The Casting of Flash Juno

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Decided to split apart this little WIP from my regular one since it current doesn't involve painting. I purchased the green & rights to Flash Juno from Mike Jenkins (zombiesincorporated here on CMON). Poor Flash has been drummed out of all the various fleets (ie he didn't fit into any company's current mini lines), and so he's at my door reporting for duty.

This thread will contain the process of getting him prepped, molded and cast. I've already got a couple of people who've said they would like a copy, and I'll be more than happy to oblige for a small fee and S&H of course. But I'll make that a separate thread on the Trading Post topic group rather than put that in here.

I've done a few molds and casts before, notable the Hershey's candy bar from my Kit & Kat mini, and some bases and such. And I've really, really enjoyed it. Still trying to figure out how to cast a hair clip into the resin. My wife makes hair bows for craft shows and such, so a resin figure on a metal clip would be welcomed plus I'd have fun; check out her Etsy site if you'd like to see some of her ribbon art. I know I did some sort of mold for a kid's project possibly for school, but for the life of me I can't recall what it was. Hmm. But this will be the first opportunity to cast something that needs the more complex, two part mold. Should be a simple process. Just have to do it twice. Right?

Heh.

So here's a quick photo study of Juno. Let's start with the front and back. And I apologize for the focus. I do the phone's camera for my WIP, and it's hard to tell when I'm in focus. Think I just need to back off further. The details should be there.

FlashStartFront2012-07-05.jpg
FlashStartBack2012-07-05.jpg


Here's the biggest problem I can see that I'll have with the casting. That thumb is going to be a bit tricky. If I don't mold this right, air is going to stick right there on the tip of his thumb, and every cast will be an amputee. And if I simply flip him upside down, that other hand is going to be a trouble spot.

Let's take a look at the sides.

FlashStartRight2012-07-05.jpg
FlashStartLeft2012-07-05.jpg


Going down his right side, I'm going to want to avoid putting the mold line straight through the elbow and knee pads. I've always struggled with cleaning seams across textured items like that, so it's probably best to make sure I go along one of the hard edges. Especially since I get to pick where they'll go! I'll also want to go around the pads on his chest. The boots are another problem area, and I'll want to avoid going through the buckles. I believe I'll try to put the seam on the backside of those, just to hide things better from the front.

To make the two part mold, I'll have to imbed one half of him in clay, then pour the RTV silicone (Hobby Lobby 40% coupons FTW). The half of him getting the least amount of mold area will be the back, so that's probably the part that will go into the clay. The Alumilite molding kits that I use did come with it, and quite a bit of it is embedded with former pieces of other molds. Usually around the edges of the mold to seal it. I'll not be using that, but will be using virgin clay that will still be very clean. I'll go with my standard swipe of the son's Lego set to build up the sides of the mold.

Let's take a look at what that will eventually look like. Here's how I think I'm going to put him in the box.

FlashStartPour2012-07-05.jpg


If you imagine the photo as the silicone, this is how I believe he'll be poured. Well, except I'll flip him over so he's face up. The thumb is going to be at the very bottom to ensure a good cast there. The green areas that I've drawn will be the slotted base that I'll have to work up, and a vent line coming off of one of his fingers. I think a old piece of sprue, thinned out a bit flat then carefully placed onto one of his fingers will provide an adequate vent path to keep that hand from being a problem. In addition, it should be a simple filing to get that back smooth compared to trying to do the same for the thumb. My original plan was to do that from the helmet surface, as it is nice and flat. But, I don't think it will cause much problems for that very reason. So I'll go with the finger vent.

My plan is to just use white glue to attach the base and the vent. When I did the candy bar, it melted a little bit around the edges. I didn't think the silicone would do that, but it may have been the white glue I used to secure it that caused it too. Problem there was I don't think it had any way to actually dry, so it just dissolved the chocolate. If I give it a good time to dry, I don't believe I'll have the issues. And I want to use the white glue so that Flash can take a nice bath afterwards and the glue will release without damaging the sculpt itself.

So there it is. The pre-planning stage of the process. Had to go buy some new silicone molding stuff tonight, so he'll be getting fresh compound. Turns out I had a bottle of mold release too (needed for keeping the second part of the silicone from fusing to the first), and its never been opened so it'll be good to go as well. Writing this all out, I realized that I've got more than a little bit of work to do before I even start trying to pour a mold. That could be a good thing as I get more time to ponder it. But here goes nothing!
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Got in a little work on my off-Friday. Working on the slot base. Realized I had ZERO clue how to do it, but I can kluge something fierce.

Craft stick > cut off a bit > cut that in half

SlotBasePt12012-07-06.jpg
>
SlotBasePt22012-07-06.jpg
>
SlotBasePt32012-07-06.jpg


Next, take out the handy dandy Dremel, and tag one half of it.

SlotBasePt42012-07-06.jpg
SlotBasePt52012-07-06.jpg


That should do for identification purposes. After I did it, realized I should have flipped the "Z" around. Oh well. Too cliche anyway.

Next off, getting some pegs to go from the slot to the figure. What to use? Old sprue? Too big. Let's dig around in the bits a bit. Oooo! I've got plastic sheet! Twenty year old sheet, but still good. Didn't remember I had that! Cool! Uh, lets see. No, no. Copper wire. Eh, let's try. Hacksaw? Oh yes! Eh, no. That was way too much trouble and didn't give me a nice clean cut. So I did something I've never done before.

Used the cutoff blade on the Dremel. For some reason, I just don't want to use them. Worked like a charm however. Here's all the pieces for the slot base: wood, copper, and figured. I've put the copper on his feet first, and letting him cool (er, dry) his heels. Once that's dry (and I get back from going to a woodworking store to look at box parts and then swimming with the fam), I'll superglue the wood onto the copper pegs. It's not likely to be a perfect fit, but figure I can fill in around it with something to make things better if there's a large gap. And, I found some much thinner copper wire, and I think I'll use that on his fingers. It'll be smaller, and in theory will still allow enough air to pass. Might strip just a little bit of the insulation to give it a bigger channel.

SlotBasePt62012-07-06.jpg
SlotBasePt72012-07-06.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Thanks! Here's Flash with his slot all attached. It's a bit off kilter, but most everybody is going to cut it off anyway, or his feet'll straighten things out. The slot itself is too large for most bases anyway, so will have to be trimmed in any case.

FlashReady2012-07-07.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Got the first pour done! I'm going to let it sit for 24 hours, but here's the steps involved.

First was to get the clay base done. This is used to embed the figure, along with any sprues or fill channels. Since Flash has his thumb and arm more forward than his body, I've got a clay hill of sorts coming up on the arm and providing the negative space under the arm. I've also got two fill channels for the base, and one escape channel on the other hand. He's cock-eyed in the mold so that when I pour the resin, it'll go straight to the thumb with a good pour. I've undercut some of the spots on the arms. This is a silicone mold, so some give will be in the mold, and so I can probably get away with some of that. It'll put the seam in a easier to clean area. The two round things are pachinko balls, and they'll provide some grip to the mold when the two halves are put together.

FirstPour012012-07-07.jpg


I then put second layer of Legos around to thicken up where the first half of the mold will be poured. Just occurred to me that there is more than likely a proper name to that. Had to look, but Google-fu wasn't strong tonight.

Next picture is my setup. Paper towels for the inevitable, catalyst (small bottle), silicone base (large jar), the mold, mixing sticks, scale, and most importantly, Hello Kitty cups. They help with making the mold cute. Ahem.

FirstPour022012-07-07.jpg


The kit from Alumalite mixes up 10:1 by weight. I estimated the volume of a single set of Lego brick volume, rounding up to the nearest quarter inch. So, 2" x 2.5" x 0.5". The silicone sets up at 16 ounces per 21 cubic inches. Run the math and it says I need about 1.9 ounces of mold. Call it 2.0 ounces of base and 0.2 ounces of catalyst. Mix it up good until its a good uniform color and then start the pour from a corner. This will roll the material over the figure and keep most of the bubbles from setting. I took this at the very first, then pulled the cup up much higher to get a thin stream. In theory, that'll help pop a lot of the bubbles.

FirstPour032012-07-07.jpg


The next thing is to put it on the vibe table and let it work some bubbles out for five minutes. What's that? No vibe table? Yeah, me too. Just pounded the hell out of the patio table for that long, getting it to bounce really good.

And so here's the final result. It should be fully set within 6-18 hours, but I will probably let it stand the full 24, and work the second half tomorrow evening if I'm not exhausted from other work.

FirstPour042012-07-07.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
I didn't make the 24 hours. It was set up firm before I even went to bed, so three hours is the time it took to set. I still left it overnight, and so it had 16 hours or so to set.

First up was taking off the back and opening up the clay without pulling things apart. Success!

FirstPourFinished01.jpg


And here's a shot of it with as much as the clay removed with just fingers got. I think I'm going to go with something that's more water soluble next time, or maybe something that he can be placed in that will clean off a little easier. This is a bit greasy.

FirstPourFinished02.jpg


And a final shot of how clean I managed to get it. The blue streaks you see around him are really the silicone being stained a little. I figured out I could brush it with some dish soap and the toothbrush, and that did clean off a lot of the bits that were stuck in the details. I'm a little worried about the undercuts on the arms, and other areas, where the mold gets a little thin. I'm going to continue and see what I get, but it might lead to some nasty casting problems later. We'll see.

FirstPourFinished03.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Second half has been poured after several coats of mold release agent prior to pouring. I'd post a picture, but blocks of white just aren't that interesting. I've got some concerns on how things will come out, but won't know until I pour the first resin cast of Flash, hopefully with very little flash.

So tune in tomorrow to get a good look at the two part mold, and possibly the first cast. Takes about 5 minutes to get the first one, but a good 30 to get it cooled down and hardened enough. Should be a simple after work activity.
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Couldn't stand it again. Had to look to see if I'd done it right or created a giant fused piece of silicone.

Success!

OpenMold01.jpg


Flash survived his first assignment, and looks forward to his next!

OpenMold02.jpg


Tonight I'll clean up the mold (and the Legos, sneaking them back into the box for next time) and pour the first cast.
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Okay, so he's missing the side of his face. And his toes. And there's a ton of, well, flash. But that's his name, right?

Cast001.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
All righ..... damn. Toes and an ankle. Hmmm. That's when inspiration struck. Cut a bigger channel into the bottoms of his feet. That should let the resin flow into it better, or air out. One of the two. Some one more coming up! Oh, and for reference, this takes a miniscule amount of resin each time. I'm pouring 2cc of each part, and still have a bunch left in the cup. Should start pouring bases with the remainder.

Cast005-1.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
And I'm done for the night. Still missing knees and toes. At this point, I'm thinking it may be time to consider a new mold, one that works out these problem areas in a better way. Still, I'm not completely disappointed here. The hand holding the helmet has come out every time, and the thumb has been well formed. The mold lines that I set are easily accessible. What it boils down to is not a bad try for a first time two part mold. I'm thinking if I can't think of something to save this one, the next one is going to be more block like. This would allow him to be placed at more of an angle, and give a better flow path. The bubbles that kept sticking at the knees are catching on an overhand that the different angle would get rid of. And I'd put a wider channel to ensure that his feet were fully formed.

Something that might save things is to cut the toes out better, and maybe put an air channel at the knee like I did for the hand. Have to sleep on it.

Cast006.jpg
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
test a medium with longer curing time and knock out the bubbles

I think that's what I'll have to do. Unfortunately, my choices at hand are plaster of Paris, or water effects, neither of which would probably be a good choice. I've got a hectic two weeks coming up, so I probably won't have many further updates for awhile.
 

KameiRonin

New member
Alternate resins

Casting about for what to use (ha, ha), and came up with some Smooth-On Smooth Cast 300. Looks like it should do the trick, with a pot life of 3 minutes. But I'm definitely curious about this aluminum infused epoxy from Reynolds. It'd be kind of nice to pour a metallic mini.

You might want to check out Micromark as well. I've used their CR-300 resin with good results. It's very thin with a low viscosity so it captures details well. Also, are you using a mold release agent prior to casting? A bit of baby powder dusted into the mold before pouring the resin should help the resin flow and cut down on bubbles.
 

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
Thanks, KameiRonin and Rerclusiarch for the suggestions. And welcome, KameiRonin, to the forums. Not using a mold release because didn't really feel I needed it. And there may be bubbles trapped in the resin, but the resin was setting up too quickly to even manage to get them shaken up and out.

However, here's tonight attempt. Another trip to Hobby Lobby, and $10 later, new resin from the jewelry section. Amazing Casting Resin. Yeah, spare me the exciting name trying to make me moist. I did look at the Micromark, and both this and the CR-300 had about the same pot time, and set time, so figured they are more than likely very close if not the same material. But let's go to the photo evidence, shall we?

First pour. Very very runny resin, which is really what I wanted. So was very happy. Until....

FLASH WAS KNEECAPPED!

Cast007.jpg


But, I really didn't remember which way the toes were facing in the mold and was too enamored of the thin liquid to pay attention and actually vibrate the mold. So, redo time.

Alright! Except... no toes. Again.

Cast008.jpg


Fine, fine. Far be it from me to discard advice. Whip out the baby powder then. I seriously doubt that'll help in the slightest. The mold has issues, I tells ya!

Cast009.jpg


Uh, damn. That worked.

Presenting the first (successful) cast of Mr. Flash Juno. All hail the hypno toad! I also made sure to vibe it as much as possible. And keep the toes pointing down. So there's definitely a method to all this madness.

Yes, he's got a bit of flash. But I imagine that'll be something I improve upon. Might go to three rubber bands rather than the two I've got now. Maybe stronger ones, too. But for now, I'm satisfied. I'll probably clean up SN 001 to give him his first lick of paint, then start to make a production run.

And lets all take a quick moment of silence for all the previous Flash Junos, may they rest in their pieces.

CastAways.jpg
 
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