Water Effects: Who here has used them?

[Sproket]

Why?
Every seen tallow candles being made?
Use the same principle to make saliva strings.
Just use a long straight head hair, dip in attach to sticky tape and place somewhere were it can hang vertically to dry. Voila, stringy dribbles.

I've done something very simillar to create drips of poison on a Hellion's whip.
I put a tutorial on my blog here http://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2011/07/step-by-step-guide-to-adding-slime-and.html
Hope it's usefull.

 

[airhead]

Needs some whitecaps I'd say to sell the effect of rushing water. I mentioned how I go about it in the post up there, but there's so many ways. If you mix up the stuff you end up using as white "foam" effect, and stir it vigorously you can get some interesting foamy/frothy bubbles to appear which looks pretty nice. Test some things like mixing baking soda with PVA, white paint with PVA or even water effects, matte medium with white ink etc...the sky's (or rather the water's) the limit to how you can approach that effect.

Almost forgot to say, it's all about the placement of that effect to really give the impression of rapid flowing/splashy water. Examples are everywhere on the net (model railroad sites especially) of great places to place your whitewater. Usually around areas of blockage and debris, flowing in the direction that the water is meant to be flowing, to give the effect that the foam is gathering up on the blockage, and trailing downstream from there.

Flat brush with a bit of white paint or even better a bit of plaster of paris mixed thin.
Just touch the right spots and you can make the water 'foam'.

A hairdryer gently might help the white center finally cure out. Otherwise, a bit of a poke with a needle to let air in and moisture out.

Some underpainting usually helps the water look a bit more real.

 

[kathrynloch]

Well, it's clearer today so definitely still curing. I'll leave it be. I really won't have time for it until this weekend anyway. By then it should have full cure and I'll be able to see how the "foam" will look.

 

[Alexandra]

Well, it's clearer today so definitely still curing. I'll leave it be. I really won't have time for it until this weekend anyway. By then it should have full cure and I'll be able to see how the "foam" will look.

If it didn't cure in 24 hours it won't cure, period. I'm almost sure that the base products you are using are from the polymers family. See if it's based on a polyester compound or epoxy, just to be sure. If it is, you can finish cure it with an application of a thin layer of nail polish remover ( acetone ), because it will force the reaction though the end.

 

[airhead]

If it didn't cure in 24 hours it won't cure, period. I'm almost sure that the base products you are using are from the polymers family. See if it's based on a polyester compound or epoxy, just to be sure. If it is, you can finish cure it with an application of a thin layer of nail polish remover ( acetone ), because it will force the reaction though the end.

I don't think so... it is water based - basically elmer's glue. The outer layer cures and skins over - that does not let the lower stuff evaporate and cure. A few needle holes in it to let more air in/water out is about the only cure.

You're thinking of two part resins. True, if they don't cure, not much you can do - either epoxy based or polyester based. There are some tricks to get them to skin - such as you mentioned using acetone or another fine layer mixed hot.

 

[Alexandra]

I don't think so... it is water based - basically elmer's glue. The outer layer cures and skins over - that does not let the lower stuff evaporate and cure. A few needle holes in it to let more air in/water out is about the only cure.

You're thinking of two part resins. True, if they don't cure, not much you can do - either epoxy based or polyester based. There are some tricks to get them to skin - such as you mentioned using acetone or another fine layer mixed hot.

Your quite right! If it's water based, that's the best solution...

Were I live, we only have one or two suppliers of this kind of stuff, witch means it comes expensive. So, we usually go with the industry standard process, witch usually takes more time to master but you can do a ton of things with it. That and the material supplier is always open to give advice

Another material that can be use is wood white glue. It is crystal when dry, cheap, and begins to dry from the inside out. The only thing is that you may have to do it in layers and play with the drying time to get the consistence were you need it. Every brand is different do, so time to experience which one suits you is advised. Do not use quick dry glues, because it's really quick.

Cheers

 

[Einion]

Another material that can be use is wood white glue. It is crystal when dry, cheap, and begins to dry from the inside out.

Don't think so mate!

Dries much like PVA in my experience, which is no surprise really :smile-big:

Einion

 

[kathrynloch]

Well, the good news is that it's almost completely clear now. So my plan of finishing it up this weekend is still on schedule. I should be able to post photos by Saturday or Sunday. So keep your fingers crossed!