Favorite Paints! What do you use?
- Thread starter edomingox
- Start date
Flashman14
Member
No offense taken Finn . . . 
Ya, use what ever you want out there folks; be aware of the differences.
But also know that Citadel makes a very quality paint. Just a quick thumb through any recent White Dwarf should convince you.
Know also the bottles are crap.
As to Vallejo, I am a very strong advocate of them as well - I advocate ANYTHING and EVERYTHING that will produce a quality result. Vallejo is a great tool for that, so is GW, so are the pliers I mentioned.
The singular drawback for Vallejo though and folks should know this going in, is that they require much more vigorous mixing than GW\'s do (count the posts and threads here to get an idea). It\'s not exactly \"drop and go\". Whether you spend money on stainless steel balls for mixing or on a set of pliers that could be part of your home tools it\'s up to you . . . I don\'t care either way again my only interest is to help folks get a good result with whatever they have.
When I was picking up Citadels the Vallejo Game Colors weren\'t around so I found an easy way to avoid the callouses and blisters from straining on the GW bottles. . .
But in all fairness the pliers are hardly \"specialized\" - I\'ve seen them in numerous places in the states including Sears. Sorry for leading on my European bretheren to whom these may really be exotic! I don\'t know if they have international distribution - who knows they may be as common there as here????
But honestly, what are the expectations for paint drying out? I\'ve had many of these GW\'s for over a year - I don\'t use them all with the same frequency obviously but I havent had any dry out except for a black ink. And all the ones I use regularly are the worst offenders in terms of being stuck.
Ya, use what ever you want out there folks; be aware of the differences.
But also know that Citadel makes a very quality paint. Just a quick thumb through any recent White Dwarf should convince you.
Know also the bottles are crap.
As to Vallejo, I am a very strong advocate of them as well - I advocate ANYTHING and EVERYTHING that will produce a quality result. Vallejo is a great tool for that, so is GW, so are the pliers I mentioned.
The singular drawback for Vallejo though and folks should know this going in, is that they require much more vigorous mixing than GW\'s do (count the posts and threads here to get an idea). It\'s not exactly \"drop and go\". Whether you spend money on stainless steel balls for mixing or on a set of pliers that could be part of your home tools it\'s up to you . . . I don\'t care either way again my only interest is to help folks get a good result with whatever they have.
When I was picking up Citadels the Vallejo Game Colors weren\'t around so I found an easy way to avoid the callouses and blisters from straining on the GW bottles. . .
But in all fairness the pliers are hardly \"specialized\" - I\'ve seen them in numerous places in the states including Sears. Sorry for leading on my European bretheren to whom these may really be exotic! I don\'t know if they have international distribution - who knows they may be as common there as here????
But honestly, what are the expectations for paint drying out? I\'ve had many of these GW\'s for over a year - I don\'t use them all with the same frequency obviously but I havent had any dry out except for a black ink. And all the ones I use regularly are the worst offenders in terms of being stuck.
laurence
Brushlover
Opening GW paint bottles & the power of Reaper pro paints..
There is an easier solution to getting those frustrating GW paint bottles open. What you do is you pray to them, by this I mean get your bottle and place the seam part where the lid & bottle meet (mainly the bottom of the lid zone) between your hands and press (pray) you\'ll hear a slight cracking sound (hopefully not your wrist bones), your paint bottle should now open. To prevent build up of dryed paint around the lid which lets air in and eventually dries your GW paints, don\'t shake your bottles, try and keep them upright no matter what. Just use a toothpick or somthing to stir your GW paints. (I got this idea from reading a Bobby Wong article). Alternatively buy Vallejo, RP, Reaper, Coat\'d\'arms etc.....
There is an easier solution to getting those frustrating GW paint bottles open. What you do is you pray to them, by this I mean get your bottle and place the seam part where the lid & bottle meet (mainly the bottom of the lid zone) between your hands and press (pray) you\'ll hear a slight cracking sound (hopefully not your wrist bones), your paint bottle should now open. To prevent build up of dryed paint around the lid which lets air in and eventually dries your GW paints, don\'t shake your bottles, try and keep them upright no matter what. Just use a toothpick or somthing to stir your GW paints. (I got this idea from reading a Bobby Wong article). Alternatively buy Vallejo, RP, Reaper, Coat\'d\'arms etc.....
G I B B O N
New member
GW dry like a goddamn desert
Hi evry1.
I use GW paints for about 10 years, and must say they are crappy like bloody hell now. Once you have opened the bottle, paint starts to die.:flame: It\'s takes about 2 months to give your paints the look of a BlobKiller. In my box I\'ve got the oldest Citadel paints like Ghoul Grey, Terracota, SkavenBrown Ink(just great. sniff...) and so on (not in production any more), and they are still workin\'! I don\'t know, what have they done with the new ones, but they REALLY suck. I think of changing the paints to Wargames Foundry. Perry brothers use the oldest pattern of bottles, in which the paint doesn\'t dry so quick, colour pallette is quite big, and the price cool.
Hi evry1.
I use GW paints for about 10 years, and must say they are crappy like bloody hell now. Once you have opened the bottle, paint starts to die.:flame: It\'s takes about 2 months to give your paints the look of a BlobKiller. In my box I\'ve got the oldest Citadel paints like Ghoul Grey, Terracota, SkavenBrown Ink(just great. sniff...) and so on (not in production any more), and they are still workin\'! I don\'t know, what have they done with the new ones, but they REALLY suck. I think of changing the paints to Wargames Foundry. Perry brothers use the oldest pattern of bottles, in which the paint doesn\'t dry so quick, colour pallette is quite big, and the price cool.
S
Sturmhalo
Guest
I\'ve been using Coat d\'arms recently and they seem to work quite well. They use the old GW style pots as well!
Foundry colour\'s OK I guess. The actual colours are very nice, but the paint itself is a bit \'sticky\'! Can be awkward to use.
I like GW\'s paints but the pots are really shite and the paint soon coagulates in them. When you consider the high price and the small amount you get, wastage through drying out can really hit you hard! And when are these new f**kin\' paint pots coming out? They were promised nearly a month ago and still no sign of them!
Foundry colour\'s OK I guess. The actual colours are very nice, but the paint itself is a bit \'sticky\'! Can be awkward to use.
I like GW\'s paints but the pots are really shite and the paint soon coagulates in them. When you consider the high price and the small amount you get, wastage through drying out can really hit you hard! And when are these new f**kin\' paint pots coming out? They were promised nearly a month ago and still no sign of them!
Flashman14
Member
To avoid that drying out of the Citadel paints (or any paint) you have to add a couple drops of water every so often. When you open one and it seems to look gummy (paint level doesn\'t lean right away when you tip it) then take half a strawful of fresh water and throw that in there.
The straw is a drinking straw with one end covered with my thumb after it\'s submerged in water. This allows you to control the quanitity of water to put in there. A simple thing I\'ve been doing for as long as I remember.
Also, I never paint out of the tin itself anymore - GW paint is condensed - you have to add water to it to get the right consistency.
At some point, I\'ve had to add water to every brand of paint I\'ve ever owned. And I have some paints for over 10 years that are still useable. Paints require as much care as brushes do to ensure longevity so learn to care for them as you would all your hobby stuff.
This hobby is not for the impatient - every piece from the miniature, the paints, the brushes all require attention - the only thing you really can use as is are toothpicks, q-tips and disposable x-acto blades!!
:bouncy:
The straw is a drinking straw with one end covered with my thumb after it\'s submerged in water. This allows you to control the quanitity of water to put in there. A simple thing I\'ve been doing for as long as I remember.
Also, I never paint out of the tin itself anymore - GW paint is condensed - you have to add water to it to get the right consistency.
At some point, I\'ve had to add water to every brand of paint I\'ve ever owned. And I have some paints for over 10 years that are still useable. Paints require as much care as brushes do to ensure longevity so learn to care for them as you would all your hobby stuff.
This hobby is not for the impatient - every piece from the miniature, the paints, the brushes all require attention - the only thing you really can use as is are toothpicks, q-tips and disposable x-acto blades!!
:bouncy:
G I B B O N
New member
GW paints
Got the pic of the new GW paints, and it looks almost the same like actual, except the cap, which has some sort of \"old style\" look. But the BAD NEWS - the price\'ll be about 30p/bottle HIGHER. :flame:
BTW, someone told me long time ago, that this is hobby for everyone, not just for the elite.... Doubt it now..???
Got the pic of the new GW paints, and it looks almost the same like actual, except the cap, which has some sort of \"old style\" look. But the BAD NEWS - the price\'ll be about 30p/bottle HIGHER. :flame:
BTW, someone told me long time ago, that this is hobby for everyone, not just for the elite.... Doubt it now..???
GW paints. I\'m not all that disappointed in the caps anymore... In three years\' time I\'ll be able to crush coal with my hand and fuse it into a diamond, thus paying off this hobby and student loans in one fell swoop. Thank you, GW!!!
- Otter
\"Never send a ferret to do a weasel\'s work\"
- Otter
\"Never send a ferret to do a weasel\'s work\"
W
wyrmling_x
Guest
Right now I\'m just using Citadel, and have been for a few years. However, I really REALLY want to try Vallejo because of what people are saying about it. How am I to get it (I live in Canada)?
Citadel + Vallejo
I like them both pretty much equally - I find it hard to get all the vivid brights I want in the vallejo model colour range, and hard to get naturalistic colours in the citadel range.
The vallejo also has a nice range of creamy colours which I use a lot for highlighting, and great browns. I don\'t know where I\'d be without the gel extender and the matte varnish . I like the citadel inks in particular, and prefer their metallic golds. Vallejo alcohol golds are good but more hassle to use.
I\'m not a fan of game colour so far - thinner (and I think I got a defective Dark Green because it\'s just useless-thin with lousy pigment load) and more expensive, so I get even less for my buck.
I find little difference in the quality, and both have irritating downsides in the packaging. Citadel sticks, and vallejo occasionally (due to all the shaking) gets an airbubble trapped in the tip so the paint won\'t stop coming... drives me nuts. Also after a while the hefty pigment load makes it go lumpy as stuff dries out near the tip, but it\'s not too hard to mix it to liquid again. And it\'s much easier to clean the lids and tips if necessary .
So they\'re both about the same for me.
I like them both pretty much equally - I find it hard to get all the vivid brights I want in the vallejo model colour range, and hard to get naturalistic colours in the citadel range.
The vallejo also has a nice range of creamy colours which I use a lot for highlighting, and great browns. I don\'t know where I\'d be without the gel extender and the matte varnish
. I like the citadel inks in particular, and prefer their metallic golds. Vallejo alcohol golds are good but more hassle to use.I\'m not a fan of game colour so far - thinner (and I think I got a defective Dark Green because it\'s just useless-thin with lousy pigment load) and more expensive, so I get even less for my buck.
I find little difference in the quality, and both have irritating downsides in the packaging. Citadel sticks, and vallejo occasionally (due to all the shaking) gets an airbubble trapped in the tip so the paint won\'t stop coming... drives me nuts. Also after a while the hefty pigment load makes it go lumpy as stuff dries out near the tip, but it\'s not too hard to mix it to liquid again. And it\'s much easier to clean the lids and tips if necessary
.So they\'re both about the same for me.
Darth Ewok
New member
hehe i use apple barrel acrylics. 44 cents a bottle. lol
tooshy
Active member
Black belt in bottle opening.....
Hmmm..I have some ancient GW paints. You know the ones withthe flip-top lid? I too hate the new containers - I find it difficult to get a grip on them \'cos they aren\'t \'tall\' enuff & I always feel as if I\'m about to cover myself in paint everytime I open one. My flip-top GW paints were bought back in the \'80s and none have dried up (yet )
I also have Miniature paints - now these DO dry up, but the colours are great and the consistency too. I\'d like to try these Valejaro paints everyone is talking about, but not sure where to get them from.
Cheers
T
Hmmm..I have some ancient GW paints. You know the ones withthe flip-top lid? I too hate the new containers - I find it difficult to get a grip on them \'cos they aren\'t \'tall\' enuff & I always feel as if I\'m about to cover myself in paint everytime I open one. My flip-top GW paints were bought back in the \'80s and none have dried up (yet
)I also have Miniature paints - now these DO dry up, but the colours are great and the consistency too. I\'d like to try these Valejaro paints everyone is talking about, but not sure where to get them from.
Cheers
T
I\'m not vincegamer, but I can tell you who I got my dropper bottles from: www.essentialsupplies.com. The Boston rounds are the ones you want, catalog number N1322 are the translucent ones. The dropper plugs and caps are also available. You can buy a case, or you can buy in lots of a dozen. You want the 1/2 ounce size, as that will hold an entire bottle of citadel paint. They\'re cheap but very effective. That\'s what I\'ve put my citadel paints in, but when the citadels are gone, that\'s it. No more.
I\'m curious: I have about 3 or 4 bottles of Model Master Acrylic (also transferred to dropper bottles) that I found to be pretty adequate. Anybody else use these?
SkyDancer
Currently I am using mostly Vallejo and some Reaper Pro paints and Citadel inks.
The Reapers I dont think I will be using anymore. They have a strange consistancy and look like plastic when applied ( to me anyway)
I have a few Citadel paints but like many others here, got tired of breaking out my tool box to open the damn jar, only to find a dried out chunk of paint or to have paint fly across the room because the jar got loose from the pliers. Im glad I made the switch though. I like the Vallejo tints better and their line is extremely big. I very rarely have to mix my own colors any more (At over 200 colors in their range you can see why too )
It will be interesting to see when GW breaks out the smaller but easier to open jars if the people who changed, go back.
I dont think I will unless they expand their range.. and from what I hear they are doing the opposite.
The Reapers I dont think I will be using anymore. They have a strange consistancy and look like plastic when applied ( to me anyway)
I have a few Citadel paints but like many others here, got tired of breaking out my tool box to open the damn jar, only to find a dried out chunk of paint or to have paint fly across the room because the jar got loose from the pliers. Im glad I made the switch though. I like the Vallejo tints better and their line is extremely big. I very rarely have to mix my own colors any more (At over 200 colors in their range you can see why too
)It will be interesting to see when GW breaks out the smaller but easier to open jars if the people who changed, go back.
I dont think I will unless they expand their range.. and from what I hear they are doing the opposite.
