Gandalf the Grey
New member
The copper is looking great already, the weathering should really make the whole area very dynamic, looking forward to what this alleged novice can do.
BloodFather's Axis of Chaos
- Thread starter BloodFather of Kharnath
- Start date
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
I'd love to give a great response but right now my CMON is acting up. The text is jumbled and most of the graphics and icons are gone. Been this way since last night...
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Ok we are back. Thanks guys for taking a look and commenting. I am very proud of how the copper came out. Simply because I thinks it one of the more challenging NMM metals to look authentic, and comparing it to real world examples I think it's pretty spot on. I am concerned that maybe if I went a little darker and a little lighter the effect may look a bit better, though. Probably best if I finish it as is though before making that decision. I'm already about as close to pure white as can be discerned, but some purple glazes in the areas already shaded may help contribute to the desired contrast. If you look at the last pic, it's only complete from the knee down. The rest is just base coat.
Demihuman remarked about my priming job by saying it looked smooth, but also that I rubbed it off of his foot. Yeah, I keep resetting him in the blue tac. Didn't want to glue him in because I wanted the ability to change his angle quite a bit, though this is proving a challenge. As far as the smoothness goes, yes I have always maintained that P3 makes a very superior primer. Two things tho. First, I wish that, despite the smoothness, I didn't prime because Simon's minis have such tiny tiny details and even a perfect layer of primer can muddy them up. Second, I don't think I will prime anymore, period. It takes some patience and skill, but priming isn't mandatory. Once 1-2 layers are down you can stop fighting the surface. I think that this will contribute to finer details and smoother coats in the future. We shall see.
By "novice," I don't really mean to say that my work is crap. Just that, for all intents and purposes, I've been at this hobby for about 10 months. I just mean to say that, with practice I should hope to get much, much better.
Khonner, your current WIP shows that you are on the way to great things. You will get there brother!!!
Demihuman remarked about my priming job by saying it looked smooth, but also that I rubbed it off of his foot. Yeah, I keep resetting him in the blue tac. Didn't want to glue him in because I wanted the ability to change his angle quite a bit, though this is proving a challenge. As far as the smoothness goes, yes I have always maintained that P3 makes a very superior primer. Two things tho. First, I wish that, despite the smoothness, I didn't prime because Simon's minis have such tiny tiny details and even a perfect layer of primer can muddy them up. Second, I don't think I will prime anymore, period. It takes some patience and skill, but priming isn't mandatory. Once 1-2 layers are down you can stop fighting the surface. I think that this will contribute to finer details and smoother coats in the future. We shall see.
By "novice," I don't really mean to say that my work is crap. Just that, for all intents and purposes, I've been at this hobby for about 10 months. I just mean to say that, with practice I should hope to get much, much better.
Khonner, your current WIP shows that you are on the way to great things. You will get there brother!!!
Demihuman
Active member
I saw Sproket's post about not using primer as well, and I am glad you are going to try it out. So I don't have too 
Are you brushing on your primer now? Do you thin it?
Also just cause you're an expert doesn't mean your not a n00b! Seriously though, I think an expert is someone that has demonstrated enough proficiency in a given field to confidently teach the skill to others. I think you are very capable of that.
Are you brushing on your primer now? Do you thin it?Also just cause you're an expert doesn't mean your not a n00b! Seriously though, I think an expert is someone that has demonstrated enough proficiency in a given field to confidently teach the skill to others. I think you are very capable of that.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Thanks Demi! I spray it from the can but I also have brush on versions if, for instance, I rub the primer off of my minis foot from lack of gentle handling Honestly, if the coating looked good I have to attribute this to the quality of P3 primers more than any skill of my own. Just point and shoot from about 6-10" away. Never start or stop a spray on the mini. Hit front back and sides once. Aim upwards on the front, downwards on the back (or vice versa). Upwards on one side, downwards on the other. This ensures that you don't have to spray two layers on any given side. I always feel feel like I put it on too thick but P3 has a magical way of settling evenly.
Yes, you got me, Sprocket was my inspiration for going primer less. I don't see it being too much trouble. We have all painted over a spot where the primer wore away or wasn't applied correctly. It's like chasing your brush strokes around to get it to set. It almost takes a little bit of dabbing it on in the beginning. But like Sprocket says, let each layer fully dry and it stops being a problem. I'll tell you how it goes.
You are too kind.
Honestly, if the coating looked good I have to attribute this to the quality of P3 primers more than any skill of my own. Just point and shoot from about 6-10" away. Never start or stop a spray on the mini. Hit front back and sides once. Aim upwards on the front, downwards on the back (or vice versa). Upwards on one side, downwards on the other. This ensures that you don't have to spray two layers on any given side. I always feel feel like I put it on too thick but P3 has a magical way of settling evenly. Yes, you got me, Sprocket was my inspiration for going primer less. I don't see it being too much trouble. We have all painted over a spot where the primer wore away or wasn't applied correctly. It's like chasing your brush strokes around to get it to set. It almost takes a little bit of dabbing it on in the beginning. But like Sprocket says, let each layer fully dry and it stops being a problem. I'll tell you how it goes.
You are too kind.
megazord_man
New member
For sure priming is often over looked at part of the process, muck up the priming and it's going to be a struggle, get it right and things often fall in place. I don't know about not priming, sounds curious to me. The best results I get is from airbrushing the primer (I use ak primer) or brush. Actually brushing Vallejo grey primer gives excellent results.
Good luck with the experiment- let us know how it goes.
Good luck with the experiment- let us know how it goes.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
More armor done. Left leg still needs painting, as well as his gut armor and shoulder. Helmet may get some more of the pinkish highlight. But happy with this Ratskin recipe.
SkelettetS
New member
looking hot mate! quite the opposite to my version
Sproket
New member
Nice looking copper! I really like the warmth & depth of colour you've got in there. Maybe you could add a few tiny sharp highlights like little glints of light catching on some of the edges. But something like that might be best left until last and after the verdegris is done. That way it will be easier to balance out the highlights against everything else.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Thanks for the kind words, all.
@SkelletetS: I still have been taking a look at yours just to see what you did with light placement. TMM and NMM = the same with lights and darks. The base on your Goliath is really what sets it off for me. One of the coolest bases you've done, and that says a lot.
@Sprocket: As you may have read, I used your recipe for both the skin and the copper. One thing I noticed you were very good at is your extreme highlight placement. I am kind of at odds with how I will accomplish this. Of course, I can handle the edges and some tiny glints here and there. It is some of the larger, almost extreme highlight lines I have seen you do that I may have trouble mimicking. But regardless, yes I will add some pure Ivory in places.
@Bailey: I am definitely going to add some
verdigris. I probably won't let it get out of hand though. Just splashes of it here
and there. At least, I will strive for this. I know what you mean though, even without using verdigris the copper sets up the use
of some very bright greens and blues. Will make them truly stand out. I am uncertain at this time what color to make the scabbards of the knives on his waist. Obviously a variation of green or blue, but I can't have it blending in with the verdigris. By the way, I have Citadel's verdigris technical paint. I'll use it on it's own but also mixed with Ivory. I also have Secret Weapon's slate green weathering powder. I'll have to experiment and see if I can't include this as well. Was thinking of putting the pigment with fixer down in a crack, for instance, and while still wet doing a controlled wash of the GW stuff, then let that partially dry and add some Ivory with the verdigris. Tell me your thoughts on a minimalist approach using pigments and acrylics.
@Diggy: Thanks bub. Now sculpt me something copper to paint. Really enjoying this.
@SkelletetS: I still have been taking a look at yours just to see what you did with light placement. TMM and NMM = the same with lights and darks. The base on your Goliath is really what sets it off for me. One of the coolest bases you've done, and that says a lot.
@Sprocket: As you may have read, I used your recipe for both the skin and the copper. One thing I noticed you were very good at is your extreme highlight placement. I am kind of at odds with how I will accomplish this. Of course, I can handle the edges and some tiny glints here and there. It is some of the larger, almost extreme highlight lines I have seen you do that I may have trouble mimicking. But regardless, yes I will add some pure Ivory in places.
@Bailey: I am definitely going to add some
verdigris. I probably won't let it get out of hand though. Just splashes of it here
and there. At least, I will strive for this. I know what you mean though, even without using verdigris the copper sets up the use
of some very bright greens and blues. Will make them truly stand out. I am uncertain at this time what color to make the scabbards of the knives on his waist. Obviously a variation of green or blue, but I can't have it blending in with the verdigris. By the way, I have Citadel's verdigris technical paint. I'll use it on it's own but also mixed with Ivory. I also have Secret Weapon's slate green weathering powder. I'll have to experiment and see if I can't include this as well. Was thinking of putting the pigment with fixer down in a crack, for instance, and while still wet doing a controlled wash of the GW stuff, then let that partially dry and add some Ivory with the verdigris. Tell me your thoughts on a minimalist approach using pigments and acrylics.
@Diggy: Thanks bub. Now sculpt me something copper to paint. Really enjoying this.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
How about a copper gargoyle dude? You know, Notre Dame type. Ancient and evil.
megazord_man
New member
Nothing to add that's no already been said other than, it's looking lovely so far my friend!
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
So many options when it comes to gargoyles bro. There have probably been more of these things sculpted than anything. But just some ideas for ya: You could have it spitting out water, or better yet blood. All it would need is a nice round mouth and I could handle the rest. You can make it a part of the architecture of a wall or column, as pictured. Also provided a couple if classic gargoyles. But it's really up to you because they're so many possibilities. Give it a try !!!
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Wow thanks Megazord. A really nice compliment coming from you and many other artists whom I admire so much...
SkelettetS
New member
thanks
funny you say that as my plan is to do a new base or at least redo it as i aint happy with it going to remove the webs (fail imho) and have more dead vegetation etc instead. for the future, though!