What is this surface texture?

TomasP

New member
Here's a close up shot of a mini I'm currently working on...

View attachment 7442

question is :

Is this surface texture normal? is it exagerated due to paint? is it bad preparation (should I have rubbed it down with fine wire wool more?) or is it just a 'quality' of metal mini's?

It looks quite smooth from a foot away...

Thanks
 

finn17

New member
Really hard to tell from that pic...wtf is it anyway?

Scale is really crucial in determining the cause of these things as that could be a detail from a 28mm mini or a 150mm mini. If, as I suspect, it's from a 28mm mini the only observation I would make is that you have a fecking good macro setting on your very excellent camera:D
 

kathrynloch

New member
I'll wager it's the figure he's working on in his WIP thread. Which means he's got the macro setting from...well...you get the point.

One thing it probably is - the primer. Think about how it's applied, tiny droplets sprayed through the air that land on the mini. Of course it's not going to be smooth or even, especially up close. What primer are you using?

This is a huge problem, no matter how good you are at priming, in the model horse hobby. The larger scale horses show this and add pigment and it becomes obvious. So we sock out the model. :D It's a play on words. Sack out or sacking out a horse is a term used to "de-condition" the horse from it's flight response. It's frowned upon now because the horse can injure itself. But the idea of getting a horse accustomed to scary things is still very much used. Anyways, to sock out a model, after the primer has cured 24 hours, take two old cotton socks, turn them inside out and put them on your hands like sock puppets. Then you rub the model until it's completely smooth. This evens out your primer and if you're working in pigments stops grain issues.

For minis, it's more difficult because the sock can get caught on the fine detail. I get the larger areas with the socks, for medium areas or areas with raised detail I take the socks off my hands and take a tiny corner and rub lightly usually in one direction away from the snagging detail. The small areas I get with cotton swabs. Usually you can do this while chillin' out and watching TV or whatever. Except for the really tiny spots of course.

If your primer is going on gritty or furry it's probably due to heat/humidity or not shaking the can enough. But small uneven areas like your picture is simply the nature of the beast when working with an aerosol. Can't change physics unfortunately. But the socking out the model will take care of it.
 

TomasP

New member
Yes - I'd not considered primer - it's GW skull white - hmmm, I'd maybe thought my days of painting metal were over and the era of finecast had a reason to be ushered in.
 

finn17

New member

Wowsers!

I'd just say it's what you get with such extreme magnification:) Highly polished metal looks like the Andes under a microscope.

Bearing in mind the original was probably sculpted in GS, then a mould taken etc etc the resultant cast is never likely to have a 'perfect' finish.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
If the bare metal was smooth (you checked?), then it is probably a bad primer job.

It bears repeating. That GW stuff is NOT primer. It is a paint, suitable for undercoating (in some conditions), but why not just prime with a color to avoid another layer of paint.
 

TomasP

New member
If the bare metal was smooth (you checked?), then it is probably a bad primer job.

It bears repeating. That GW stuff is NOT primer. It is a paint, suitable for undercoating (in some conditions), but why not just prime with a color to avoid another layer of paint.

I didn't check in detail after making it shiny - I didn't realise it may be necessary.

But what's the difference then between the GW spray and say the tamiya 'surface primer'? and is it common and just as effective to just airbrush a really light series of 'dust' base colour coats?
 

TomasP

New member
Wowsers!

I'd just say it's what you get with such extreme magnification:) Highly polished metal looks like the Andes under a microscope.

Bearing in mind the original was probably sculpted in GS, then a mould taken etc etc the resultant cast is never likely to have a 'perfect' finish.

are plastics and resin not as / less susceptible to this then?
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Primer, by definition, has certain bonding agents to provide a better bond between dissimilar materials - in our case it would be metals (below) to paint (above) or plastic to paint.

Most paints have binders in them to adhere to previous layers of paint, but most paints do not have any other agents to promote bonding to dissimilar materials (etching agents for example).

This is why some paints are more prone to rub off of a mini if you touch the mini while painting. A good primer should latch onto the metal in the mini and provide enough tooth for subsequent layers of paint to bond as well.
 

kathrynloch

New member
Airhead has a great explanation but add to it that primer (at least the good stuff) helps your paint go on smoother and more evenly. If you try primer vs the GW stuff you'll notice a difference in application of paint - or at least I did.

With you being in the UK you can probably still get Tamiya primer (I love the stuff) we can't in the US. I've also tested and like Dupli-color Sandable Primer (available at auto stores at least in the US) and Vallejo Aerosol Primer. Vallejo isn't quite as nice as the other two because it's less forgiving, it will go on thick and run if you're not careful. But for coverage, smoothness, and handling humid spraying conditions it's top notch. I've heard reports Tamiya can get nasty in super high humidity but I haven't experienced it and in the Swamps of Southeast Texas I should. lol! I've only had it give me fits once and I'm pretty sure it's because it had been sitting for a long time and I didn't shake the can well enough.
 

funnymouth

Active member
primers are over rated - its just something to spend money on for a nominal "improvement," as far as im concerned. i just paint on a base coat, and get to work. i dont seal them either....
ive never had a problem, and im pretty rough with my minis on the game table.
 
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