BloodFather's Axis of Chaos

wargamesculptor

New member
I find that glazing over the top can make the blends smoother, also great for transitional colours. Sproket explains it best on his blog, also GTG was telling me recently about blending both colours back over the other. (ASK Mally direct as he can explain it far better than I can)
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Yeah, Roman's orc is a great piece of inspiration. I've got the full figure version of that bust, I'm very tempted to use his color scheme and paint it. Doing something like that on the dino face would be awesome!

I'd say you could you use a lot more intermediate shades to transition. Going from near black to a light grey takes a lot to get smooth transitions. I'd also agree that you should save the lines for, well maybe not the final highlight, but the last few layers. Below are some close ups of the orc head I'm working on. Perhaps seeing it blown up will help. The details in the dino's skin are like the creases/wrinkles on your hand or the ones on your forehead (when you wrinkle it). There are highlights and shadows, but they aren't nearly as big as the ones you get over major shapes and features. I typically work from dark to light, so it's a bit easier that way. As an area starts to get light enough, where I'm maybe 3 or 4 layers from being done there, I'll switch from complete coverage to just picking out the details. That way the shadows in the little creases aren't as strong as the main shadows on the figure. In areas where there are the brightest highlights, I might extend that range a bit. Meanwhile in areas where there are shadows, I might ignore those fine details entirely. Without much light hitting there you wouldn't really see them. Take a look at the lips on this guy to see that. Compare the middle of the lower lip to the side of the lower lip (where it goes under the tusk) and to the upper lip.
View attachment 51612

Here's another (earlier) picture. You can see how the details on the side of his neck and jaw are there, but aren't lit as much as the ones on her forehead or the front of this face.
View attachment 51613

And, as wargamesculptor noted, using some glazes at the end can help with the smoothing of the blends.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
One issue is that my highlights aren't very smooth. I think I need to be more subtle with gradation changes. I only have 3 highlights I am working with and there are some not so subtle gradation changes in there.
glaze it.

Mainly though, my issue is this: the model has a lot of wrinkles and textures built in, which is just awesome artistry on behalf of Freeman. However, this has compelled me to paint in short lines to accentuate these skin folds. Well, it is hard to do this whilst maintaining smooth gradations and establishing zones of light and dark. So, rather than having smooth (and difficult) transition from dark purple/black to light gray, I feel like I have these abrupt and glaring lines. Perhaps I need to treat the skin like any otheR surface but use my line technique only for final highlights? I don't know the solution here.
1. don't worry about the skin texture. Just shade/highlight as normal, then do a thin wash and (oh my god) a very light drybrush. I know it's not advanced enough, but there IS a place for it

2. again do the skin as a smooth surface. Hit it with an oil-wash, get rid of it on the raised surfaces.

3. basically a variant of 2. Create a thin wash from pigments, hit the wrinkly skin, then with a damp brush/towel/whatever get rid of it from the raised surfaces. --> here you might have to seal the surface after.

4. or how Andreas did Gandalf's robe (http://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/3711 ) : with a good pointed brush draw in the wrinkles, then wash/glaze those that are too harsh or too bright, mix the skin a bit lighter (wash can remain abou the same), repeat until done. It takes a LOT of time and work (so the method wasn't for the impatient me) but looks good.

I personally would try out option 1 to see if it looks how you imagine it should be, but most likely go with 2 or 3.
 
Maxxxximus is there a tutorial somewhere for #4? I am assuming there is for you to have such intimate knowledge of his processes.

Patience is not an issue with me. I will progressively glaze each individual wrinkle on one at a time if I have to. The skin is not made of all wrinkled, just some here and there that are prominent.
 

Stewsayer

New member
Hey BFK,

Glazes. I used this sort of technique to pick out the wrinkles in the stretched sections of the Titan's demon knee plate (pic in my WIP thread). I painted my highlight line in in Titan buff (a bright off white) trying to keep them small and sharp. Then I glazed over with 1-3 layers of the colour corresponding to the overall blend in that area. I then went back and forth with the buff and the glaze if necessary shrinking the buff line a little each time. I also used glazes for the shadows. Generally the darkest colour for that area but thinned to transparency and carefully run into the recesses (no pooling). Control of the depth of the shade was in the number and size of layers more layers darker shade. Getting smaller in area with each pass.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
Maxxxximus is there a tutorial somewhere for #4? I am assuming there is for you to have such intimate knowledge of his processes.
sorry, none that I know of.
It's just that there is a yearly event near me (called Inspiration Modellbau) and he usually goes and paints there. It's not really a demo, but you can ask questions, get idea, have a chat.
On one of these events (2 or 3 years ago) he painted the Gandalf's robe and I could watch. Usually he is with Schlaubi ( http://www.puttyandpaint.com/Schlaubi/ ) there doing the 'demos'.
And once MV's Baphomet was also there (but it's a hassle to travel from where he lives, so no idea if he can be here this year).

5) Kidnap Bailey and make him do it.
:D

BloodFather: forget No4, this is a better idea.
 
5) Kidnap Bailey and make him do it.

Oh come on!! Have some faith, people:)

i I went into my painting room last night and snapped some quick photos. I am actually kind of happy with how it looks. By no means perfect yet, and I'll clean it up, but once I add in the accent areas it'll look yummy. Then Bailey can ask ME for some advice :)
 
This place (CMoN forums) is quieter than I remember. Maybe it's just cuz I haven't seen the usual customers-Andy, Ten, Skel, and Bailey-update much, because my notifications are very slow and I am subscribed to dozens of threads. It's like 1-4 thread updates/a day when I used to get what seemed like dozens a day.
 

Webmonkey

New member
It has been quiet the last couple of months. But with vacation season coming to an end, and school about to start back up,.. it should start getting busy again.
 

Hairster

New member
Great start to this BFoK, lovely tones on that NMM copper and I agree with the darker flesh tone for the dino/lizard, helps set off the blaze of colour from all that NMM.

looking forward to seeing this progress.
 

ten ball

Active member
Skin on the right track , bring the highlights right up on the highest points of muscles just to catch the light
 

SaintToad

New member
I think you should find another project to showcase that green lizard skin you've painted over. It was really cool, just maybe not right for this project. Looking good!
 

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
I'm glad your back looking great just to agree with ten that's about all. Very grand technique. And yes it's quieter. Look there are all sorts of approaches. The banded or corded method I use use for the end like baily mentiond I use this to pick out outlines , wrinkles etc. but I've seen a number of artists use it straight from the begining. It gives a more wrinkled look. If you choose to stay with that its the same highlight and shading idea only for each band or groups of them. Either way it ends up looking good for people who are technically savvy like you Benny boy. See

or you could approach things like myself , baily and a number of others .....WHRN shading and highlight YOU BREAK EACH PIECE DOWN INTO OBJECTS GEOMETRICALLY. The tail for instance is a cylinder baily Orc head is a sphere. To me this is the mainstay of muniature painting.this means each shape catches light and shadows differently . So after a while it gets very easy , muscle memory takes over and it's then much easier to apt not just lights and shadows but intermediate colors to your shapes and their gradients. No matter what you decide at the end your models turn out great and like mine and many others the "WHOLE IS GREATER THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS"! Paint on young warrior.lol
 
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Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
This place (CMoN forums) is quieter than I remember. Maybe it's just cuz I haven't seen the usual customers-Andy, Ten, Skel, and Bailey-update much, because my notifications are very slow and I am subscribed to dozens of threads. It's like 1-4 thread updates/a day when I used to get what seemed like dozens a day.
Sorry kinda busy with a few things having gone "Wrong" painting wise.
Should be back soon.
 

Sicks

Active member
I've had the kids on summer holiday so I've been pretty quiet and lately I can't think of anything helpful to say on most threads other than it looks good, i feel like im in the lego movie..... Everything is awesome!
 
Hey all, thanks for the updates and kind remarks. I don't want anyone thinking I was begging for attention on MY WIP, was just a general comment about CMoN. Like, I always see there are about 6-12 people in the painting and conversions forum, but no one ever adds new threads or comments on old ones. Hmm...must just be conducting research :)

I am in painters Hell right now. I just got two beautiful sculptures in the mail and I can't do anything about it. You see, I am moving out of my residence to live the next year in a 45 foot luxury motor home (similar model pictured below). I will be painting from it, you'd better believe, but for the next few days painting will be rough as I travel across the country to go pick it up. I am in the zone right now painting my current project and I'd love to touch these new minis, but alas...life gets in the way.

I will be based out of Florida by traveling the country in this motor home. Should be easy for me to hit some mini shows. Will be living in it at least until I start law school Fall 2017.

Pictured below low is the new Sci Fi Flower Knight from KD. Look how small it is in comparison to the Hammerheart model. HH is at least 10 inches from base of tree to top of spear. I told myself recently that 28mm is just too small for me. I believe you can still highlight and shade in the full range with large scale minis, and my faces won't be a mess because they are too small for me to see. Screw those tiny minis....even the KD mini is rather large in comparison to some...

By the way, the Ape Demon belongs in the hand of HH, however it's so large and cool I am just gonna paint it like a bust....really recommend these Spawning Pool minis: detail and quality is amazing!!!!

Cheers mates and wish me luck.
 
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