Obsidian Painting: Obsidian Paint!

Rugne

Rugne

New member
Put me down for one of the samples please, I'm in England, but if you do initially pull me out the hat, go right ahead and give it to someone more productive then me :D

Marc
 
C

Chrome

New member
If it isn't troublesome for you I'd love to try a set out. I can understand if I don't get picked though. I'm in Sweden.

Oh, and with the rock idea, I can quickly name 44 different gemstones without much trouble(thank you Google) and that does not include colour variations within the actual type of stone. On top of that you have semi-precious stones, magmatic-, metamorphic-, sedimentary and meteorite rock types.
So, using stones alone you could easily build a base range of 100-150 differently named colours and then you have the other forms of minerals like different crystals and salts.
And as I said before, this did not include colour variations within the type of stone itself like black rubies and the such.

It just might take a while before you actually run out of names in that range. ;)
 
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obsidianpainting

obsidianpainting

New member
@Chrome Nice! That'd be sweet. I like the idea of these gemstones/rocks. And i'll see what i can do about getting something out to you!

@Prophecy and everyone else: Remember these are for the washes, not the paints themselves. The paints will come a little later.

Cheers, Gary.
 
P

Prophecy07

New member
I use washes as much as I use paints. That's the only way I get halfway decent looking models. Base coat, base colors, heavy use of washes, highlight. That's as fancy as I'm able to get.
 
obsidianpainting

obsidianpainting

New member
Alright, so

If i could get everyone to pm me with their Info that would be excellent. I hope to be sending out the samples later this month. Or you could alternatively send it to my email address obsidianpainting@hotmail.com

Also, i will be creating a little pamphlet to go with the samples(and the washes themselves when in production) that explains how to get the best use out of the washes.

From my experience with it, the best way to use it, is to apply it in thin layers(obviously not necessary) But it actually creates a gradation so awesome it looks like you blended the mini with paint. I am currently working on a Sicarius mini, and i applied the wash in thin layers over the Blue armour. And let me tell you, i am mighty impressed. I will post some pictures of it later. All i did was basecoat with Regal blue(games workshop) and then i applied the wash in thin layers into the recesses. If you read my Archaon wip, you'll know this is how i generally apply washes anyways.

Cheers!
Gary
 
obsidianpainting

obsidianpainting

New member
HPIM0588-1.jpg


HPIM0589.jpg


HPIM0592.jpg


There yah go guys!

Cheers, Gary.
 
C

Chrome

New member
You got a Pm from me as well even if it was a long time ago now.

And, I've found a guy that just might be interested in being a retailer if this works out well. :)
 
obsidianpainting

obsidianpainting

New member
You guys are too kind!

I'm ordering some more supplies, and before i am finalized on the formula, i'm going to try a little bit more to see if i can make this even better! If i can then excellent!(because the idea i had is cheaper, and if it works better! Then yay!)

I'll let you guys know how it's coming along when i get those supplies.

Cheers, Gary.
 
Einion

Einion

New member
obsidianpainting said:
@Einion.
We are doing all this by hand, so no rolling mills(yes it takes alot longer, maybe later on if we get people who like the product) Dispersant isn't Necessary, it's just convenient.
Click to expand...
I don't think you can be sure you're breaking up agglomerations, and proper pigment wetting, without milling or the use of dispersants.

Other than potential issues with settling being faster than it should in the wells of a palette for example, this will lead to problems with regard to shelf life.

obsidianpainting said:
We are doing the colour matching by eye. We have a lot of templates to follow as well, this colour plus this colour makes this colour, and then you just gauge from there what else you need to add.
Click to expand...
This is much more difficult than I think you're giving it credit - it's notorious for being harder to control in practice than on paper.

Two batches of a pigment from one supplier can vary, leading to very different colouring abilities in a mix even with 'the same' pigment. In addition to how this affects consistency it's a major headache when it comes to using guides to how A+B+C=D.

On top of that, with a relatively limited palette I think you'll run into gamut issues, e.g. with CMY you have major gaps in the violet, orange/red and even in the green where the chroma is highest.

Einion
 
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Prophecy07

New member
This entire conversation has gone waaaaay over my head. On the upside, between googling and wikipediaing (is that a word yet?), I have learned quite a bit!
 
obsidianpainting

obsidianpainting

New member
Einion said:
I don't think you can be sure you're breaking up agglomerations, and proper pigment wetting, without milling or the use of dispersants.

Other than potential issues with settling being faster than it should in the wells of a palette for example, this will lead to problems with regard to shelf life.


This is much more difficult than I think you're giving it credit - it's notorious for being harder to control in practice than on paper.

Two batches of a pigment from one supplier can vary, leading to very different colouring abilities in a mix even with 'the same' pigment. In addition to how this affects consistency it's a major headache when it comes to using guides to how A+B+C=D.

On top of that, with a relatively limited palette I think you'll run into gamut issues, e.g. with CMY you have major gaps in the violet, orange/red and even in the green where the chroma is highest.

Einion
Click to expand...


I apologize Einion, but it you seem to not give me enough Credit. I have done all the research and i know all the problems you have been presenting me with. And i have come up with some solutions to some of the problems.

Going back to the dispersant thing, It is possible, with oxides(which is mostly what i'm using) to just pre-disperse them in water, and they will come out just as good as if you've used dispersant. Dispersant was created for the trickier pigment. Granted, not all pigments act the same way, and some oxides do need some extra attention. I will be mulling all the pigments by hand into the water for predispersal. I will be mulling all the pigments by hand into the binder. This way i can control exactly how the paint turns out. Yes you could achieve the same, if not better result with a machine. However i want to do this by hand(personal Preference) I will have dispersant on the side, in case i need to use it. Some pigments, as said earlier, are trickier to disperse.

The settling issue deals with binder not dispersant. If the pigment isn't "ground" into the binder correctly it will seperate.

Onto the colour mixing:
I have spent the last few months, literally just mixing paint. This was to hone my skill at being able to do this. Personally i enjoy it. I have gained alot of knowledge through testing and trial and error. Also, to make things simpler, you can always buy a Mixing Chart. This will help with basic stuff. I believe you can find a couple of them at dickblick.com if i'm not mistaken.

Now with all that said, I know you are just trying to give constructive criticism and pointing out flaws. And i understand and appreciate it.

Cheers. Gary.
 
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