Water effects - advice please!

moonmin82

New member
Hi guys, I am soon to delve into the tricksy world of water effects and was hoping some of you might offer me advice? I hear this technique can be a tad temperamental! I will specifically be using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water and Tamiya clear paints (smoke and clear red).

To cut a long story short, I want to create a creepy carnival hook-a-duck, with the water replaced with blood.

1) Should I tint the water itself (i.e. physically mix Tamiya clear red with the Realistic Water) or simply glaze the surface before adding another layer? Alternatively I could paint the Tamiya clear over the inside surfaces of the water container.

2) When attaching the ducks to the surface should I fix with superglue or embed them in a thin layer of the Realistic Water? I have seen some tutorial videos where this stuff has been used as an adhesive. How do these mediums react to being drilled and pinned? Wondered if it might go opaque or crack if I was go down the pinning route?

Any advice would be welcome! I intend to sit the ducks on the water surface before applying a further layer of Realistic Water. That way they will be floating rather than sat unrealistically on the surface.

Anyway, thanks for reading. Here are my ducks!

MadClownMiniatures-hook-a-duckducks-22-Feb-2015_zpsa45deb39.jpg


[Edit] You can find my diorama thread here: http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?56356-Mad-Clown-Miniatures-Diorama
 
Last edited:

ten ball

Active member
Big tip mate, make bloody sure the base is water tight before pouring the resin- the resin has a mind if its own (ask skel).
When adding any ink colour just add a TINY spot then mix well , you will only need a spot.
When hard it can be sanded, drilled etc
 

moonmin82

New member
Thanks Ten! I am making the bucket from plasticard but intend to use plenty of green stuff to seal it nice and tight.

When adding any ink colour just add a TINY spot then mix well , you will only need a spot.

Would you pour the resin and then add a dab of pigment (and stir) in situ? ...or mix with pigment in a little jug and then pour?
 

ten ball

Active member
Mix in a tub first then pour.
You will need some fine sand paper to file down the sides after snapping the plasta card off. Hard work but worth it, a thin coat of gloss varnish at the very end will get back the transparency.
When removing the sides it will look terrible, dont worry this is normal and will take time to get smooth.
I wager 50p that it leaks lol ;)
 

SkelettetS

New member
hell yeah, when you think the base is water tight, just go over the base and seal it 2-3 more times. bloody h*ll resin! :silly:
 

moonmin82

New member
Thanks guys. Found some useful info' online too. Paints used should be 100% acrylic as vinyl additives can react adversely with the water compound.
 
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