what glue for plastic GW miniatures
- Thread starter Dekulus
- Start date
moratgurgeh
New member
I've been using some gorilla glue brand superglue. It's pretty awesome.
freakinacage
Well-known member
With wicksy on this one, cheapo stuff works a treat. Pound shop stuff is brill for all sorts but is a little thin
Dekulus
New member
so something like this is ok ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-SUPER-...ue_Tape_EH&hash=item4601658507#ht_2186wt_1163
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-SUPER-...ue_Tape_EH&hash=item4601658507#ht_2186wt_1163
moratgurgeh
New member
Why not just head down to your local market and pick some up? Superglue is superglue, for the most part.
freakinacage
Well-known member
Mine sells this stuff:
not bad for £1
nels0nmac
Member
For plastic pieces I use 'Liquid Weld' (AKA Dichloromethane). It is a solvent that has a water like consistancy that melts plastics really well. The way to use it is to hold the pieces you want to glue together and then use a paint brush to wipe the glue over the join line. If you can't hold the pieces and a brush you can just put a blob of glue on one surface and then push the two bits together.
Dichlo evaporates pretty quickly - which means it dries quickly and also doesn't leave any blobby bits of glue that have to be cleaned off once dry. Because it's not a superglue there is also no chance of being permanently stuck to the model.
Dichlo evaporates pretty quickly - which means it dries quickly and also doesn't leave any blobby bits of glue that have to be cleaned off once dry. Because it's not a superglue there is also no chance of being permanently stuck to the model.
No love for poly cement, from anyone else...?
DCM works does it? I'll have to try that....i have a half a winchester of the stuff i use for stripping.
RuneBrush
New member
Super glue is good, but I'm old school - poly cement all the way for plastic's. It's engineered for gluing plastic and melts the two surfaces so that they actually bind together. This also means that if the join isn't a perfect fit, it will still secure it in place.
I only ever use the bottles with needle nozzle now - the tubes are a nightmare.
I only ever use the bottles with needle nozzle now - the tubes are a nightmare.
Egrimm van Horstmann
New member
I also use the bottles with needles. But make sure, you clean the needle after usage. Otherwise you end up removing the needle and are unable to do precise work. For the super Glue, I experienced different qualities. I got one from a 99ct shop which was terrible. It was not strong enough to bind properly. Nowadays I'm using GaleForce9 Super Glue. Thicker consistency, but good price/power ratio.
Egrimm
Egrimm
Einion
New member
Superglue works well, and my experience is the same as some above - many of the super-cheap types like you find in a Pound/Euro shop are fine (literally as good or better than name-brand stuff). The type I'm using at the moment also has the best shelf life I can remember for superglue in a tube, and that's with the humidity here regularly topping 85% these days. This indicates the cap fits a heck of a lot better than the Loctite one!
Anyone who wants to go the solvent route, one thing to try is a strong liquid paint stripper or brush cleaner/conditioner, e.g. Rustin's brush restorer; these can contain one or more solvents that dissolve many harder plastics like styrene. Something like this is likely to be waaaay cheaper than any commercial plastic glue.
Einion
Anyone who wants to go the solvent route, one thing to try is a strong liquid paint stripper or brush cleaner/conditioner, e.g. Rustin's brush restorer; these can contain one or more solvents that dissolve many harder plastics like styrene. Something like this is likely to be waaaay cheaper than any commercial plastic glue.
Einion
BPI
New member
I use EMA Plastic Weld Cement...
http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/57ml-plastic-weld-cement-p-26493.html
...it's a watery consistency and I apply it with an old brush that's no longer fit even for basework, far easier than trying to squeeze the right amount out of a nozzle
The stuff smells pretty bad but does the job brilliantly. Oh, and it's cheap!
Presumably an alt. brand to NelsonMac
http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/57ml-plastic-weld-cement-p-26493.html
...it's a watery consistency and I apply it with an old brush that's no longer fit even for basework, far easier than trying to squeeze the right amount out of a nozzle
The stuff smells pretty bad but does the job brilliantly. Oh, and it's cheap!Presumably an alt. brand to NelsonMac
nels0nmac
Member
I use EMA Plastic Weld Cement...
http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/57ml-plastic-weld-cement-p-26493.html
...it's a watery consistency and I apply it with an old brush that's no longer fit even for basework, far easier than trying to squeeze the right amount out of a nozzle
Presumably an alt. brand to NelsonMac
Nope.... that's the stuff I use... although I tend to get the larger tins and then decant smaller amounts into one of those EMA bottles. Works out a little bit cheaper that way. I have seen large containers of Dichlo on Ebay ( sold as paint stripper) which are a lot cheaper but I haven't been brave enough to try them out in case it doesn't work as well and I'm left with a lot of nasty fluid that I can't use.
And yes it smells pretty bad because it's not particularly health for you....incidentally Dichlo is not that different from Trichloromethane - or to give it it's more common name chloroform. So don't go spilling large amounts and expect to be standing upright without a lot of ventilation.:laugh:
