m0nolith said:
Two: do i have to put gloss varnish on it or can it be flat varnish
You don't have to varnish at all in fact, but if you use specific techniques and want them to work as you've seen in demos where a gloss overcoat was used it's actually necessary, not optional I'm afraid.
A lot depends on how you intend to use the oil paint though - washes, glazes, thick paint brushed out, stippling, scumbling, drybrushing, a combination. Some of these really need to be done on a gloss-varnished layer to work right, but others actually work better on a matt surface (in which case no varnishing at all is required, long as you're not heavy handed).
m0nolith said:
Three: Has anyone here tried Abteilung 502 oils by MIG and how is it comparable to Windsor & Newton oils when it comes to miniatures and kits.
I'm generally against buying hobby paints as a rule, since they're nearly invariably overpriced for what you get. But the Abteilung paints aren't pricey I believe so they may represent a decent buy.
I would recommend you do at least one or two like-for-like comparisons with other paints though, to check the qualities.
It's extremely unlikely they're as highly pigmented as the artists' oils from W&N (or any other reasonably high-end brand) but saying that they don't have to be to be usable. Many of the cheaper regular oil paints, the student or studio ranges like W&N's Winton or D-R Georgian are actually okay quality, and way way cheaper than artists' oils.
The colours that are made using the cheapest pigments are generally the best quality in cheaper paint ranges because they can include a fair amount of pigment and keep to their price point. So white, black and all the earth colours - which are handily most of the colours we'd want to use for weathering - can be fairly decent.
Taking the below point out of order because it relates to the above:
m0nolith said:
First: If i want to make a filter effect with acrylic based color such as Tamiya or Vallejo , do I use the oils before or after the varnish (im guessing its before)
Sorry you'll have to define exactly what you mean by 'filter' since I won't pay any attention to that term :messed: Seriously though, filter is just another word for a glaze - a transparent layer used to tint or slightly colour the paint underneath. That's how the term is usually meant.
You can use any acrylic-type paint over the oil effects, but it's usually done once a flat overcoat has been applied. There are then no adhesion problems (or beading) which you can get otherwise.
Glazing is actually one of the things that oils are particularly well suited to, so if you're going to use oil paint anyway I'd recommend trying to use the oil paint for those effects as much as you can, take maximum advantage of the medium. But you do need a larger palette than just white, black and earths if you want to use the oils for this purpose; to a degree this is also true anyway for some of the other techniques you might want to use them for.
Einion
