complain about the shine of certain paints/washes/etc, because it means they aren't protecting their miniatures at all, doesn't it? Since it wouldn't be noticeable once you matte, satin or glossy varnish the figure (or at least barely noticeable).
The standard "gaming" application is to do coat or two of glossy followed by a coat or two of matte. To give the most protection and least shine. I always thought display models got at least a light coat of matte.
I dunno, it just seems like an odd contradiction, that someone would care that it is a little shinier but not care that the paint will get rubbed off all the raised surfaces by the third game. I dunno, I guess I'm weird, I think about weird things way too much.
The standard "gaming" application is to do coat or two of glossy followed by a coat or two of matte. To give the most protection and least shine. I always thought display models got at least a light coat of matte.
I dunno, it just seems like an odd contradiction, that someone would care that it is a little shinier but not care that the paint will get rubbed off all the raised surfaces by the third game. I dunno, I guess I'm weird, I think about weird things way too much.
If you are using the wash as your final shade you should be good to use a matte sealer like Testor's Dullcote. I would suggest getting the Gloss cote as well and applying two coats of gloss followed by two light coats of dull for table top usable minis. Please, please please be careful using this stuff. It is the most toxic spray in a can I can think of. A couple night of painful tight lungs and headaches will teach yah!
If you are washing and intend to keep blending and the gloss is not letting you achieve your coloring because of the slightly glossy surface I find using a light coat of Dullcote will bring back the texture for a proper blend. Dullcote also isn't too thick so you don't really have to worry about that (as long as your careful)
I found using a matte black india ink that comes in the eye dropper bottles mixed with my pigments and then diluted even more with water works great and it won't gloss. You can pick these up for around $8.50 at a well stocked art supplier. It will last you a looooooong time. I don't prefer out of the bottle mini inks at all because of the shiny finish. Shine = Impossible blending ability for glazing and blending. You need to keep the surface matte at all costs!!!
If you are washing and intend to keep blending and the gloss is not letting you achieve your coloring because of the slightly glossy surface I find using a light coat of Dullcote will bring back the texture for a proper blend. Dullcote also isn't too thick so you don't really have to worry about that (as long as your careful)
I found using a matte black india ink that comes in the eye dropper bottles mixed with my pigments and then diluted even more with water works great and it won't gloss. You can pick these up for around $8.50 at a well stocked art supplier. It will last you a looooooong time. I don't prefer out of the bottle mini inks at all because of the shiny finish. Shine = Impossible blending ability for glazing and blending. You need to keep the surface matte at all costs!!!
RuneBrush
New member
It depends entirely on the glaze and the blending
Sorry that sounds really vague. If you're painting something yellow and have highlighted up to almost pure white, a yellow glaze will help to pull it all together and remove the whiteness out of the highlights. Equally if you've something red that you've shaded with browns and highlighted with orange/yellows and the end effect doesn't look very red, a red glaze will help to harmonise all of the individual colours together. You can also use a thin glaze to "tint" something (green skin flesh for example)You don't *have* to glaze either, often painters will only use a glaze for specific results. GW are using their new glazes straight onto a white undercoat to good effect too.
pete
Another thing I didn't even think of is your base coat. If you apply one really thick base coat it will have a tendency to be have a glossy finish. A base coat must be applied in a 50/50 mix paint/water over many (sometimes 5 or more) consecutive coats letting each one dry. It looks crappy during the first couple coats but refuse the temptation to put it on thicker. Let them dry. This will produce a matte base that will better at accepting your 3/1 water/ paint mix (skim milk). If you have a glossy surface the surface tension is too high. The paint won't stick but run off where you are trying to apply the highlight/shading. You want the surface to be just a bit porous to "suck in" the paint a bit.
Routaporsas
New member
I don't find anything unusual not to varnish ones miniatures. Ok, I paint mainly display models but I don't varnish those. For in many cases varnishing models will do more harm than not to varnish those. Seems to me that for example quite many spray varnish are just rubbish, or if not complete rubbish then at least not very matte either. Perhaps best matte varnish I have tried so far is brush on vallejo matt varnish, but it isn't completely matte either. It has slight sheen, although it is not quite like satin. Same goes for vallejo matte spray. I don't even want to mention purity sh*t by GW. How about some cheap and usually reliable brand like maston...hmmm, it turned yellow after some time. Great stuff. You really want to use that for your GD-winning models. Now whatever the case, varnish will always change the end result more or less and I just don't like it that much.
Granted that gaming pieces might be a different thing, but my display models have not yet rubbed against each other in my vitrine. I dust them occasionally, but I just use soft and large brush or compressed air to to it. And I also don't believe that one really thin coat of whatever varnish will do much good anyways. I have actually tested that and it is almost same as not to use varnish at all. Oh and what comes to that testors dullcoat; it is easier to find genuine moonstones :arrogant:
However, I also find few drops of matte medium to cure the shine. It work fine with GW inks, or are they washes nowadays.
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QuietiManes
New member
Fair enough. But I don't think the people complaining about shine are the ones doing display level miniatures. For tabletop gamers and RPG'ers and the like, I guess it's always a compromise how you paint and finish off your models, one way or the other.
I think Testors Dullcote had/has some legal issues with its chemical makeup in certain countries. At least, I remember hearing something about that a while ago. It's easy to find in Canada here, too bad it's pressurized cans we all love so much, otherwise I could make a mint buying it all up around town and selling it to other countries. Well I guess it'd be available online from a dozen suppliers if that was the case...but anyway. Apparently the brush on is pretty good too, if you have an airbrush the results are similar to the rattlecan. Heard good things about the Tamiya matte clear, forget the name though, too, if you can find it. By the reviews it's just about the closest thing to the Testors.
I think Testors Dullcote had/has some legal issues with its chemical makeup in certain countries. At least, I remember hearing something about that a while ago. It's easy to find in Canada here, too bad it's pressurized cans we all love so much, otherwise I could make a mint buying it all up around town and selling it to other countries. Well I guess it'd be available online from a dozen suppliers if that was the case...but anyway. Apparently the brush on is pretty good too, if you have an airbrush the results are similar to the rattlecan. Heard good things about the Tamiya matte clear, forget the name though, too, if you can find it. By the reviews it's just about the closest thing to the Testors.
PegaZus
Stealth Freak
Okay. Here's what we do. We need a fast boat, 10 pounds of beef jerky, a keg of good beer, and a GPS unit. We stock up on Testors Dullcote and make a run off the west coast of England to trade half the Dullcote for more beer. We then hop over to Denmark and sell the other half there. Then we make a quick run down to Jamaica, pick up some rum, head north then sell the boat and what's left of the beef jerky in New Orleans and split things 50/50. Deal?
QuietiManes
New member
Sounds like an adventure! But we'll need some vitamin C too, let's not forget the Flintstone chewables.
She's a rather attractive red headed singer, but surely you'd need a change of songs now and again.?
QuietiManes
New member
Haha, anything to avoid the scurvy.
The Dullcote spray issue was probably toluene being banned in many countries. After Einion recently mentioned it being reformulated I picked up a few of the new cans and it seems to do the job still. It still smells like something you wouldn't want to breathe so standard precautions still apply. I recklessly tested it in 72% humidity and was pleased to see no frosting or other silliness.
Einion
New member
Yes, but as a rule they're not as matt; generally speaking the matter the finish the less contrast you see.Gepzo said:
Since you already have Dullcote and it's one of the best things for this, the simplest fix is to paint accordingly - put in more contrast to begin with.
Einion
