What's up with my metallics??

Trey815

New member
Hello, I haven't posted here much but I have browsed a lot and haven't seen anything addressing this issue I'm facing. I use games workshop metallics and up until recently I haven't had a whole lot of trouble with them. However, about a month or two ago mine started acting funny. As in, when I go to paint, they pool up instead of going on smoothly. I haven't changed primer and I find it hard to believe that four or five different metallics are all bad batches. I live in Southern Georgia so maybe the humidity is effecting the primer? I dunno. Thoughts?
 

Einion

New member
Hiya, this on one mini or more than one? If more than one, were they primed at the same time?

I presume you're getting this with metallics you have used successfully before (because if not, it could be the paint). Anyway, assuming it's not that two possibilities that I can think of: either the primer is a little too smooth or there's a little too much paint on the brush.

Einion
 

Trey815

New member
Thanks for the reply! It's actually been several miniatures all primed at different times. Also, I haven't had any problem with the metallics beforehand. You might be right about the paint being too smooth but I can't figure out why it's suddenly doing this. I've used the same stuff for quite a while now without any trouble and then one day I had to fight the metallics to get a solid coat on something. Thanks again for the reply. I might just try a new primer.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Not shook up enough.

Metalics are the worst about settling out.

It could be you can shake the snot out of them (add a glass bead or bit of metal sprue to add).
Or you've already used them without a good shake and took all the flow enhancer out.

Are you thinning them at all or using them straight from the pot?
What are you using to thin them? Add a drop of dish soap to a pint of thinning water.
 

Trey815

New member
Thanks for the additional input. I always make sure to shake my paint before using it. I haven't tried using a bead or anything though. Also I thin using plain water. Thanks again. I'll definitely try both of those. Need to go find some beads I suppose. :)
 

kathrynloch

New member
Airhead is right, you can shake the devil out of 'em and they'll still have this sludge at the bottom of the pot even if they haven't been sitting around very long. I take a toothpick and loosen the sludge, which is a majority of your pigment value, and then shake the devil out of them some more.

The only other thing it might be is if you touched the mini. Oils from your fingers can cause paints to not adhere.
 

RuneBrush

New member
Airhead is right, you can shake the devil out of 'em and they'll still have this sludge at the bottom of the pot even if they haven't been sitting around very long. I take a toothpick and loosen the sludge, which is a majority of your pigment value, and then shake the devil out of them some more.

The only other thing it might be is if you touched the mini. Oils from your fingers can cause paints to not adhere.

I was actually going to suggest a toothpick too. Once you've disturbed the sludge at the bottom, you'll find it then mixes up with the rest of the paint a lot more easily. Grease from your fingers will also cause paint to do funny things. Because metallic paints are different to regular paints they'll be affected by different conditions.

As you mention in your original post, humidity in the air can make your sprayed undercoat apply with a slightly satin/gloss finish which I have found will affect the paint you put on.

p.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
As you mention in your original post, humidity in the air can make your sprayed undercoat apply with a slightly satin/gloss finish which I have found will affect the paint you put on.
p.
Living so close to Manchester Rainy Damp days are a constant companion.
I've found that certain Primers react differingly to Humidity, GW's Spray "primer" (*) loves the damp and will suck up moisture if you're not careful, Tamiya Fine White primer doesn't like it, but automotive Grey couldn't give a 'rats ass".
A tip I've kinda developed for Rainy/damp day priming is to use a cheap hair dryer over the newly primer figure, not too close and on a low setting. I've found that this helps remove any moisture that the primers absorbed.

There are a couple of things that might help with metallics, Automaton (Sebastian Archer) has a couple of articles about metallics in the Articles area of the site , they are seriously worth looking up, especially about preparation and Burnishing the metals prior to priming. Also consider that GW metalics are the mainstream starting point for mettalics, see if you can find any Vallejo Airbrush Mettallics (Flipping heck I'm starting to sound like an evangelical preacher about them) as they are far smoother and superior.


(* OK GW's Chaos black isn't a primer its just spray acrylic paint)
 

Einion

New member
Dragonsreach said:
...Also consider that GW metalics are the mainstream starting point for mettalics, see if you can find any Vallejo Airbrush Mettallics (Flipping heck I'm starting to sound like an evangelical preacher about them) as they are far smoother and superior.
Just want to add another plug for these. Got a couple a while back, based largely on DR's recommendations in previous threads, and they are the best water-soluble metallics I've used in terms of brilliance and smoothness.

Einion
 

Kretcher

Active member
Just want to add another plug for these. Got a couple a while back, based largely on DR's recommendations in previous threads, and they are the best water-soluble metallics I've used in terms of brilliance and smoothness.

Einion

I agree with Einon, only vallejo AIR I have problems with is gold. it is to much like silver for me. I usually ad some yellow ink for it to become more gold and tint it with either red or green depending on the effect of the gold i want.
 

kathrynloch

New member
There are a couple of things that might help with metallics, Automaton (Sebastian Archer) has a couple of articles about metallics in the Articles area of the site , they are seriously worth looking up, especially about preparation and Burnishing the metals prior to priming. Also consider that GW metalics are the mainstream starting point for mettalics, see if you can find any Vallejo Airbrush Mettallics (Flipping heck I'm starting to sound like an evangelical preacher about them) as they are far smoother and superior.


(* OK GW's Chaos black isn't a primer its just spray acrylic paint)

Just want to add another plug for these. Got a couple a while back, based largely on DR's recommendations in previous threads, and they are the best water-soluble metallics I've used in terms of brilliance and smoothness.

Einion

I agree with Einon, only vallejo AIR I have problems with is gold. it is to much like silver for me. I usually ad some yellow ink for it to become more gold and tint it with either red or green depending on the effect of the gold i want.


hmmmmm this is some pretty high praise - I use Vallejo Game Color metallics - methinks I'm going to try some of the Air metallics when I make my next order.
 

Torn blue sky

New member
I have a question for you, are the minis Resin?
Also, why hadn't I read this sooner...I'm just finishing an Iron Warriors Dred and painting something in (almost) complete metallics has been an utter b*stard! Might need to look into this Vallejo Air metallics business...
 

Trey815

New member
Thanks for all the responses! I tack my minis to soda bottle caps, so I rarely touch them. The miniatures aren't resin. They're plastic high elves. I tried painting some chainmail on some chaos warriors while I was at home and it went on w/o any problems. Home is a state away to the north btw. I used the same primer and the same pot of boltgun. The mini was metal though. Could that effect it?
 

Torn blue sky

New member
I have to say, i've had a few issues recently with releasing agents from resin (more specifically) and some plastics. It hasn't seemed to matter if i'd scrubbed them well with washing up liquid and indeed even primed them well after the fact. Something about them just won't let the paint stick properly. I live in Scotland, so i'm pretty sure it isn't a humidity issue ;) Are these newer batches of minis you were working on?
There's a little trick MoF told me about spraying the minis with satin varninsh after cleaning them and THEN priming it, that i've yet to give a go (still working on something atm). Maybe give that a shot. He's had similar issues with some things.
 

Trey815

New member
Come to think of it, they are relatively new. I know I washed the heck out of those metal miniatures in particular when I got them cause they were absolutely covered in residue. Actually, the lions in my lion chariot took the metallics fine on their shoulder armor and stuff but the riders, primed with the same stuff, same day, same hour, it pools up on. I'm really at a loss. Same color paint as well. I'm going to try a few of the suggestions on here with the glass beads, toothpicks and all. I'll try the varnish thing too. Thank you!
 

Torn blue sky

New member
Kina relieved to hear i'm not the only one having these issues haha! Let us know how the varnish before undercoat works. I'm hoping it'll actually work since it is really annoying!
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
I agree with Einon, only vallejo AIR I have problems with is gold. it is to much like silver for me. I usually ad some yellow ink for it to become more gold and tint it with either red or green depending on the effect of the gold i want.
Yes Initially I had reservations about the Gold and Brass colours. But using Vallejo's Model Colour Transparent Yellow, Orange, Red and Green has made a serious difference to the gold.
I can't call these transparent colours inks as they don't respond like inks and they also don't respond quite like paints. They are not washes or glazes and have some serious vibrancy.
You HAVE to use them incredilby diluted as they are intense in colour, I have a "knock about" shirt that will testify to the permanence of the red. Two years after getting a pin head sized spot on the shirt, it's still as bright as Blood Red.
 
Back To Top
Top