New to miniature painting and having a problem

Nydhog

New member
I just finished painting my first 2 miniatures and I love it. They look decent for my first attempt in my opinion. However, I\'m running into a few problems so I\'ll start by listing my supplies.
PAINT: Folk Art Acrylic paints
BRUSHES: Generic POS Brushes
Miniatures are WARLORD (by Reaper)

The problem I am running into is getting thin lines to look good. That and the paint dries somewhat bland and its extremely hard to get it to apply as needed. If anyone has ANY tips for me I would be very appreciative. I don\'t have a camera with me right now or I would post pictures of them.
 

NIL

New member
if you want thin lines, try getting some kolinski sable brushes. they hold a very nice point. a recommended brand is Raphael. they\'re expensive, but amazing quality.

as for the paint, are you watering it down and applying in several thin coats? it\'s the best way to get smooth, even coats. then, don\'t forget to add shadow and highlights to make the miniatures look good.

hope this helped a little.

{{ahl the beast.}}
-NIL
 

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
Originally posted by Nydhog
I just finished painting my first 2 miniatures and I love it. They look decent for my first attempt in my opinion. However, I\'m running into a few problems so I\'ll start by listing my supplies.
PAINT: Folk Art Acrylic paints
BRUSHES: Generic POS Brushes
Miniatures are WARLORD (by Reaper)

The problem I am running into is getting thin lines to look good. That and the paint dries somewhat bland and its extremely hard to get it to apply as needed. If anyone has ANY tips for me I would be very appreciative. I don\'t have a camera with me right now or I would post pictures of them.

Okay, welcome to the board and the hobby! Questions...

-Are you painting for the tabletop (lots fo figs) or are you painting for display?
-Budget?

The first thing I would say that has to go are the brushes. I wouldn\'t jump right into a raphael or Winsor and Newton (Both top end, top price!) until you\'ve got your feet wet. You\'ll appreciate them when you have them, and you need a few lesser quality brushes for some techniques anyway later (drybrushing)

If I had twenty-thiry bucks I would pick up the GW starter kit. Better quality paints make an enormous difference and the brushes are a step up from low end dollar store stuff for sure!

The figs you\'re using are fine. If you don\'t need to keep them afterwards then to save on costs you can always strip them with sheap pinsol when finished and begin the thing again!

For the next twenty bucks I would pick up...

-Spray primer (I use black, most of the fantastic painters use white though)
-A better brush, a good size one brush will be with you for a long time if you take care of it.

After that I would pick up a paint or two every time you can afford it, and always, always paint what captures you\'re imagination. Brand doesn\'t matter, what the fig says to you does matter. They\'re plenty of models out there and just take you\'re time browsing. Look through the galleries here and if something says \"I wish i could paint that!\" PM the person and ask where they got it and how much it costs. Never had a bad experience doing that here.

Good luck and welcome again!
 

Nydhog

New member
Originally posted by ScottRadom
Originally posted by Nydhog
I just finished painting my first 2 miniatures and I love it. They look decent for my first attempt in my opinion. However, I\'m running into a few problems so I\'ll start by listing my supplies.
PAINT: Folk Art Acrylic paints
BRUSHES: Generic POS Brushes
Miniatures are WARLORD (by Reaper)

The problem I am running into is getting thin lines to look good. That and the paint dries somewhat bland and its extremely hard to get it to apply as needed. If anyone has ANY tips for me I would be very appreciative. I don\'t have a camera with me right now or I would post pictures of them.

Okay, welcome to the board and the hobby! Questions...

-Are you painting for the tabletop (lots fo figs) or are you painting for display?
-Budget?

The first thing I would say that has to go are the brushes. I wouldn\'t jump right into a raphael or Winsor and Newton (Both top end, top price!) until you\'ve got your feet wet. You\'ll appreciate them when you have them, and you need a few lesser quality brushes for some techniques anyway later (drybrushing)

If I had twenty-thiry bucks I would pick up the GW starter kit. Better quality paints make an enormous difference and the brushes are a step up from low end dollar store stuff for sure!

The figs you\'re using are fine. If you don\'t need to keep them afterwards then to save on costs you can always strip them with sheap pinsol when finished and begin the thing again!

For the next twenty bucks I would pick up...

-Spray primer (I use black, most of the fantastic painters use white though)
-A better brush, a good size one brush will be with you for a long time if you take care of it.

After that I would pick up a paint or two every time you can afford it, and always, always paint what captures you\'re imagination. Brand doesn\'t matter, what the fig says to you does matter. They\'re plenty of models out there and just take you\'re time browsing. Look through the galleries here and if something says \"I wish i could paint that!\" PM the person and ask where they got it and how much it costs. Never had a bad experience doing that here.

Good luck and welcome again!

Thank you for the warm welcome. I am painting them for both Display and for use in D&D. I\'m on a tight budget. MAYBE 30 or 40 a month including purchase of miniatures and of paint. I didn\'t realize I was supposed to water the paints so I will try that now. I also didn\'t know about spray primer. I saw someone saying use a coat of black and a THIN dusting of white over it to get a good contrast of detail going. So far the colors I\'m working with are: Old Ivy, Skintone, Licorice black, Raw Sienna, Metallic White, Metallic Gold, Medium Grey, and Burgundy. I already cleared on Miniature of paint. Less conventional but it works. Used warm water, Lemon Juice, and some sea salt. Then used a tooth brush to get paint off. I\'m heading to walmart tonight to get some white and black primer, a thinner brush, and a few more paints and a palette. I don\'t even care if my miniatures look an 1/50th of how good some of the ones on here look, I just want to get some decent display and play miniatures. Any advice on what primers work best?
 
D
Although I am a bit late on the welcome, welcome anyways! :)

Three things I would recommend you invest in are:

- Primer - whether black, white or gray.

Black will give you a clean finish (basically any areas that are hard to reach with a brush will just look like shadows). Overall the colors you use will come out a tad bit darker because of the black undercoat, but not enough that you should worry about it.

White will essentially brighten the colors a bit but you have to be a bit more careful to make sure you cover everything up nicely. If you don\'t the white will stick out like a sore thumb.

Gray will give you the most natural finish by distorting the colors as little as possible but, you must also be careful to make sure you cover it up nicely.

Personally I use Games Workshop primers and find that they work very well although, I\'ve also had great results with Armory Primers. If you are heading to Walmart you should be able to find Tamiya primers there in the section with the few model kits that they sell. Give those a try.

- Paints - Even though it can be quite expensive to build up a decent range of paints I would recommend picking up a few basic colors that are specifically formulated for painting miniatures. The obvious recommendation is start with Games Workshop Citadel paints. They are very good paints and most hobby shops carry them. You can also try out P3 paints (made by Privateer Press), although those are a bit more tricky to use especially if you are a beginner. Last but not least come Vallejo paints which are my favorites. Some hobby stores do carry them and you can also easily order them online. They tend to be cheaper than GW paints, cover very well and come in neat little dropper bottles.

The paints you are using, Folk Art Acrylics, I have never used but, I find that the regular \"generic\" acrylics that you can pick up at craft stores have larger pigments and don\'t cover as smoothly as the ones formulated for mini painting.

- Brushes - Even though you can start out with cheaper brushes (ones that you can get at a craft/art store for around 4 bucks a pop (USD), I\'d recommend starting with the good stuff just so you can learn to use them from the start. You can get Windsor & Newton Kolinsky Sable brushes (their famed series 7), my favorites by the way, for about 7 USD a brush at www.dickblick.com.

I realize that this may all seem like quite a daunting investment, but, you definitely don\'t have to purchase it all at once. Pace yourself, buy each item one by one and practice using it. You can definitely get all the basic paints that you need for 20 -25 bucks and still have some cash left over for minis. Even go to your local hobby shop, a Games Workshop shop would work even better and pick up one of those starter painting kits (they sell Warhammer Fantasy ones with a few Night Goblin minis, Warhammer 40k ones with Space Marines, and Lord of the Rings ones with Moria Goblins.) Those kits come with a few starter paints (GW Citadel ones), minis mentioned above and a starter GW brush. Although in all honesty Games Workshop brushes are horrible so your better off using a generic craft/art store one.

Hope this helps. :)

Sorry for writing close to a book, hope you like to read.
:p
 

Hinton

New member
Welcome to the hobby.

Originally posted by Nydhog
Any advice on what primers work best?

Brush-on primer: Reaper\'s Brush-On Primer
(Just a note here: I started out with spray primer and then moved to brush-on; highly doubt that I\'ll go back to spray primer. But that\'s just my opinion.)

Spray primer: Dupli-color Sandable Primer. You can probably find it at an auto parts store or possibly a hardware store. Don\'t get the filler primer.

As for what\'s been said about brushes, you may want to invest in a couple as DF said. They are fairly inexpensive at Dick Blick; maybe $20 (USD) for two. I suggest starting out with a 1 and a 0.

Again, just my opinion.

Oh, and just as an aside, try posting your work, both in the gallery and on the forums. People gave give much better advice on how to improve if they can see the minis.
 

Nydhog

New member
Thank you so much for helpful advice! I\' just cleared off both miniatures and am going to try some of your advice here shortly. When I am done I will post them. And yeah it is a BIT daunting, but seeing how beautiful miniatures can be makes me want to take the leap into the money pit even more.
 

GreenOne

I paint my thumb.
I would probably be flamed for saying that but anyway. I started using very cheap Decoart acrylics (2 for a buck at dolorama), and generic brushes, and been able to carry on with that for the first couple of months. Sure I couldn\'t do anything great with that, but my overall skills wouldn\'t let me either. Just to say, you\'ll surely want to get all that stuff later on, but cheaper supplies can do just fine until you get your bases down.
Thinning paint is an obvious point, this is where it all begins.
Thin lines depends on 3 things, a fine point ( Generic brushes have that too, when theyre new anyway), the amount and dilution of the paint ( Thinned paint, dip in, then wipe excess on a cloth so there is very little paint left.), pression and brush control. Last point requires practice, you can practice over a little piece of primed plastic on the side until you get it down, it\'s less frustrating this way.
As for the other point, paint getting somewhant bland, this is the downside of cheap acrylics, unless you apply fairly thick coats, which is out of question for mini painting, but until you get money for better paint, you have to live with it.

Finally, welcome to the hobby and the forum, enjoy the ride.
 

Nydhog

New member
My dwarven barbarian (Tamclat the Shorn) is looking fairly decent utilizing my new \"skills\". Gonna practice blending on my next mini (Netheris, Evil Cleric) since it has a cloth surface around the waist that i can work on blending with alot better.
 

Mourner

New member
maybe the most important pieces of advice:

1) keep practicing and pushing yourself

2) keep an eye on this forum, there\'s a lot of advice floating around, and it just keeps on accumulating

3) have fun....
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
If you don\'t want to pull the trigger on W&N or other expensive brushes just yet, look for some Reaper black handled brushes (NOT the red handled ones.).

Very good bang for the buck - get an 0 (ought) and a 00 (double ought).

****

Paints: There are a few artists around here that can make the apple barrel paints work, but I\'ve only found them good for terrain work. By the time you get the thick paste diluted enough to paint, you\'ve lost all the binder (they won\'t stick).

Get some GW, Reaper, Vellajo, P3 (or other water-based acrylic miniature paints) (not a full set yet, just a few to try) and see if you don\'t get better results. You\'ll still need to thin them, but you won\'t have to water them down so bad that nothing is left.

****

Primer
Dupli-color is good. Krylon is ok for rank & file. Tamaya is great ($$$) for display work.

***

Clear coats:
You said these were for D&D play. You\'ll want to clear coat them to avoid all the paint rubbing off or chipping off each game... Krylon Krysal Klear give a nice hard glossy finish. Follow with a light coat of Testor\'s DulCoat to make them matt again.
 

Nydhog

New member
I\'m so shocked and happy at how helpful everyone has been thus far. I used Krylon as primer. I did one bit of advice i heard and primed it and black and did dusting from above to highlight features. Also, on the CoolorNotShop, I\'m looking at some of the miniatures for sale from what i assume are 3rd Party shops. In the thumbnails some of them are painted. I assume this is just an example of what it looks like instead of standard base images of the miniature?
 

Pullout Method

New member
I\'ve used the apple barrel paints before that you can buy at Walmart. In retrospect... Walmart is not the place to buy painting supplies. Ever. :p

Like everyone\'s said, Spray primer is easy, especially for units. I wouldn\'t ever use it on a centerpiece model though, because it\'s easy to overcoat and loose detail. I\'m still using a REALLY watered down Games Workshop \"Smelly Primer\"(so watered down I\'ve been using the same pot for about 6 years), which I think is out of print at the moment, but I know that Ral partha still makes a paint on primer. Buy the White color. When watered down heavily(2 water to 1 primer), it\'ll put on a very thin coat on top of the model, which appears grey due to the metal/plastic showing though. The super thin coat is enough for paint to stick to, but won\'t cover up any of the detail.
It\'s thin enough for you to just slop on, and makes it really easy to use for new painters.

As for paints, I unfortunately have to repeat what everyone else is saying and go buy some Games Workshop paints. 3 Bucks a pot can kind of hurt, but due to painting something as small as a mini, it\'ll last a pretty long time. What I have to say about the GW paints is a bit diffrent though. KEEP THE LIDS CLEAN. This happens to all GW paints including the old style pots. When you take the lid off, you will get a bit of paint in the section of the lid that screws onto the pot. Over time this will build up, and you\'ll wind up cross threading the lid. When this happens, your going to get air in the Pot, and either it leaks out all over the inside of your painting box, or it hardens up and becomes a waste. I suggest getting either a toothpick or a pair of forceps and cleaning the lid regularly.
Secondly about paint, If your interested in the GW paints, check and see if you live near a Games Workshop store. You can actually try them out in their store. Most GW stores I\'ve been in have a painting station with a huge rack of pre-opened paints, and a bunch of the smaller free GW plastic Minis(Mostly Nightgoblins for some reason) for you to try them out on.

Lastly, for brushes, again I have to repeat everyone else. Buy a nice brush. It\'ll last you a couple months if you take good care of it. , But for drybrushing I prefer the old pretty inexpensive ones you can buy at arts and crafts stores with stiff (non plastic) bristles.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Originally posted by Pullout Method.... Buy a nice brush. It\'ll last you a couple months if you take good care of it. , But for drybrushing I prefer the old pretty inexpensive ones you can buy at arts and crafts stores with stiff (non plastic) bristles.
Sorry, had to point out that my Reapers give me a year or two of use while my W&N\'s have gone for over 5 years. That is with painting 4-5 nights a week and teaching a weekly class.
 

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
Originally posted by Nydhog
I\'m so shocked and happy at how helpful everyone has been thus far. I used Krylon as primer. I did one bit of advice i heard and primed it and black and did dusting from above to highlight features. Also, on the CoolorNotShop, I\'m looking at some of the miniatures for sale from what i assume are 3rd Party shops. In the thumbnails some of them are painted. I assume this is just an example of what it looks like instead of standard base images of the miniature?

That\'s correct, it\'s just a sample of what the mini looks like assembled and painted.

If you don\'t have the modeling tools yet...
-X-Acto Knife
-Needle Files
-A good brand of super glue. I like Zap-A-Gap gap filling CA

Then you\'ll want those. In the meantime I would buy 1-piece models that only need to be cleaned and not assembled.
 

Nydhog

New member
Originally posted by ScottRadom
Originally posted by Nydhog
I\'m so shocked and happy at how helpful everyone has been thus far. I used Krylon as primer. I did one bit of advice i heard and primed it and black and did dusting from above to highlight features. Also, on the CoolorNotShop, I\'m looking at some of the miniatures for sale from what i assume are 3rd Party shops. In the thumbnails some of them are painted. I assume this is just an example of what it looks like instead of standard base images of the miniature?

That\'s correct, it\'s just a sample of what the mini looks like assembled and painted.

If you don\'t have the modeling tools yet...
-X-Acto Knife
-Needle Files
-A good brand of super glue. I like Zap-A-Gap gap filling CA

Then you\'ll want those. In the meantime I would buy 1-piece models that only need to be cleaned and not assembled.

I went to the mall and picked up 3 more miniatures and some Zap a Gap. Guy at the store said its extremely helpful.
 

Backstabbeth

New member
looks like the veterans here got ya covered with some great info. Just wanted to say \"hi\" and welcome again! one thing i will say is if you are painting for practice, always paint something that inspires you and you will end up with a better paintjob. As silly and wavy gravy as that sounds, I have seen it first hand and think its pretty true.
 

Nydhog

New member
One thing i noticed is its VERY hard to do shading/lighting effects by blending and wet-washing (proper term?) black and white colors. Pretty much what I\'m working with is all over the color wheel. I don\'t have the luxury of different shades of colors that Reaper and Valjero offer..... Wish I did so i could play with that more. Even when extremely watered down, these paints do NOT want to blend properly. Could be my technique, but it also is probably the crappy paint.
 

Backstabbeth

New member
whites and blacks are notoriously difficult to do well. What I have done in the past is Ill shade whites with blue gray/ blue
and highlight blacks with blue.
whites can also be shaded with a color that is already on your model.

I would suggest reading the resources on the web here. I would also suggest checking out some of the painting DvDs especially since that is the closest to having a teacher there. I would suggest the first DVD in the miniature Mentor series it has such an amazing freakin camera that you can actually see the paint drying on the mini as the guy is painting.

Second I also own \"miniature Painting with Jeremie Bonamont Teboul\"

a great source of information. I know you are on a budget tho and these are expensive so Id also say lok at youtube for some mini painting demonstrations

It\'s important to work with what you have and be patient. I have been painting for 22 years (on and off) and still have a long ways to go!
 
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