Painting Class.....Skin up with Klute
- Thread starter Klute
- Start date
gothicwolf
New member
should i re paint the skin with the original mix then try and re glaze ?
or would it be best to restart over from stratch ?? (might mean changing to a new model though! and placing that one in the stripping box! )
or would it be best to restart over from stratch ?? (might mean changing to a new model though! and placing that one in the stripping box! )
gothicwolf
New member
im gonna start over and strip these piece and reprime today, so by this evening i will be back up to the point of the hightlighting lession,
i want to ask, when layering say take
base coat? how many layers should i be amming at to get a good smooth layer, cause when i thinned down my paint and apply it alaways comes out boltchy
i will give you an example using a different model,
i have ringed the areas where i see a problem, this was done using teracota gw paint, thinned with water and a tip of flow improver.. do i recoat this again with a thinned layer repeatedly till it is a soild colour?
i want to make sure i can do this basic step cause (might be that i have a head cold right now) im feel a lil out of my depth and lost!
i want to ask, when layering say take
base coat? how many layers should i be amming at to get a good smooth layer, cause when i thinned down my paint and apply it alaways comes out boltchy
i will give you an example using a different model,
i have ringed the areas where i see a problem, this was done using teracota gw paint, thinned with water and a tip of flow improver.. do i recoat this again with a thinned layer repeatedly till it is a soild colour?
i want to make sure i can do this basic step cause (might be that i have a head cold right now) im feel a lil out of my depth and lost!
vincegamer
Active member
How many coats should I expect?
I have spent about 1.5 hours on the painting now, just on the girl (the guy is so darn big that I can\'t seem to cover even a leg before the paint is dry).
Finally I believe the skin is smooth enough. I stopped counting, but I think it took at least 50 coats.
I had hoped to get a picture this morning before going to work, but when painting the brown under her left eye I accidentally got the eye itself so I have to redo it. I should be able to have it corrected and photographed tonight.
I have spent about 1.5 hours on the painting now, just on the girl (the guy is so darn big that I can\'t seem to cover even a leg before the paint is dry).
Finally I believe the skin is smooth enough. I stopped counting, but I think it took at least 50 coats.
I had hoped to get a picture this morning before going to work, but when painting the brown under her left eye I accidentally got the eye itself so I have to redo it. I should be able to have it corrected and photographed tonight.
A
Anatora
Guest
Well, Klute, the best and only thing I can say at this point is that you are teaching me patience. Last night, I managed to get only the 50/50 tanned/elf flesh layer on. It took about 2 hours and I lost count of the washes. Now I have to go to chiropractor today for my shoulder. I don\'t know how this is going to turn out but I will post pics on her progress.
I think this will become my mantra..swirl, dip, wipe, caress, repeat...I am loving it. (Don\'t anyone go there!) lol
Oh, and keep telling yourself...when you have lost hope that most of us will never learn, some will surprise you.
Thanks for doing this.
I think this will become my mantra..swirl, dip, wipe, caress, repeat...I am loving it. (Don\'t anyone go there!) lol
Oh, and keep telling yourself...when you have lost hope that most of us will never learn, some will surprise you.
Thanks for doing this.
@Vincegamer......as many as it takes really.Its dependant on what paint you use,how its diluted etc etc so its impossible to say.
Mine I would say about 10 layers for each tone.
Do the eyes after the basecoat then touch up.THEN do the skin.
@Anatora......it is theraputic,unless you are doing a tutorial that islol
Mine I would say about 10 layers for each tone.
Do the eyes after the basecoat then touch up.THEN do the skin.
@Anatora......it is theraputic,unless you are doing a tutorial that islol
vincegamer
Active member
by \"skin is smooth enough\" I meant base coat. I have to retouch the eye, photograph it, then worry about the lighter skin tones. I\'m still on stage 1.
I used at first a combination of vermin brown, VA reflective green and HH Union Blue. I then found I could get almost the identical color with just GW Vermin Brown and VA Beige Brown. Each brush stroke looks slightly thinner than the far right of your paper example. Since my paints are already somewhat thinned in the bottle, perhaps I need to add a little less water?
I am getting smooth paint, but it\'s taking very long and I do get some pooling in the creases.
I used at first a combination of vermin brown, VA reflective green and HH Union Blue. I then found I could get almost the identical color with just GW Vermin Brown and VA Beige Brown. Each brush stroke looks slightly thinner than the far right of your paper example. Since my paints are already somewhat thinned in the bottle, perhaps I need to add a little less water?
I am getting smooth paint, but it\'s taking very long and I do get some pooling in the creases.
gothicwolf
New member
@Anatora...... i know what ya mean about patience! geez this is my second atempt at same mini... and still i cant get this right, i think i need more patience..
im finding the transition from base coat to hightlight very difficult, might be that i have a major cold and cant concentrate but it just doesnt seem to work, for me.
ok Raises hand to ask teacher a Q
ok after base coat.. first hightlight of base colour plus elf flesh.. you layer this many times changing the amount of surface you cover ?? how does apply like given a body part as an example. say a leg for example..?? sorry if im confusing...
i just cant seem to get my head round it, anyway pics for the 2nd attempt as follow from undercoat to hightlight
i think i have made a very poor effort i think worse than first one
im finding the transition from base coat to hightlight very difficult, might be that i have a major cold and cant concentrate but it just doesnt seem to work, for me.
ok Raises hand to ask teacher a Q
ok after base coat.. first hightlight of base colour plus elf flesh.. you layer this many times changing the amount of surface you cover ?? how does apply like given a body part as an example. say a leg for example..?? sorry if im confusing...
i just cant seem to get my head round it, anyway pics for the 2nd attempt as follow from undercoat to hightlight
i think i have made a very poor effort i think worse than first one
@Gothicwolf........I think on the last pic it shows you have used this mix on too large an area making it look white too much.Give it a wash of tanned flesh and redo the last highlights again,working this thin means you can go over it many times.
I didnt really want to go into it cos its getting a bit technical but now you have raised the question it seems like I should have.
Imagining a light source.
A figure in real life would pick up light from all around and the a light source from say the sun.
For the purpose of figure painting I usually take it the light source(sun) is directly above the figure.Zenithal ie at its zenith ie top of its orbit around the earth.
The ambient light (light all around us that is reflecting off everything) will give the figure highlights all around.
To imagine how these will look on your figure hold it up in front of you looking at its face.The points of each part of the body that are nearest to you will be lightest,the points that are furthest away will be the darkest.
Now if you start turning the figure in your hand you will see all the contours of the figure.
Another way to do this is to give the figure a wash of thinned paint darker than the base coat.This will flow into the recesses that should be the shadows.
Once you have determined where you are highlighting up to you can start glazing up to those points.
If you do it right you will just reach the highest point as your glaze is giving a solid highlight colour.
After this is done I like to use a pure white very thin glaze to tone up the light source areas.As the light source is the sun then the areas that are toned are the tops of places etc.eg...the top of the breasts,the crescent under the navel.
Like I said it sounds very technical but with experience I have found I do it intuitively,highlighting the light source int the last steps of the main glazes etc.
I didnt really want to go into it cos its getting a bit technical but now you have raised the question it seems like I should have.
Imagining a light source.
A figure in real life would pick up light from all around and the a light source from say the sun.
For the purpose of figure painting I usually take it the light source(sun) is directly above the figure.Zenithal ie at its zenith ie top of its orbit around the earth.
The ambient light (light all around us that is reflecting off everything) will give the figure highlights all around.
To imagine how these will look on your figure hold it up in front of you looking at its face.The points of each part of the body that are nearest to you will be lightest,the points that are furthest away will be the darkest.
Now if you start turning the figure in your hand you will see all the contours of the figure.
Another way to do this is to give the figure a wash of thinned paint darker than the base coat.This will flow into the recesses that should be the shadows.
Once you have determined where you are highlighting up to you can start glazing up to those points.
If you do it right you will just reach the highest point as your glaze is giving a solid highlight colour.
After this is done I like to use a pure white very thin glaze to tone up the light source areas.As the light source is the sun then the areas that are toned are the tops of places etc.eg...the top of the breasts,the crescent under the navel.
Like I said it sounds very technical but with experience I have found I do it intuitively,highlighting the light source int the last steps of the main glazes etc.
gothicwolf
New member
i will be having another go, and do the steps you suggested.. when i feel a lil better, dam cold has hit hard, plus need more primer and nitromors to strip mini again, hehe i might use a plastic beast man to pratcice on as they have more skin and more pronoiced muscle tone
thanks for all the help btw is very much appericated...
vincegamer
Active member
Okay, here\'s my female fig with the base coat and eyes. As I said, this represents about 50 coats of paint.
The right eye went on right the first time.
Actually left wasn\'t bad either, until I overpainted it with the brown underline.
When I tried to redo the left eye she just wouldn\'t cooperate.
Then of course I knocked her off the desk onto the concrete floor.:~(
Fortunately it just knocked the primer off her bangs and didn\'t harm where I\'d painted so I\'ll just brush on some smelly white before we get to hair.
I\'ve almost got the base coat done on the barbarian but he has SOO much skin.
The right eye went on right the first time.
Actually left wasn\'t bad either, until I overpainted it with the brown underline.
When I tried to redo the left eye she just wouldn\'t cooperate.
Then of course I knocked her off the desk onto the concrete floor.:~(
Fortunately it just knocked the primer off her bangs and didn\'t harm where I\'d painted so I\'ll just brush on some smelly white before we get to hair.
I\'ve almost got the base coat done on the barbarian but he has SOO much skin.
Looking good Vince.
Eyes are neat and the base is solid.
It shouldnt take 50 layers though.
Your paint might be too thin.Ive said before it depends on the paint type,water hardness,flow improver type etc etc etc.
Its best to experiment with your mix to see what works for each of us.For the basecoat you want a paint that is as thick as possible without leaving brushmarks and covering detail.I usually give this at least 50% water.
I would guess at 5-10 layers for the basecoat with what I have.
Eyes are neat and the base is solid.
It shouldnt take 50 layers though.
Your paint might be too thin.Ive said before it depends on the paint type,water hardness,flow improver type etc etc etc.
Its best to experiment with your mix to see what works for each of us.For the basecoat you want a paint that is as thick as possible without leaving brushmarks and covering detail.I usually give this at least 50% water.
I would guess at 5-10 layers for the basecoat with what I have.
Dammekkos2
New member
The paint is too thick, apply less paint! (or spread the paint out more)
Excuse me only one teacher here please
@Supervike.....it is probably lack of flow enhancer.Whats happening is the pigment is binding together and being pushed to the edge of the brush.This happens when only water is used for very thin glazes.
The flow enhancer unbinds the pigments and when you place the mix on it tones the full width of the brush.Also make sure you dont have too much on the brush causing it to sqeeze to the edge.
What flow enhancer are you using?Future eg
@Supervike.....it is probably lack of flow enhancer.Whats happening is the pigment is binding together and being pushed to the edge of the brush.This happens when only water is used for very thin glazes.
The flow enhancer unbinds the pigments and when you place the mix on it tones the full width of the brush.Also make sure you dont have too much on the brush causing it to sqeeze to the edge.
What flow enhancer are you using?Future eg
I\'m using FUTURE wash. I also have something called an acrylic retarder, but I went with Future since that was one that you mentioned.
I am pretty sure my paints are thin enough, but I did use very little flow enhancer. The water to paint ratio is much higher in these subsequent steps, so maybe I just need add a bit more flow enhancer??
I\'ll try and pick up some Winsor Newton\'s when I get a chance.
I am pretty sure my paints are thin enough, but I did use very little flow enhancer. The water to paint ratio is much higher in these subsequent steps, so maybe I just need add a bit more flow enhancer??
I\'ll try and pick up some Winsor Newton\'s when I get a chance.
