Watered down advice

Kinetic man

New member
I need to start by saying I water down all my paints to some extent. Even my metallics, otherwise I find that everything is a bit thick for my tastes. That being said, I water down before dry brushing too.
Now, when I was helping my friend paint some of his minis he asked why I diluted my dry brush-destined paint. I looked into it and I can\'t really find any info on this either so I want to ask the experts here, am I just wasting my time doing this?
 

Sauce Devil

New member
I\'m no expert but I water down paint for drybrushing less than I would for normal painting. The \"higher\" a highlight is, the less I dilute it but for shading I do the opposite and water it down the most for the deepest shading.
 

lizcam

New member
I do because I live in a desert and if I don\'t before I get a \"load\" of paint to the end of drybrushing it will strat to dry and come off the brush in big lumps. Watering down smooths the paint a bit.

That being said I don\'t water down any where near as much as I would for regular painting. But then I don\'t drybrush that much any more.
 

Kinetic man

New member
Originally posted by lizcam
I do because I live in a desert and if I don\'t before I get a \"load\" of paint to the end of drybrushing it will strat to dry and come off the brush in big lumps. Watering down smooths the paint a bit.

That being said I don\'t water down any where near as much as I would for regular painting. But then I don\'t drybrush that much any more.

I do pretty much the same thing. If I water down as much as I do with normal painting I find that not only will it take an eternity before any noticeable difference is made, but it\'s more likely to end up in the details and defeat the purpose.
So I usually only dilute to about 50% of what I normally do.

Basically I just wanted to make sure that I\'m not doing things in triplicate so to speak since I\'m enough of a perfectionist over my minis already and desperately need to make some progress!
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Kinetic man
Now, when I was helping my friend paint some of his minis he asked why I diluted my dry brush-destined paint. I looked into it and I can\'t really find any info on this either so I want to ask the experts here, am I just wasting my time doing this?
Not necessarily. But it depends a lot on the specific paint and on how exactly you drybrush (the type of brush, how heavily you press, that sort of thing).

Why not try a side-by-side comparison? If you find your original method works better stick with it, if there\'s no difference then you know you don\'t have to :)

Einion
 

Bigdennis52

New member
Some people like to water down their paints in one manner or another before doing any project, this helps the shelf-life of the paint

in regards to dry brushing, it shouldnt really matter much, since you are going to be doing this technique only to top off the model until you find the desired look you wish to find

Also I have heard some people say that if they do not water down their paints in one manner, they appear chalky.
 

Kinetic man

New member
Originally posted by Bigdennis52
Some people like to water down their paints in one manner or another before doing any project, this helps the shelf-life of the paint

in regards to dry brushing, it shouldnt really matter much, since you are going to be doing this technique only to top off the model until you find the desired look you wish to find

Also I have heard some people say that if they do not water down their paints in one manner, they appear chalky.

Personally I don\'t dilute anything while it\'s in the well. I tried this once and wasn\'t happy with the results. And not only that but sometimes I find you need thicker paint on hand to do little details like eyes or picking out certain small raised areas.
Again that\'s just me but with with the diluted paint it took multiple dabs to achieve the same effect which was essentially just a line or a dot.

I know what you mean about chalkiness though, but since I use mostly metallics on my Necrons I don\'t run into that problem as much as some. I hear a wash or a glaze can help fix that though.
 

Rodnik

New member
The question of thinning paints applies to several other painting topics as well.....


So, the question---\"Why do I thin my paint?\"

First, the answer isn\'t \"because everyone does it\"----

The only reason you do *anything* to the paint, or your painting tools, is to accomplish a specific goal. I\'ll explain via example:

Result: The basecoat shows brushstrokes.
Fix: Thin your paint and/or work wet-to-wet with your brush.

Result: My glazes are splotchy.
Fix: They are losing surface tension. Add some binder. You can effectively add binder by removing water---or by adding a medium. It\'s all relative and depends on what you\'re trying to accomplish.

Result: My washes won\'t recede properly.
Fix: Break the surface tension with an additive. Add water or flow improver--whichever you like better, of course.

Desired outcome: I need the paint to be transparent for a layer.

--Thin the paint to the point it\'s transparent.

Desired outcome: I want to cloak to be blue.

--Pick up a blue bottle of paint.

Desired outcome: I want my blue paint to be transparent for layering.

Thin the blue paint.


Anyway...I know some of those are a bit facetious, but the point in fact is this:

If you want to hammer a nail, why do you use the flattened head as opposed to the claw?

Because it works better that way.


That should be the same reason you do anything to your paint or to your tools----because it works better when you do.

The trick is this---\"working better\" is subjective. That is, it has to work better from YOUR perspective, not someone else\'s.

Cheers,
Kev
 

Kinetic man

New member
Well Rodnik you make a lot of good points, and I guess my question was actually more orientated toward finding out if it was an efficient technique.
But like I said in my last post, I refuse to thin for everything. It\'s just illogical.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Originally posted by Kinetic man
I refuse to thin for everything. It\'s just illogical.
Sorry but that doesn\'t work.
Thinning paints is the difference between
THIS
And
THIS
(Thanks Jarhead)
Thinner paints DO take more coats but allow far greater control and quality results.
If you look at the recent Golden Deamon winners in Europe those figures cannot have achieved the level of quality with undiluted paint. Exactly the same for the \'States.
Thin your paints and work with multiple coats and you will find a far more effective means of producing competition level minis.
 

Kinetic man

New member
Originally posted by Dragonsreach
Originally posted by Kinetic man
I refuse to thin for everything. It\'s just illogical.
Sorry but that doesn\'t work.
Thinning paints is the difference between
THIS
And
THIS
(Thanks Jarhead)
Thinner paints DO take more coats but allow far greater control and quality results.
If you look at the recent Golden Deamon winners in Europe those figures cannot have achieved the level of quality with undiluted paint. Exactly the same for the \'States.
Thin your paints and work with multiple coats and you will find a far more effective means of producing competition level minis.

Well, mine don\'t really fall into either of those categories since I have yet to master (or for that matter get good at) blending. Granted, if it\'s a a more \"special\" unit I\'ll take the time to paint it to a competition standard but I don\'t see a need to use multiple coats for every little thing all the time.
While the times when I do use undiluted are infrequent, I still do it now and then. Like when I pick out the eyes om my warriors; I find that watered down scorpion green looks thin even in such a small amount and creates a dim effect, while a dot of the same thing straight from the well does the job fine without causing my mini to look like that first pic.

Hopefully I\'ll get some pictures up soon here (my camera is still currently out of commission).
 

cybersquig

Dangerous when wet
even when doing the eyes I find that several small coats work better than one undiluted one. Yes you won\'t get the finished effect on the first pass, but if you make a slight mistake it\'s less obvious, and may not even need retouching but if you are using it undiluted, the tone of the mini is set right then and there, given that people start from the eyes and work out when looking at a mini (unless you\'re directing their attention elsewhere, but that\'s a whole other story!)
 

Kinetic man

New member
Originally posted by cybersquig
even when doing the eyes I find that several small coats work better than one undiluted one. Yes you won\'t get the finished effect on the first pass, but if you make a slight mistake it\'s less obvious, and may not even need retouching but if you are using it undiluted, the tone of the mini is set right then and there, given that people start from the eyes and work out when looking at a mini (unless you\'re directing their attention elsewhere, but that\'s a whole other story!)

Luckily doing eyes on Necrons is easy, just that little dot of green. But when I do more complex I usually do the standard blending.
Oh, and I don\'t dilute for terrain. :)
 
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