City fight Imperial Guard

ah yeah man I knew that, I just wanted something to break up the sea of white, black and grey lol, I had tried silver at first but it really didnt show up that well so I decdied to go for gold - do you think its a good, or bad idea?
 

Meph

Cat-herder Extraordinaire
Oh, I think it looks cool. The copper suits it nicely actually. But just the sheer amount of work for all those rivets on àll those tanks.... :S

Why not break up the large surfaces with maybe a large decal, freehand, or an icon using masking tape? Maybe even some large numbers would go a long way.
 
cool thanks meph, i was planning to put some numbers on the red/white areas already - I think ill stick with the colouring on the rivets, if only to test my sanity lol ! I want to kind of wash between them so it looks weathered, any advice on how I might go about doing that? Kind of like this:
http://image.shutterstock.com/displ...f-the-old-metal-tank-with-rivets-12019531.jpg
with rust/weathering lines flowing down from them, sorry its hard to describe and that image is not 100% what I mean
 
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Bloodhowl

Active member
cool thanks meph, i was planning to put some numbers on the red/white areas already - I think ill stick with the colouring on the rivets, if only to test my sanity lol ! I want to kind of wash between them so it looks weathered, any advice on how I might go about doing that? Kind of like this:
http://image.shutterstock.com/displ...f-the-old-metal-tank-with-rivets-12019531.jpg
with rust/weathering lines flowing down from them, sorry its hard to describe and that image is not 100% what I mean

Use very thin paint or GW wash and paint the streaks on with a fine detail brush. You want the paint very thin to keep the stain transparent. Apply multiple coats until you get the look you want. Did I mention to keep the paint thin?

Color is a whole other matter. Use black for oil, red-brown or brown for rust or hydraulic fluid, turquoise/green for verdigris...
 
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Meph

Cat-herder Extraordinaire
Nono, I get ya. That effect is actually easier done than said. You'll be needing Burnt umber oil paint for that and odorless modeling turpentine.
Before you do this stage (after highlighting, shading washes, drybrushing, decals etc etc) you'll best have to seal your model with satin or gloss varnish for protection. A thin layer, no need for heavy duty varnish yet.

Then it's just a matter of carefully dabbing on some Burnt Umber with a brush, maybe thinned with some turpentine and gently make the streaks. (use very little paint, oil paints are very strong in pigmentation) That will give you a decent, if basic, effect. To give it that extra blast from the spice weasel, you'll have to let it dry for a while, and then 'moisten' it a bit again using some sprayed on turpentine with an airbrush, but it can be done with a brush as well, and then 'feather' the effect with a brush.
That's the cool thing with oil paint, it's not permanent unless you seal it with spray on varnish. So you can adjust and correct until you're happy with it, and then seal it.

You can also do it by using heavily thinned acrylic paints or inks but the effect will take longer to build u^nicely and once dry, there's no going back.

Do not be daunted by oil paints, they're easier used than talked about. I kid not. They're a revelation when it comes to detailing and even black outlining. It's magical, magical stuff.
 
cool thanks BloodHowl, I will give that a bash at some stage this week hopefully, depends how long it takes to get those damn rivets done lol. I am a patient man though . . .
 
Nono, I get ya. That effect is actually easier done than said. You'll be needing Burnt umber oil paint for that and odorless modeling turpentine.
Before you do this stage (after highlighting, shading washes, drybrushing, decals etc etc) you'll best have to seal your model with satin or gloss varnish for protection. A thin layer, no need for heavy duty varnish yet.

Then it's just a matter of carefully dabbing on some Burnt Umber with a brush, maybe thinned with some turpentine and gently make the streaks. (use very little paint, oil paints are very strong in pigmentation) That will give you a decent, if basic, effect. To give it that extra blast from the spice weasel, you'll have to let it dry for a while, and then 'moisten' it a bit again using some sprayed on turpentine with an airbrush, but it can be done with a brush as well, and then 'feather' the effect with a brush.
That's the cool thing with oil paint, it's not permanent unless you seal it with spray on varnish. So you can adjust and correct until you're happy with it, and then seal it.

You can also do it by using heavily thinned acrylic paints or inks but the effect will take longer to build u^nicely and once dry, there's no going back.

Do not be daunted by oil paints, they're easier used than talked about. I kid not. They're a revelation when it comes to detailing and even black outlining. It's magical, magical stuff.
cool tahnks Meph, I have not used oil paints on mini's before so that does seem daunting to be honest, I will definitely think about that though - cheers!
 

Meph

Cat-herder Extraordinaire
Eagle-eye Bloodhowl has done it again! Don't bother hiding yer women and children, he''ll find them anyway! :D
 
lol guys, sharp sight there Bloodhowl, I had totally missed that! They do look awful now you have drawn my eye to them ! Thanks for pointing that out ! I will cut out some circular card tonight . . .
 

paintingpauper

New member
Flipping hell! Your crazy dude! They really make your Baneblade stand out though. I noticed you even painted the tiny ones on the hatch on the back of the sponson. Mad man!
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
You missed one. Bottom picture, bottom panel second from left, fourth rivet from the left.


And yes, I'm kidding.
 
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