Bailey03's WIP

Bailey03

Well-known member
Yeah, for fantasy single and sci-fi single is just says 28 to 40mm. For historical single is adds in the 'or 1/35 scale' so I should be able to enter 54mm figures. I know a number of historical entries from past years have been 28mm but I believe I've seen 54mm figures there too. That's just guesswork as there's no scale in the picture. But take the 1st and 3rd place historical single entries from 2014, they look more like 54mm sculpts than 28mm ones to me. Same with the 1st place for historical squad.
 
Couldn't really tell from your response, but you do know Skel is just being sarcastic about the skulls, right? Crazy guy tells everyone to put skulls on their bases. :)
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Bailey really like the post backdrop to the figure, just has that ambiance.

Now a suggestion, historically iron was reserved for hardwearing tools and weapons, buildings and wooden posts like that were held together with wooden dowels and wedges adding a couple of those to the woodwork would give a touch of "authenticity" to the whole scene.
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
BFK, yeah, I know. Although that doesn't mean I won't do it anyway. There are plenty of skulls and skeletons in medieval art so if I do a coat of arms and I can come up with a cool design that involved a skull, then why not? Although for this particular project odds are I'd go with a simpler pattern if anything. This is set in the early middle ages. If it were later and in a big city, then a fancier design would make more sense.

Dragonsreach, great point. I'll have to do a little internet research and see if I can find some pictures showing how that all would work. If I can get a good picture of how it should look then I'll definitely try to add those details. Thanks!
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Ha, well I like the idea... just not sure it's right for this project. I'm definitely filing it away for future use on something.

Thanks, 10!
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I still had two parts to add to the figure, his dagger and shield. I spent time on both this weekend. I started with the rear of the shield, adding a wood texture and painting the hand. Then the cloth covering for the front. The main color is a 4 to 1 mix of Bone Shadow and Olive Drab. For the shadows I used a 4 to 1 mix of Blackened Brown and Ritterlich Blue. So most of those are colors that have already been used in a number of places on this figure. Now I need to add on some design work. I'm thinking a pair of wolves. I found a couple examples on period artwork, so I'm trying to adapt the designs for the shield. I'm still in the sketching phase. Once I decide on a version I like I'll add it to the shield.
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Quick look at the rear of the shield
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As always you are a genius with the color wheel. You said that the colors used on the shield were used in a bunch of other places on the mini. This is what I didn't do on previous projects that I will strive to do from now on. To me, this is one of those steps that can take one from an average painter to a great if it is understood and employed properly. I constantly seek out your examples for the standard.

The sculpting on the shield really came through well. In retrospect, this was the perfect thing to do.
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I wish I felt more confident in my color choices. I don't have to stress as much on a lot of historicals as there's some basis for the uniform. Although you still have to figure out what to highlight and shade with. On a figure like this there's no real reference so I think over my choices a lot more. For the tunic I actually painted three small patches of different colors just to see what looked best with everything else. On this guy I've been a bit more intentional on reusing colors. The ones I've used a lot on this project are:
Bone Shadow - shadow for the dagger handle, midtone for the cloth on the legs and arm, midtone for light section of fur, and in the highlight mix of the tunic, pants, and shield
Brown Liner - Shadow or part of the shadow mix for leather, hair, armor, tunic, pants, shield, and wood
Blues - mixed with brown in the tunic and pants (just different ratios), the darkest blue also made it's way into the shield

I'm still trying to figure it all out. I must say I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on the painting book from Jeremie Bonamant Teboul, I think that's going to help my confidence on how to pick my colors. For anyone who hasn't heard about it, definitely take a look at the project
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/figopedia
Scroll down the page for the English verison. The sample pages look fantastic and they're almost at the 3rd stretch goal so you could get a couple bonus figures depending on the reward level you choose.
 
My first thought was... pffft!!! What does this guy know that David Powell doesn't? Nothing, that's what! Bailey'll probably teach him a thing or two! But them I watched his video where they showed pages from the book. I have to buy this! Take my money, fast!!!!
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I think I'm just about finished with the painting on the figure. Unfortunately there's still plenty to do on the base. For the shield I came up with a design based on an Anglo-Saxon artifact (the Sutton Hoo purse lid). I tweaked it a little bit, but hopefully still got the feel right. As a barbarian I figured this guy wouldn't be too clean so I gave him some weathering just like on the Dragoon (although with a bit more blood).

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The weathering can be broken down into roughly a three step process. The first involves some washes and glazes to add a bit of discoloration. I like mixing the GW green shade with the light brown, makes a good stain color. I applied it here and there to his clothing and a bit on the shield. The effect is subtle especially over darker colors. I also used some Tamiya Clear Red to create some blood splatter. For this I used a short frayed brush and dabbed it on. You can also use a bit of foam to create a random pattern.

In the next step I applied some caked on mud. For this I took some weathering pigments. The exact colors aren't important, just make sure you have some variation. Here I used a dark brown, a medium brown, a yellow brown, and a reddish brown. Then I mixed them with Matte Medium to create a paste-like consistency. I dabbed it onto his feet, up the back of his legs, and then a little bit on his tunic and shield. I mixed the different pigment colors in different ratios to create variation in the mud. You don't want it all looking exactly the same (close, but still with some variation).

The last step involved the pigments, but this time applied dry. I used a flat somewhat stiff brush to dab them on and then wipe them off. It should leave some of the color behind for a dusty dirty look. I focused on the lower half of the figure, then the elbows, knees, and shield. The upper body got some but not too much. For a final touch I went back with the Tamiya Clear Red and added a few more blood stains on top of the layers of dirt.
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When weathering remember that you're creating a history/story for the figure. Did he spill some soup on his shirt? Add a stain. Was he in a fight? Add some blood. Did he kneel in the dirt? Put some pigments on his knees. While there can be a bit of randomness to the weathering application it still needs to make sense. I applied blood to his knuckles because it makes sense that it might be there. But I wouldn't put blood splatter on the back of his legs. How would it have gotten there?
 

Digganob

New member
Frelling Horrible Bailey, and by horrible I mean GOD LIKE! Your painting skills are definitely divine like.
 

aniku

Member
The best part is not the miniature, which is awesome, the best part is the incredible explanation. So easy to understand and so usefull.

A máster painter and a máster teacher.

Many thanks,
Mariano.
 
Indeed, very good explanation for people like myself with minimal weathering experience. Will definitely use this on my current and future projects. Personally, I use Secret Weapon's dried blood and GW's Blood for the Blood God-which is just like the Tamiya mix. The latter is for fresher wounds, while the former is for old blood. I use them on their own and together. Although for added effect I'll still add some brown and/or black glazes in the oldest spots.
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Well, I got back from a week away and found my Arena Rex figures waiting on my doorstep. I've been waiting on this kickstarter for about a year so I had to start painting one of them right away. I chose the Otho Mentulus figure. I love the sculpt (tons of detail) and it's pretty close to being historically accurate. I've focused on the skin, the rest is just base coated. The figures in the range are 35mm, so a little smaller than my normal stuff. I'm pleased with the results at this scale but it really makes me appreciate working on 54mm and larger sized figures.
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His posture blocks the light from hitting his chest, so here he is tilted up for a better view.
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