Bailey03's WIP
- Thread starter Bailey03
- Start date
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Bally is what your saying is you solely work in reverse just glazing in the shadows or is there any highlighting steps or strictly gotten this result adding in shadows cause it's really believable whatever you did.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
TThanks same steps I do just curious..anytime someone does a very stupendous job I like to ask not about recipes so much but the rough draft of steps taken.thanks for taking the time to respond..I'm watching you :/ .....closely may I add!! ( two fingers point to eyes the point to you) lol I'll be stopping by more often....it's not like I'm trying to spy or anything heavens no no.lol
EpicMiniArt
New member
Both of your works are phenomenal, but have to badger the both you of if I have questions about working through Figopdia
Bailey03
Well-known member
Thanks, Epic. Let us know if you run into any questions with Figopedia. I find trying to explain the stuff in there ends up helping me understand it better.
I haven't done much on the Northumbrian figure, just painted the hair and sketched in the shadows on his tunic. But, yesterday my new webcam arrived and I wanted to test it out. I've been taking part in some painting hangouts over on google chat and the best I could get with my old camera was a fuzzy blur that might be a miniature. So after searching around and taking some advice from Shades, I ordered the Ipevo VZ-1 camera. The setup still needs some fine tuning, lights could use some adjusting and probably diffusers, but for a quick test I think the level of detail captured looks great. I took a capture of the screen so you could see how it looks. The metals are obviously very sensitive to the light position, but in general the colors are right and the focus is good enough for you to see the details on the face.
Actually painting for the camera will take some getting used too. I don't normally worry about keeping the figure in the frame or at the same distance so it doesn't go out of focus when I normally paint. But, if I am able to get the hang of it, perhaps I'll put together some video tutorials a some point.
I haven't done much on the Northumbrian figure, just painted the hair and sketched in the shadows on his tunic. But, yesterday my new webcam arrived and I wanted to test it out. I've been taking part in some painting hangouts over on google chat and the best I could get with my old camera was a fuzzy blur that might be a miniature. So after searching around and taking some advice from Shades, I ordered the Ipevo VZ-1 camera. The setup still needs some fine tuning, lights could use some adjusting and probably diffusers, but for a quick test I think the level of detail captured looks great. I took a capture of the screen so you could see how it looks. The metals are obviously very sensitive to the light position, but in general the colors are right and the focus is good enough for you to see the details on the face.
Actually painting for the camera will take some getting used too. I don't normally worry about keeping the figure in the frame or at the same distance so it doesn't go out of focus when I normally paint. But, if I am able to get the hang of it, perhaps I'll put together some video tutorials a some point.
Bailey03
Well-known member
In the last post I'd just started to sketch in the shadows for the tunic. Since then I've gone back in to blend in the shadows and add the highlights. I used Ritterlich blue for the shadows, a mix of Heather Blue and Dark Elf Highlight for the mid tone, and a touch of Ghost White for the highlights. I'm in the process of adding a border pattern to the bottom of the tunic. It's going to be a rather complex design, so I'm taking my time with it. Right now it's just the bottom border and a few guide marks for the top section.
EpicMiniArt
New member
very nice, super smooth. Do you wet blend and glaze to achieve your smooth result?
SkelettetS
New member
again well done, pretty!
and i know im little late, but congrats for the massive voodoo award. you rock! :good:
and i know im little late, but congrats for the massive voodoo award. you rock! :good:
Terrafirma
New member
That looks like real material on that Bailey ,again your gonna knock this outa the park.
Bailey03
Well-known member
Thanks, Epic, Skel, Andy, and Terra!
Epic, I've been watching some videos on wet blending and I'd really like to try it. At some point I really should dedicate a few months to learning that, airbrushing, and a few other techniques that look really helpful. I'm sure it will take a lot longer to master, but hopefully that will get me over the initial hump to become passable with the technique. Oye, just need to find the time, right?
My standard approach is more of a mix between layering and glazing. Here's a shot of my wet palette from last night. There's about 15 color mixes, each slightly different from the next. Note that I did not go all the way to pure ghost white (the small blob on the far left), that would have added another 7 or 8 layers. Each layer on the palette looks opaque, but it is watered down so what I'm applying to the figure is semi-transparent. It's not to the same level of transparency as you'd want in traditional glazing, hence the small difference in colors between layers. I don't claim this is the ideal way to paint (it's certainly not very quick!), but it's the style I'm used to so it works for me. I would like to try some other techniques and find something a bit quicker and more efficient. But, until I can devote some serious time to learning another approach, I'll stick with this cause at least I know I can get the results I want. :smile:
View attachment 40872
Epic, I've been watching some videos on wet blending and I'd really like to try it. At some point I really should dedicate a few months to learning that, airbrushing, and a few other techniques that look really helpful. I'm sure it will take a lot longer to master, but hopefully that will get me over the initial hump to become passable with the technique. Oye, just need to find the time, right?
My standard approach is more of a mix between layering and glazing. Here's a shot of my wet palette from last night. There's about 15 color mixes, each slightly different from the next. Note that I did not go all the way to pure ghost white (the small blob on the far left), that would have added another 7 or 8 layers. Each layer on the palette looks opaque, but it is watered down so what I'm applying to the figure is semi-transparent. It's not to the same level of transparency as you'd want in traditional glazing, hence the small difference in colors between layers. I don't claim this is the ideal way to paint (it's certainly not very quick!), but it's the style I'm used to so it works for me. I would like to try some other techniques and find something a bit quicker and more efficient. But, until I can devote some serious time to learning another approach, I'll stick with this cause at least I know I can get the results I want. :smile:
View attachment 40872
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
This is really really lovely david.can you answer a question for me the white dots are they guide for another highlight or something to that effect.the reason I ask is I've done it ine or twice when teaching folks where they would put their highlights but want even conscious of doing it on a steady basis if it helps.
Bailey03
Well-known member
Thanks, 10 and BAM.
No, the dots aren't for highlights. I'm adding a border pattern to the tunic. The dots are there as a guide for the top edge of the pattern. I'll be adding a line through them just like on the bottom. I used a toothpick as a ruler and marked off dots at a uniform height all around the base of the tunic. Although this will be a different pattern, the idea is the same as when I did the pattern on the knight's cape.
No, the dots aren't for highlights. I'm adding a border pattern to the tunic. The dots are there as a guide for the top edge of the pattern. I'll be adding a line through them just like on the bottom. I used a toothpick as a ruler and marked off dots at a uniform height all around the base of the tunic. Although this will be a different pattern, the idea is the same as when I did the pattern on the knight's cape.
EpicMiniArt
New member
That is lovely bailey, very insightful into the way you paint. you can learn so much from seeing ones pallet. I was also curious to why the white dots on the kilt. I take you stick with a limited number of blues and intermix them all so you have the same harmony through the shades?
Bailey03
Well-known member
Epic, yeah, I try to reuse colors as much as I can. The tunic is Ritterlich Blue, Heather Blue, Dark Elf Highlight (more of a grey then a blue), and Ghost White (white with just a hint of blue). The Ritterlich blue has been mixed into the metallic shadows and even into the skin shadows (though just a very very small amount) and the hair. When I get to the browns I'm sure I will reuse both the Ritterlich and the Heather blues.
Oh, and the white dots/line on the tunic is actually Ghost White and not pure white. You can see on the palette I mixed in some of the dark elf grey so the line also gets darker as it goes into the shadow regions.
Oh, and the white dots/line on the tunic is actually Ghost White and not pure white. You can see on the palette I mixed in some of the dark elf grey so the line also gets darker as it goes into the shadow regions.
EpicMiniArt
New member
Now that is a fantastic way to draw a good fine line or a detailed pattern. I will be adding that to my box of tricks for sure, very neat and very simple. I love the limited pallet I am a strong believer that is creates a far more balanced miniature that is far more appealing to the eye.
Do generally desturate the highlights but keep the shades saturated? I struggle to to create realistic looking skins/cloths and I know its down to my choice of pallet. I did notice you have some grey tones on the pallet. I'm only assuming that is what your using to control the saturation.
Do generally desturate the highlights but keep the shades saturated? I struggle to to create realistic looking skins/cloths and I know its down to my choice of pallet. I did notice you have some grey tones on the pallet. I'm only assuming that is what your using to control the saturation.
Bailey03
Well-known member
Hmmm... I hadn't really thought about it too much, but I suppose there are quite a few instances where I do mix grey into my cloths. For this figure I did not want too vivid a blue, so I considered mixing either greys into the blue or browns into the blue. In this case I went with grey although on the Saxon I did a while back I mixed brown and blue for a similar effect. Often if I'm trying to do a dark color I used greys to desaturate the highlights. I find this allows me to brighten up the highlights without losing the feel of dark green or blue or whatever color I want. Here are some examples where I used that technique: my Dragoon, Officer of the Guide, and Navy Guard. Conversely, I used a pure light blue to highlight the dark blue on the Polish Lancer and as a result the whole cloth ended up looking like a medium blue instead of the dark blue on of the Navy Guard. Another nice color to mix in for the highlights is a skin tone. Something to experiment with.
It all depends on the look you want. I often go for more vivid reds and purples, so I don't add any grey there. But, for your regular fantasy or ancient figure (as opposed to a king or noble), they probably are going to have cheaper duller dyes. Try to find a balance though, you don't want the highlights to get too desaturated and become chalky. I mixed the grey and blue together, thought I'd gone too far and put in more blue.
It all depends on the look you want. I often go for more vivid reds and purples, so I don't add any grey there. But, for your regular fantasy or ancient figure (as opposed to a king or noble), they probably are going to have cheaper duller dyes. Try to find a balance though, you don't want the highlights to get too desaturated and become chalky. I mixed the grey and blue together, thought I'd gone too far and put in more blue.
EpicMiniArt
New member
Your a gem Bailey fantastic advise. I know it all entails down to what you want out of your mini. Figopedia is a fantastic aid and I did note that everything is situational. I fully understand how its a subtle balance and you need to go back and forth a lot to get the effect you intend.
You and John are fantastic ppl to share your wealth of knowledge.
You and John are fantastic ppl to share your wealth of knowledge.
