Zab's Damn it to hell! WIP

[Canny]

exciting they are looking good, new skills schwing!

 

[moetle]

I'm glad your posting your testing progress. Less i have to do myself later

 

[Zab]

Learning new skills is fun! And yes my fear induced testing is your gain. So I decided to play with a few new things i got on the weekend...
View attachment 23399
These were interesting. When you mix oil and water you get um, oily colored water. It's fugly on the palette, but goes on nice.
View attachment 23400
Also not pictured is the layer of tamiya smoke i put on first. I LOVE THAT STUFF!. It's going to save me a crap ton of time on the shading of the sleeping chibi cliff :claply:
Then I played with some of the earth pigments that an evil lady convinced me to buy with her WIP thread. OMG are they fun and easy to use and thanks to that lady i have way more pigments from Earth Pigments than i will ever use!!!
View attachment 23401
View attachment 23402
Oh and I have a new best friend for sealing my minis...
View attachment 23403
And last but not least the folks at 5th dimension are doing some kind of goblin horde community project. I have a basic idea of what is going on but not a solid grasp thanks to google translate and it's sketchy German skills. Anyway i got this guy a while ago in ME32 and will clean him and prime him while i work on the skull and wait for stuff to dry...
View attachment 23404
~sigh~ of contentment. :curl-lip:

 

[Chrispy]

Yuck.. Reeves. Unholy cheap paint.. is the DEVIL! But- I've also heard oils do a lot better than acrylic for drybrushing (ability to blend). So that evil, evil company would be a good choice for a beginning kit if you're not up to the $7 a tube W&N water soluble oils.
I've always wondered about the earthtone/ rust dusting kits they have for trains and such. I think I can use ground up chalk pastel for the same effect.
Is the Testors dull lacquer the same as their Dullcote? I got a can of it myself and I'm just waiting for the actual Dullcote to be used up to test and see the difference.

 

[Zab]

Yeah. I can tell reeves is shitty just from how it separates in the tube and how hard it is to mix with the water to make it smooth. It was 7 bucks for 12x 10 ml colors, but I didn't want to get one tube of W&N for the same price just for a test. Honestly, not that impressed with oils. Doesn't seem like anything I can't do with acrylics and water. Nice to have, but not sure I'll use them too much. I wouldn't bother with their dirt/rust kits when you can make your own with pigments and get way more bang for your buck. The testor's stuff has dullcote on the little sku sticker and the dude in the store said it's dullcote, but with a new label. I was surprised because it has a very rubbing alcohol type smell to it that dissipates quickly. It dries quicly too. Like I said, my new sealing buddy.
http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/783441/the-new-testors-dullcote-packaging-or-how-to-confu
AND the internet confirm it so it must be true :arrogant:

 

[Chrispy]

Ah- I still have a bottle of the older stuff then:

Something told me I have to have a black can of Dullcote, so thought the clear top was for satin or gloss for some reason. I just wish they came in the bigger cans.. Maybe it'sa chemical/product thing? I'd pay more for a normal 12oz can.

 

[Zab]

I hear ya. I will be using this stuff for my display minis only. The table top jobs will get thinned vallejo or liquitex through the good ol AB.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Zab; REEVES are the Bottom end of oil paints, really, really poor. W&N Water Soluble much better an easier to work with.

For water staining effects with oils use lots of water, huge amount more than you'd normally expect to and the results improve. Use odourless oil thinners and you can reduce drying time to hairdryer levels, or just overnight in warm dry airing cupboard.
OH and be careful with your brushes they are a good way to mess up sables if you aren't careful....and brushlicking, well you'll only do that once!

 

[Meph]

Water-mixable oil paint... That simply does not compute in my brain. For me that's right up there with genetically modified crops and trying to rub two turtles together underwater to try and start a fire...

 

[Zab]

HA! DR, I don't lick my brushes - much. I think what gets to me about the oils is the extra effort. I have put a varnish on over the subject, apply the oils and then wipe/dab them off and then apply a matte when they dry to kill the shine. In half that time I can just use acrylics, be selective of where I put them and they are done. It feels fiddly and once done the results don't really look that much different from each other. I can appreciate their use on bigger pieces with more detail though - that may be where it would shine. Meph, yeah it looks like an oil and vinegar dressing when mixed. It goes on fine and works as intended, but there is extra brush cleaning and extra steps I just don't fancy. God, I'm such a child with my need for instant gratification, aren't I?

 

[KruleBear]

Ah- I still have a bottle of the older stuff then:

Something told me I have to have a black can of Dullcote, so thought the clear top was for satin or gloss for some reason. I just wish they came in the bigger cans.. Maybe it'sa chemical/product thing? I'd pay more for a normal 12oz can.

Unfortunately ZAB is right. I used up my Dullcote last fall and went to the local model train shop and couldn't find Dullcote in the Testors section. No luck until i ask the clerk and he grabbed the new style can. Seems like a dumb change as the can looks the same as there other laquers and the only differentiation is the sticker on the cap. Hope i do not lose that cap

 

[Zab]

Don't kid. My friend grabbed one of their flat white tints by mistake when he was restoring an old rocking chair, because he lost the caps and all their lacquers and tints have the same label. He actually cried a little. It was disturbing. :excruciating:

 

[moetle]

Don't kid. My friend grabbed one of their flat white tints by mistake when he was restoring an old rocking chair, because he lost the caps and all their lacquers and tints have the same label. He actually cried a little. It was disturbing. :excruciating:

Sad to say, but i have done something like that before. I cried too....after a lot of swearing.

 

[Chrispy]

Only thing I did like that was forget to turn the can of sealer upside down to clean it a bit when I last used it... then got a mini's paint job perfect and it got frosted..

Never again.

I have black construction paper that I test on first now!

 

[Zab]

Ah yes the F word. :curse:It's why Krylon and myself parted ways.

 

[moetle]

Krylon and I have not had a good relationship either. I know a lot of people think its the bee's knees. Same with badger's minitaire paints. I don't know if i got a bad batch or what but the paints are sticky and glossy.

Back on subject, You and the evil lady have inspired me to try some pigments myself.

 

[Zab]

A few years back they changed some of their sealant formulas and ever since they have been inconsistent with the F word. As to the pigments, Katheryn recommended Earth pigments and having tried them i can say they are amazing in terms of selection and price to volume ratio. OBLIGATORY LINK: http://www.earthpigments.com/

 

[Demihuman]

This conversation makes me wonder if I need to always seal. I usually don't seal display pieces. Do i need to?

 

[Zab]

Not at all. The only reason i tend to is because when i use different paints and mediums I get a variety of finishes and need something to even it all out. If i were to do up a display mini and it was all flat and nice i wouldn't seal it at all. Many display painters don't seal their stuff at all.

 

[Chrispy]

This conversation makes me wonder if I need to always seal. I usually don't seal display pieces. Do i need to?

You also have to take into consideration of what you're doing. If you had something that needs to be metallic or glossy, the flat sealer wouldn't make any sense. I think that sealing it helps when airbrushing, because the layers can get so thin and the paint so watered down that if you accidentally spill something it can wipe off your work -and so it "saves" it. When I'm reading Amazing Figure modeller, it's pretty much a given that in the step-by-step articles it's basically, "Spray this, seal. Then do this area, seal". I do notice from minis I've had for ages now that the flatt sealer loves to have dust hang on something fierce.. but then my minis that weren't sealed have faded. So caveat sealer.