so whats the best paint?
- Thread starter fireglow
- Start date
the best??
some people will tell you it\'s vallejo...
some people will tell you it\'s coat\'d arm...
some people will tell you it\'s pro-paint...
some people will tell you it\'s GW...
some people will tell you it\'s W&N...
some people will tell you it\'s gunze sangyo...
some people will tell you it\'s mr. color...
some people will tell you it\'s tamiya...
but frankly speaking, it\'s all and nothing.
Riddles?
No, it\'s for you to test it out and based on your own experience and taste, it\'s your call.
BTW, i know this posting is quite useless but at least i listed all the possible different companies of paints...
some people will tell you it\'s vallejo...
some people will tell you it\'s coat\'d arm...
some people will tell you it\'s pro-paint...
some people will tell you it\'s GW...
some people will tell you it\'s W&N...
some people will tell you it\'s gunze sangyo...
some people will tell you it\'s mr. color...
some people will tell you it\'s tamiya...
but frankly speaking, it\'s all and nothing.
Riddles?
No, it\'s for you to test it out and based on your own experience and taste, it\'s your call.
BTW, i know this posting is quite useless but at least i listed all the possible different companies of paints...
T
Thri-Keen Priest
Guest
Paints
I use GW and (recently) Vallejo. I\'m really liking the Vallejo for several reasons:
It comes in a handy dropper-bottle, convenient for easy opening, tight sealing, and measured distribution.
The colors are rich and vibrant, and retain their opacity even when thinned a good deal, making for smooth coats.
OTOH, Vallejo paints need to be shaken like your hand\'s on fire. You should regularly shake them *vigorously* for at least a minute or so. You may even want to invest in a mini-paint shaker. (I heard folks talking about these a while back...) If they\'re not sufficiently agitated, you will get a disappointing glop of binder, with very little pigment, when dispensing a drop of paint.
As for GW, they\'re really good paints. Lots of amazing work has been done with them. My only complaint is the screw-top caps on their bottles: It can be a chore to open and close each bottle, (even a hernia if \"glued\" shut with paint!) Also, they tend to dry up long before the bottle is empty. Such a pain!
An excellent solution is to transfer GW paint into a squeeze-bottle similar to Vallejo\'s, but larger. That way, the paint actually has some *room* to agitate when you shake the bottle. I\'d also add some water to the paint in the squueze-bottle, but not so much as to go past the point of drybrushing.
Anyway, that\'s my $2 on paint...
TKP
I use GW and (recently) Vallejo. I\'m really liking the Vallejo for several reasons:
It comes in a handy dropper-bottle, convenient for easy opening, tight sealing, and measured distribution.
The colors are rich and vibrant, and retain their opacity even when thinned a good deal, making for smooth coats.
OTOH, Vallejo paints need to be shaken like your hand\'s on fire. You should regularly shake them *vigorously* for at least a minute or so. You may even want to invest in a mini-paint shaker. (I heard folks talking about these a while back...) If they\'re not sufficiently agitated, you will get a disappointing glop of binder, with very little pigment, when dispensing a drop of paint.
As for GW, they\'re really good paints. Lots of amazing work has been done with them. My only complaint is the screw-top caps on their bottles: It can be a chore to open and close each bottle, (even a hernia if \"glued\" shut with paint!) Also, they tend to dry up long before the bottle is empty. Such a pain!
An excellent solution is to transfer GW paint into a squeeze-bottle similar to Vallejo\'s, but larger. That way, the paint actually has some *room* to agitate when you shake the bottle. I\'d also add some water to the paint in the squueze-bottle, but not so much as to go past the point of drybrushing.
Anyway, that\'s my $2 on paint...
TKP
It is likely to depend on what you can get hold of easily
Mouse does have a serious point, but at the end of the day your choice will largely depend upon what you can easily obtain. The paints you mentioned, as far as I know, were neverintended for mini painting, so I am not surprised you were disappointed.
You wont go wrong with GW (You will swear at their bottles!)
You wont go wrong with either Vallejo, Coat d\'Arms or any other paint that is designed for painting minis.
Most people, unless thay are at the stage where they import specialist pigments from far flung places, buy the paint that is easiestly available. Check out your local dealers:bouncy:
Also: Check out previous threads on this subject.:flip:
Mouse does have a serious point, but at the end of the day your choice will largely depend upon what you can easily obtain. The paints you mentioned, as far as I know, were neverintended for mini painting, so I am not surprised you were disappointed.
You wont go wrong with GW (You will swear at their bottles!)
You wont go wrong with either Vallejo, Coat d\'Arms or any other paint that is designed for painting minis.
Most people, unless thay are at the stage where they import specialist pigments from far flung places, buy the paint that is easiestly available. Check out your local dealers:bouncy:
Also: Check out previous threads on this subject.:flip:
Infidel Castro
New member
Hello TKP! Haven\'t seen you in a while!
After much consideration, I can only answer that certain paints have certainly qualities, and as they\'re all okay for mixing together, the only way to get the perfact set of paints (and it is expensive) is to buy all the buggers and pick out the ones you like!
Even if you have a general preference of one paint manufacturer (because of colour, pigment, glossiness etc.), the likelihood is that elsewhere another manufacturer makes a particular colour with better qualities than your preferred choice...
SO GO OUT AND BUY THEM ALL! KEEP THE WHEELS OF COMMERCE TURNING, FASTER AND FASTER AND FASTER...
In quantity terms I use Coat d\'Arms first, Miniature Paints second and then GW third. The most useful paints tend to come from the Miniature Paints in my opinion (and that\'s all I\'m offering is opinion) and the Coat d\'Arms offer me a window back to my youth as they still make a lot of colours I loved when using the old Citadel paints (same paint supplier also deals to Coat d\'Arms). Then you\'ve got the consistently good pigment of GW...out of those three I\'ve got the perfect combination of paints lol.
It\'s all of them, it\'s none of them, just as our Mouse said. You\'d need thenm all to make the best choice
rev
By the way, good to see you Thri-keen Priest!
After much consideration, I can only answer that certain paints have certainly qualities, and as they\'re all okay for mixing together, the only way to get the perfact set of paints (and it is expensive) is to buy all the buggers and pick out the ones you like!
Even if you have a general preference of one paint manufacturer (because of colour, pigment, glossiness etc.), the likelihood is that elsewhere another manufacturer makes a particular colour with better qualities than your preferred choice...
SO GO OUT AND BUY THEM ALL! KEEP THE WHEELS OF COMMERCE TURNING, FASTER AND FASTER AND FASTER...
In quantity terms I use Coat d\'Arms first, Miniature Paints second and then GW third. The most useful paints tend to come from the Miniature Paints in my opinion (and that\'s all I\'m offering is opinion) and the Coat d\'Arms offer me a window back to my youth as they still make a lot of colours I loved when using the old Citadel paints (same paint supplier also deals to Coat d\'Arms). Then you\'ve got the consistently good pigment of GW...out of those three I\'ve got the perfect combination of paints lol.
It\'s all of them, it\'s none of them, just as our Mouse said. You\'d need thenm all to make the best choice
rev
By the way, good to see you Thri-keen Priest!
S
Sturmhalo
Guest
This old chestnut again eh?!
I use GW, Foundry, Coat d\'arms and Vallejo.
I\'m just starting out with Vallejo and from what I can see I reckon I\'ll make them my primary paints as I replace old colours. I\'ve not noticed the need to shake them like mad though! I wouldn\'t bother investing in a paint shaker. Only thing where Vallejo fall down slightly is on some of the metallics! Go with GW for some of those (chainmail especially!). GW\'s metallics are incredibly finely ground! The best I\'ve seen so far. Also, Vallejo don\'t do inks (that I know of!). Once again GW\'s are the best in my opinion.
GW paints are really good, but when you consider that the Vallejo equivalents are cheaper, produce a lot less wastage, are almost an exact colour match, and give you more for your money, you\'d be a mug to keep buying GW (apart from the odd metallic and those inks!).
In fact I\'ve just ordered a few new replacement Vallejo\'s (like 5 minuites ago!) from game-mart.co.uk.
I use GW, Foundry, Coat d\'arms and Vallejo.
I\'m just starting out with Vallejo and from what I can see I reckon I\'ll make them my primary paints as I replace old colours. I\'ve not noticed the need to shake them like mad though! I wouldn\'t bother investing in a paint shaker. Only thing where Vallejo fall down slightly is on some of the metallics! Go with GW for some of those (chainmail especially!). GW\'s metallics are incredibly finely ground! The best I\'ve seen so far. Also, Vallejo don\'t do inks (that I know of!). Once again GW\'s are the best in my opinion.
GW paints are really good, but when you consider that the Vallejo equivalents are cheaper, produce a lot less wastage, are almost an exact colour match, and give you more for your money, you\'d be a mug to keep buying GW (apart from the odd metallic and those inks!).
In fact I\'ve just ordered a few new replacement Vallejo\'s (like 5 minuites ago!) from game-mart.co.uk.
Infidel Castro
New member
Oooh! Show off!
turmhalo wrote...
In fact I\'ve just ordered a few new replacement Vallejo\'s (like 5 minuites ago!) from game-mart.co.uk.
Oooooh! You frivolous bugger! lol
Keep me posted squire. I\'m all ears on this old argument.
Still recovering from that chat earlier :wow:
*reaches for bottle of Scotch, hands shaking*
rev
turmhalo wrote...
In fact I\'ve just ordered a few new replacement Vallejo\'s (like 5 minuites ago!) from game-mart.co.uk.
Oooooh! You frivolous bugger! lol
Keep me posted squire. I\'m all ears on this old argument.
Still recovering from that chat earlier :wow:
*reaches for bottle of Scotch, hands shaking*
rev
Thx for all the colorfull replies
Now while im bizzy with bugging you guys, why do you all use acryls? Why not oil paints? is it because acryls dry quicker or what?
I think I\'m ganna order a few of vallejo shake/sqweeze bottles... (after I know how to blend) Just being curious
Now while im bizzy with bugging you guys, why do you all use acryls? Why not oil paints? is it because acryls dry quicker or what?
I think I\'m ganna order a few of vallejo shake/sqweeze bottles... (after I know how to blend) Just being curious
There\'s a lot of reasons why i don\'t use oils. you\'re right about the drying time, but some people use a cooker to combat this. It\'s also because of a slightly higher cost, and the fact that clean-up is a lot tougher and messier (thinner, spirits, and such) ummmm..what else...i think they are more fragile in thin layers than acrylics, so put on finish. you\'ve also gotta thin \'em down a lot more, or they\'ll be even lumpier, but they are really good for washes because they..well...i\'m not really sure, but I know i read that somewhere
Because...
Oils were designed to be used on canvas in what we would consider to be a large scale. In the past, people used oils \'cos there was nothing else available. Some people still do, especially on larger military figures.
I would suggest try it ,and see how long it will take you, waiting 36 hours or so between coats before you lose the will to livelollol
Oils were designed to be used on canvas in what we would consider to be a large scale. In the past, people used oils \'cos there was nothing else available. Some people still do, especially on larger military figures.
I would suggest try it ,and see how long it will take you, waiting 36 hours or so between coats before you lose the will to livelollol
Beelzebrush
Active member
Has anyone tried water based oil paint?
Think, think, think, think, think
A long time ago I attempted to use \'oil paint\' But I may be behind the times. Can you even have water-based oil paint? Isn\'t that a contradiction in terms or am I missing the point altogether and possibly, inadvertantly triggering your trap???
A long time ago I attempted to use \'oil paint\' But I may be behind the times. Can you even have water-based oil paint? Isn\'t that a contradiction in terms or am I missing the point altogether and possibly, inadvertantly triggering your trap???
Beelzebrush
Active member
Hehe... it does sound like a contradiction
But you can actually buy it. I know that Winsor and Newton make it. I may have to buy some to see. I would imagine the advantages over oil based oil paint are easy and clean to thin and clean up and a quicker drying time. I would imagine the advantages over acrylic would be (assuming it acts like the oil based stuff), easier blending and slower drying.
It all sounds too good to be true... I\'m guessing it probably is but... whatchamacallit is the mother of invention ... erm or sumtin (crikey, I sounded a bit like the Mean Elf then)
But you can actually buy it. I know that Winsor and Newton make it. I may have to buy some to see. I would imagine the advantages over oil based oil paint are easy and clean to thin and clean up and a quicker drying time. I would imagine the advantages over acrylic would be (assuming it acts like the oil based stuff), easier blending and slower drying.
It all sounds too good to be true... I\'m guessing it probably is but... whatchamacallit is the mother of invention ... erm or sumtin (crikey, I sounded a bit like the Mean Elf then
)Flashman14
Member
I think Vallejo is considered too good to be true! (and mostly, that\'s right) Though I have a healthy respect for GW paints too (not the bottles)
i think good results can be achieved with almost any of the paints mentioned , i think (an this is only my humble opinion) the importance of brand is blown out of all proportion, a lot i think is more dependent on the artist than the brand, having said that i use the most popular paints vallejo model range, GW also foundry and i have been experimenting with golden(the brand not the colour, a bit), i also have experimented a bit with testors metalizers used by the infamous naturalistic painter rlobinske(dont ask if you missed THAT thread and dont know who im talking about, you really dont want to go there)
), i also have experimented a bit with testors metalizers used by the infamous naturalistic painter rlobinske(dont ask if you missed THAT thread and dont know who im talking about, you really dont want to go there)actually...
another alternative is enamel paint (is that equavalent to oil?)...hmm...come to think of it, it\'s thinner based.
It has a longer drying time (and of course us mini-holics can\'t wait that loong...) and hence good for wet blending and has richer colours!
but the hassle is the cleaning...your palette, brushes...blah..blah...blah...and of course the drying time...
ENAMEL PAINT
Enamel is also good for large surfaces which require brush painting, as it is slow to dry. It has rich colours and tends towards glossy finish. Allow 6-8 hours before adding another coat if required.
Warning: Don\'t use on PLASTICS!!!
Very difficult to remove as chemicals that remove the paint also attack the plastic.
It is perfect for fine detail however as the oil base is very easy to work with and it will happily sit where you place it. Have a small amount of enamel thinners near by in a small pot, and dip the tip of the brush in the thinners, then the paint pot, dab on paper and then paint on the detail.
ACRYLIC PAINT
Because it is water based it is very friendly to use, but the water tends to ‘hold’ the paint off the part you are painting, making detail painting difficult. Again, thinned with a little soapy water, the results can be improved but expect to require a few coats to achieve complete coverage. The finish is normally matt to semi-gloss.
This type of paint is easy to remove, just spray the part with oven cleaner (someone recommended this), leave to work and then rinse under a tap. The paint dries quickly, which makes painting large surfaces undesirable.
Originally posted by fireglow
Now while im bizzy with bugging you guys, why do you all use acryls? Why not oil paints? is it because acryls dry quicker or what?
I think I\'m ganna order a few of vallejo shake/sqweeze bottles... (after I know how to blend) Just being curious
another alternative is enamel paint (is that equavalent to oil?)...hmm...come to think of it, it\'s thinner based.
It has a longer drying time (and of course us mini-holics can\'t wait that loong...) and hence good for wet blending and has richer colours!
but the hassle is the cleaning...your palette, brushes...blah..blah...blah...and of course the drying time...
ENAMEL PAINT
Enamel is also good for large surfaces which require brush painting, as it is slow to dry. It has rich colours and tends towards glossy finish. Allow 6-8 hours before adding another coat if required.
Warning: Don\'t use on PLASTICS!!!
Very difficult to remove as chemicals that remove the paint also attack the plastic.
It is perfect for fine detail however as the oil base is very easy to work with and it will happily sit where you place it. Have a small amount of enamel thinners near by in a small pot, and dip the tip of the brush in the thinners, then the paint pot, dab on paper and then paint on the detail.
ACRYLIC PAINT
Because it is water based it is very friendly to use, but the water tends to ‘hold’ the paint off the part you are painting, making detail painting difficult. Again, thinned with a little soapy water, the results can be improved but expect to require a few coats to achieve complete coverage. The finish is normally matt to semi-gloss.
This type of paint is easy to remove, just spray the part with oven cleaner (someone recommended this), leave to work and then rinse under a tap. The paint dries quickly, which makes painting large surfaces undesirable.
Sand Rat
New member
Hey hey hey now, no picking on oil based paints here - I cant tell you the number of times I\'ve reached for that perfectly painted piece of a tank I was working on and had to add battle damage to cover up a way out of scale thumbprint - that plus the cost caused me to go over to water based acrylics. lol
Beelzebrush
Active member
I\'ve just been looking at the water based oils. And... as far as I can make out, they are basically oil paints that have been slightly modified. By that, and I\'m entering into the unknown area of chemistry here... thay have had a molecule removed... one that repels water, making them water soluble. I\'m not sure that this is the same as \'water based\'. It may just mean you can thin them and clean up with water. I have no idea if the drying time is affected... probably not.
Anyway... if you made it past the first sentence.. well done. I\'ll get back to work now ... ahem
Anyway... if you made it past the first sentence.. well done. I\'ll get back to work now ... ahem
S
Sturmhalo
Guest
Originally posted by calabdark
i think good results can be achieved with almost any of the paints mentioned , i think (an this is only my humble opinion) the importance of brand is blown out of all proportion, a lot i think is more dependent on the artist than the brand, having said that i use the most popular paints vallejo model range, GW also foundry and i have been experimenting with golden(the brand not the colour, a bit
I DO think brands are an important consideration as different brand\'s paints have slightly different properties. Try telling anyone who\'s used Foundry and Vallejo that they\'re the same! I mean both brands claim to have very high pigment content, yet they are very different paints indeed. Vallejo are quite thin paints but still give great coverage due to the pigment. They also appear to be one of the few paints that don\'t need water added before applying them (at least with Game Color anyway!). Conversly, Foundry\'s paint is rather thick and has quite a \'sticky\' feel to it. This stuff really needs water adding to make it usable, and even then you\'re not guarunteed a smooth finsh. The finish of the dried paint is also very shiney, quite \'plasticy\' as well. Foundry paint is hard work to use in my opinion, though there are some good colours in there. If someone were just buying there first set of paints, there are definately some brands that I\'d suggest they buy/avoid due to their ease of use.
Spill the beans, did the metalizers give a good result or were they as bad as they seemed?
Oh, just a point about oils. Never used them to paint a figure as they don\'t suit my technique. Have used them on a vehicle though where the results were quite good (for a first time attempt!). But the drying time was ridiculous - 4 days later and it\'s just about dry! It takes me long enough to paint a figure without trying oils as well!
lol
sturmhalo. ive only had a little dabble with the metalizers,but there are several problems with using them, the biggest broblem is they cant be mixed and they only come in 4 colours, which kind of limits any effects that can be achieved with them, i think its quite possiblt to apply glazes and washes over them which will combat this a bit, another problem is there alcohol based so they bugger up your brushes one of my w and n series 7 has gone to brush heavon due to this. i need to experiment a bit more really when i get around to it. on the pot it says airbrush only which concerns me a little. so really the juries out on this one but early signs arent that promising
