what puttys to use?
- Thread starter Larre
- Start date
Einion
New member
Oh man, there are as many answers to that as there are putties on the market (actually more, since some people use more than one in sequence, or blended together).
You can but it\'s pretty much up to you.
Certainly some things are easier to do, or come out better, when done in a given putty (or type of putty). GS for example is often said to be great for hair and flowing details, not so suitable for sharp-edged things like armour because it\'s a bit soft and can\'t be carved or sanded. But of course there are plenty of commercial greens done in GS only (hence the term!) Some of the French stuff seems to be done just using Premo or another polymer clay.
Personally I do think that it\'s a good principle to sculpt in something that you can do the entire figure in (or pretty close) but there are plenty of people who enjoy mixing putties, using each for their best features, on a single model, e.g. BS for the armour, GS for the robes and hair and MagicSculp or Milliput for the body, just because they prefer to work that way. And while I like to sculpt in MagicSculp only myself I\'ll use GS as well for certain things if I feel like it at the time (and also for when Kneadatite is the better choice - when flexibility is needed in the finished thing).
Einion
Roger Bunting
New member
@Einion. Have you used ProCreate, and how does that compare to other products?
Avelorn
Sven Jonsson
Wwll I think a good start is Green stuff and milliput.
Green stuff for organic shapes, milliput for weapons, a mixture of green stuff and milliput for armour with sharp edges. You can do sharp edges with GS as well of course but I find it easier if you can sand and file it afterwads which you can do easily with milliput and milliput + green stuff mixture.
I\'ve used clays you bake in ovens as well with good result and for larger works it\'s far more cheap. I like super sculpey for example, unfortunately I don\'t have an oven atm.
EDIT:
@Roger bunting: in my experience it\'s easier to blend, slightly easier to shape. But the working time is actually shorter then GS despite what they say, which is a big negative.
Edit2:
forgot one thing.. it\'s sandable, very useful!!
Green stuff for organic shapes, milliput for weapons, a mixture of green stuff and milliput for armour with sharp edges. You can do sharp edges with GS as well of course but I find it easier if you can sand and file it afterwads which you can do easily with milliput and milliput + green stuff mixture.
I\'ve used clays you bake in ovens as well with good result and for larger works it\'s far more cheap. I like super sculpey for example, unfortunately I don\'t have an oven atm.
EDIT:
@Roger bunting: in my experience it\'s easier to blend, slightly easier to shape. But the working time is actually shorter then GS despite what they say, which is a big negative.
Edit2:
forgot one thing.. it\'s sandable, very useful!!Bengoodall
New member
Side note, where is milliput available online, internationally, I cant find it here in france.
(not saying much, everything is like a needle in a hay stack here)
(not saying much, everything is like a needle in a hay stack here)
Einion
New member
No, \'fraid not. I won\'t be either, since I haven\'t read anything about it that would make it seem an important improvement over what I have available to me now (mainly MagicSculp, Apoxie Sculpt, Kneadatite and a few other things).
At the right (low) temperature all two-part putties can be heated.
If you\'ll be baking at the temperature used to set polymer clay (many recommend longer baking at lower temps for better results anyway) then you\'ll be fine, as long as you\'re careful not to have an air bubble in the putty or under the putty.
FWIW I would recommend you try MagicSculp if you\'re looking for a putty of this type. It\'s better in nearly every way IMO.
Einion
Dragon Forge Design
New member
The Red box..
As for puttys.. noting really beats Green and brown Kneedatite.. its what a majority of figures are sculpted from.
Einion
New member
These?
The major sources I know for sculpting supplies are all in the US. Worth considering since the USD isn\'t strong at the moment. But if you really want somewhere in Europe there\'s Sylmasta, but then you\'re dealing with Sterling.
MS is better than all of them
But Silver-Grey is generally considered better for fine detail than the Grey-Green, Superfine White better than the Silver-Grey.Einion
thx guys I\'ll remember that ^^
I just ordered some GS and BS and platicard from a site that stores their products in sweden
so it\'ll only take a couple of days to get
if I was ordering from the rest of europe it would take weeks, and outside of euorope maby months
but GS and BS are quite similar, so I\'ll go with the less advanced method xD
thx again
// Larre
I\'ll remember that ^^I just ordered some GS and BS and platicard from a site that stores their products in sweden
so it\'ll only take a couple of days to get
if I was ordering from the rest of europe it would take weeks, and outside of euorope maby months
but GS and BS are quite similar, so I\'ll go with the less advanced method xD
thx again
// Larre
Avelorn
Sven Jonsson
You can buy clayshapers/colourshapers in many hobby- and artstores. If you don\'t have any suitable place in Gotland there is at least one store in Stockholm that supplies them (I bought a few last time I was there) I don\'t remember the name of the store, but if you PM Anders (ritual) The next time you go to Stockholm he can probably give you directions. Your local dentist have most tools you need otherwise.. and if you ask very politely you might get some from him/her.. I did!
While GS and BS and plasticard is a good start I think in the not-so-far future you might need something that is easy sandable and carvable and something you cans easily smooth out with your fingers. The difference between GS and milliput-like compounds is the difference between a gum-like consistency and a clay-like. Milliput, Magic sculpt etc are all used to fix porcelain dolls for example. They have many uses a part from simple sculpting and I also use them to correct casting errors like the small holes you sometimes get (or usually from some companies *cough cough*). You can basically mix water with milliput until the consistency is paint like and paint it over the figure, when you then sand it with fine sandpaper you will get a really smooth finish for painting. Important thought that you sprayprime it to seal it as water can get under the milliput and release chunks of it which is nothing short of a disaster. Other uses are making slate-style rock for bases.
Milliput superfine is what I use, but I can\'t really compare to Magic sculpt as I\'ve never tried it. I think it\'s pretty safe to take Einions word for that it works better and it\'s cheaper too.. Apoxie Sculpt is another interesting product that I haven\'t tried yet.
While GS and BS and plasticard is a good start I think in the not-so-far future you might need something that is easy sandable and carvable and something you cans easily smooth out with your fingers. The difference between GS and milliput-like compounds is the difference between a gum-like consistency and a clay-like. Milliput, Magic sculpt etc are all used to fix porcelain dolls for example. They have many uses a part from simple sculpting and I also use them to correct casting errors like the small holes you sometimes get (or usually from some companies *cough cough*). You can basically mix water with milliput until the consistency is paint like and paint it over the figure, when you then sand it with fine sandpaper you will get a really smooth finish for painting. Important thought that you sprayprime it to seal it as water can get under the milliput and release chunks of it which is nothing short of a disaster. Other uses are making slate-style rock for bases.
Milliput superfine is what I use, but I can\'t really compare to Magic sculpt as I\'ve never tried it. I think it\'s pretty safe to take Einions word for that it works better and it\'s cheaper too..
Apoxie Sculpt is another interesting product that I haven\'t tried yet.