Sproket's WIP

Voted and commented...er twice. It showed that my vote counted on the comment, but my words would not appear. So if u see the same message twice, well... You know why.

So I found an example of how your base MUST look. Sorry, you don't get to have creative freedom here. You MUST do the base from this link, but a rotten Nurgle version, barnacle infested of course. That is, if you want to get another Slayer Sword. ;P

http://www.coloureddust.com.pl/2012/12/how-to-make-base-with-water-effect.html?m=1
 

Sproket

New member
Voted and commented...er twice. It showed that my vote counted on the comment, but my words would not appear. So if u see the same message twice, well... You know why.

So I found an example of how your base MUST look. Sorry, you don't get to have creative freedom here. You MUST do the base from this link, but a rotten Nurgle version, barnacle infested of course. That is, if you want to get another Slayer Sword. ;P

http://www.coloureddust.com.pl/2012/12/how-to-make-base-with-water-effect.html?m=1

I already have this page saved for reference - just saying!

You can definitely take this Nurgle thing too far! Having recovered from a nasty cold I promptly came down with a worse one and experienced a flare up of my asthma. Suffice it to say that painting was further delayed.

However I finally have some new painting to show. The pics below are of the very first stages in painting Gutrot. I've been trying out the scale colour paints from Scale75 and I really like them! The best thing of all is that they dry to a matt finish.

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Very, very well done. I can see the colors you are planning and they will work well together. Some black glazes on the open wounds would add some depth and contrast. I use Secret Weapon's Dried Blooos and it works great alongside the bright red arterial blood.

Recently basr coated a figure without priming. The details in the skin, such as veins and scars, we're so tiny that I didn't want to obscure them with a coat of primer. While not priming has required some patience, I am very glad I did it and it allowed me a very smooth and thin coat.
 

Zab

New member
That looks great! I love the pallette already. Was talking to a fellow painter at my painting group today who found the scale 75 colors weird. Said they had an odd viscosity. He likes vallejo better, said these were more like oils while wet. From what he described they sounded like they would be great for wet on wet or 2BB. Does that sound about right?
 

Demihuman

Active member
That is a great mini! I like the the yellow lurking in there. I am interested to see where that ends up. Alos like those sploogy pustules, they look just like fever blisters. I might have to break down and get this guy. Maybe do some kind of Cthulhu conversion. That is all I can think of when i see those tentacles.
 

Sproket

New member
Thanks for the comments Guys!

Very, very well done. I can see the colors you are planning and they will work well together. Some black glazes on the open wounds would add some depth and contrast. I use Secret Weapon's Dried Blooos and it works great alongside the bright red arterial blood.

Recently basr coated a figure without priming. The details in the skin, such as veins and scars, we're so tiny that I didn't want to obscure them with a coat of primer. While not priming has required some patience, I am very glad I did it and it allowed me a very smooth and thin coat.

The secret weapon dried blood sounds worth looking into, I've got lots of plans for this mini that will involve all sorts of 'effects'. . The wounds are probably going to be benefiting from some water effects and tamiya transparent colours and there may well also be some suitably disgusting additions involving micro beads and UHU glue.

I haven't primed a mini for years! I suppose that has it's risks and some people find it a very disturbing practice, but it works for me.

That baby blue is a nice color.
I like it! It is a very striking colour and I think it will add a lot of interest to the finished scheme.

That looks great! I love the pallette already. Was talking to a fellow painter at my painting group today who found the scale 75 colors weird. Said they had an odd viscosity. He likes vallejo better, said these were more like oils while wet. From what he described they sounded like they would be great for wet on wet or 2BB. Does that sound about right?

I wouldn't say that the viscosity stuck me as odd but they do have a very thick consistency and dilution is essential. Overall I prefer then to vallejo paints not least because the dry to a matt finish. They seemed to dry very quickly when I was using them but I was applying very thin layers of highly diluted colour.

Realy like that red mate. Glazes over a light base coat?
Yes, that seems to be how I'm painting all my flesh tones these days.
 
With Iyanden Darksun featuring as such a prominent paint in many of your NMM recipes, do you know of a suitable replacement? They don't make it anymore, and GW didn't make a match. I do know that VGC is a direct copy of the old GW paints though. I may try scrofulous brown. Just wondering your opinion.

And yes, people really do seem shocked when primers are not included. I won't be using any on future sculpts with very high detail and small scales. But I've also learned how little primer is needed. The only reason I find primer useful while painting now is that when I use the wet toothpick method as a magical eraser on recently applied paint, it doesn't work without primer underneath. It will just scratch away all the layers. With primer I can scratch off an erroneous line here or a splotch of bad paint there. Regardless, I know how little primer is needed now.
 

Sproket

New member
With Iyanden Darksun featuring as such a prominent paint in many of your NMM recipes, do you know of a suitable replacement? They don't make it anymore, and GW didn't make a match. I do know that VGC is a direct copy of the old GW paints though. I may try scrofulous brown. Just wondering your opinion.

And yes, people really do seem shocked when primers are not included. I won't be using any on future sculpts with very high detail and small scales. But I've also learned how little primer is needed. The only reason I find primer useful while painting now is that when I use the wet toothpick method as a magical eraser on recently applied paint, it doesn't work without primer underneath. It will just scratch away all the layers. With primer I can scratch off an erroneous line here or a splotch of bad paint there. Regardless, I know how little primer is needed now.

Finding a replacement for Iyanden Darksun is a bit of a worry! There are a couple of colours I've used which could serve:
Dark Flesh (Vallejo Model Colour) It's a bit light but is quite a good desaturated yellow - I used it a lot on the uncle John bust and Squarg.
Balor Brown (Games Workshop) This seems like a fairly good match

Finding an exact colour match isn't crucial for the NMM recipies to work what is important is making sure the colour isn't too yellow. It took me a while to get my head around the idea but the last colour I would want in a NMM gold is yellow! The best results seem to come from picking relatively desaturated tones. Whats needed is a subdued yellow ochre.
 
Indeed. I went with a VGC Bronze Fleshtone, which is exactly like a VMC Dark Flesh. It paired up well to a pic I saw of Iyanden on a wet pallet. Results were fairly good, though the piece I painted, a face mask, makes it tough to tell how effective the bronze NMM id working. Will have to try it on a larger, more varied surface.
 

Demihuman

Active member
Oh the "water blister' things I was talking about are just the horns turned point-on toward the camera. Have to file that away for the next time i need to paint some translucent blisters :)
 

SkelettetS

New member
Oh the "water blister' things I was talking about are just the horns turned point-on toward the camera. Have to file that away for the next time i need to paint some translucent blisters :)

haha that fooled me too actually, the watery blisters looked really super sweet intil you pointed this out :D

great start anyway sproket, cant wait to see where this lands
 

Sproket

New member
Oh the "water blister' things I was talking about are just the horns turned point-on toward the camera. Have to file that away for the next time i need to paint some translucent blisters :)

I hadn't decided how to deal with the blisters on Gutrot. All the examples I've seen are either painted as yellow & pussy or eyeballs - both good but a bit commonplace now. Watery blisters could be an interesting and slightly different (as well as suitably revolting) solution - problem solved!
 

Zomnivore

New member
The blue isn't working for me, but you're obviously not close to done, so who knows if that even matters at this point.
 

Sproket

New member
Well at long last! Having finally overcome the trials of asthma and Christmas I've gotten back into some sort of regular painting routine. As a result Gutrot has seen a bit of progress. Still lots to do and I wouldn't call anything finished as yet but it feels like the colour palette is beginning to work for me and I'm happy with how things are going.

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AndyG

Active member
That's lovely David, I really like the blue green on the armour come out very well I must admit I wasn't sure at the beginning with the colour choice but you proved me wrong.
 

Sproket

New member
That's lovely David, I really like the blue green on the armour come out very well I must admit I wasn't sure at the beginning with the colour choice but you proved me wrong.

To be honest I wasn't 100% sure about using such a bright blue base colour myself but I had a gut feeling that it would give me an interesting starting point. I could chuck a lot of other colours at it and not end up something too muddy looking but I think it really needed all the green, blue & purple to make it work. A lot of the detail needs to be refined but I'm really pleased with how the overall scheme is working out. It manages to capture something of the feel of the colours in my main source of inspiration. (My photos are a bit too yellow so the blue/greens are cooler, and the reds are a touch more purple in reality)


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