BloodFather's Axis of Chaos

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Sorry for the massive pictures. I am just testing something's out to see if there is anyway to upload smaller images from my iPhone. So far the answer is no obviously. Please tell me what you think so far. It's definitely WIP and I need to clean a lot up, but specifically wondering thoughts on the NMM, the leather, the blue
 
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Zab

New member
Forge on. I like where the nnm is going and that blue will be a nice contrast, very tzeentch like feel to the whole thing :)
 

Humanitarian

New member
I agree. Looks good so far.

FWIW, get a copy of GIMP if you don't have one already. Select all, then Image --> Scale Image (use the link to keep horizontal = vertical), followed by Tools --> Color Tools --> Levels, and then File --> Export As.

Easy way to rescale images. You can even select a part, then Image --> Fit Canvas to selection to chop it down.
 
My computer was recently stolen :( It may be awhile before I get a new one. Therefore, if it can't happen on the iPhone/iPad/Kindle, then it ain't happening. Of course, for finished products I'll use a friends or whatever I have to do. Thank you though! Good to know once I need it.
 
I must say, too, that neither picture does it justice. Once it's cleaned up, based up, and a better angle is found to capture all of the blends, it should look a lot smoother.
 

Humanitarian

New member
My computer was recently stolen :( It may be awhile before I get a new one. Therefore, if it can't happen on the iPhone/iPad/Kindle, then it ain't happening. Of course, for finished products I'll use a friends or whatever I have to do. Thank you though! Good to know once I need it.

Sorry about your computer. Check out Snapseed for idevices (free) or Photoshop touch or Photogene (not free, but both less than $10) I don't remember their resizing capability, although photogene does support levels.
 

Demihuman

Active member
I am no expert at NMM.... but, I think you should push your shadows all the way to dark brown, like what you have on the belt skuls 9Devlan Mud wash from gw is a good target for the darkest shadows maybe.) Then get the highlights all the way up to a spot of pure white. Try to keep the blends smooth, but more importantly I think, is to have the color modulation even and regular over the shape you are painting. So, a perfect cylinder reflects a perfectly straight line. i think the straightness of the line is more important then the smoothness of the blend.

A great trick for NMM gold is to shade from dark brown all the way to a spot of pure white with NO YELLOW. then go back and add a tiny bit of yellow either side of the white spot. Remember, yellow is an evil color. The less you use, the better off you are.

:)

I need a pentagram emoticon.
 
Thanks Demi. I understand that the NMM can look a bit off on this mini but a couple things I think are worth mentioning. My darkest highlight on the gold is a scorched brown with a tiny purple pin wash added to areas of it to darken it. If you look somewhere on page 1-2 of my WIP I actually did the shield with a different style of NMM gold, and many people thought it was TOO dark. It needed more mid tone, and this was my answer to that. Some people say NEVER highlight to pure white with gold. Others say NEVER use yellow except for a wash at the end, while others still say a light yellow should be the primary highlight. So basically, there is more than one way to skin this NMM kitty, I happened to choose the one where I take XV-88, or the closest thing to the old snakebite leather, and progressively add more and more Yriel Yellow to it until it's just yellow and ivory.

As as far as how the actual pattern of NMM works with lines on cylinders, etc, I followed the box art here. Basically, I am mimicking the GW metallic version with NMM. Also, this version of the model is a direct copy of Carlos B's model. Shameless, I know, but I really like his version. I didn't realize it until I was halfway done, but he also copied the box art with NMM as well. So I relatively happy with how the reflections are arranged with shadows here and highlights there. I do realize that it is a browner version than most.

Now I sound like a jerk that doesn't respond well to criticism. Lol...maybe it just looks kind of crappy cuz of how blown up it is. IDK, I admit that is just seems like it's not quite right....but I'm just not sure that darker highlights or less yellow is the answer. Word to yo Mama.
 

Demihuman

Active member
Now I sound like a jerk that doesn't respond well to criticism. Lol...maybe it just looks kind of crappy cuz of how blown up it is. IDK, I admit that is just seems like it's not quite right....but I'm just not sure that darker highlights or less yellow is the answer. Word to yo Mama.

It's all good in the 'hood. :)

You can always try different techniques on the next mini.

Peace in the middle east!
 
Yeah Ten Ball showed me a nice SBS awhile back that was very similar-if
not exact-to the way that you described. I very quickly tried it out on a shoulder pad and wasn't happy with the result. But I pick it up and look at it every now and again and I think I know where I went wrong with it.

Andy G uses a method similar to mine I think, but like you said he just glazes the yellow on at the end. I actually did a yellow glaze on this guy, but then sort of edge highlighted with an ivory yellow. I have another version where I shade it with a red brown. Looks nice. And another where I use a balor brown mixed with yellow as a mid tone. But what I am really trying to learn is the bright bright, high elf version you see with a lot of whites and brilliant yellows. If anyone reading this has a recipe I'd be glad to hear it.

Can't feed em? Don't breed em!!!
 

ten ball

Active member
Ive noted down on the photo places that need to go much darker and places that will need edge highlights. The edges will need to be real sharp and crisp - its these highlights that really make the NMM work.
Around the bolts etc needs to be near black. Im not saying this is the only / correct way but rather how I would go about painting the mini.

Noticed a nasty seam line on the foot. Make sure you have a well prepped mini, with a smooth undercoat before moving on. NMM if really unforgiving and im no where near mastering it but trust me the prep work must be perfect :)
On this Broga I have used the browns blended up with bleached bone, washed with purples and only using whites for the edges and extreme highlights. The yellow / gold look comes from only the thinnest glaze of yellow.
The deep shadows are near black adding to the contrast. Make sure you keep your paint thinned down letting each layer dry before the next.

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chaos spawn

Member
Sorry for the harsh words, but your NMM looks terrible. It doesn't look like gold, it looks like yellow and brown. The problem is: it looks to matte. The reason is your shading between the brown and yellow. If you want to have a shiny effect on the gold there should be no smooth shading or wet blending..whatever. You need hard separation from one colour to the other. Roughly you have to divide every surface into two areas: brown area (shadow) and yellow area. Inside each of the areas itself there might be some blending from darker to lighter tones, but the two areas should be separate from each other. No smooth changeover between yellow and brown regions. All edges should be light yellow and should in general be brighter than the yellow regions. On any rounded surface the yellow should become brighter to the point where it is closest to the viewer, the bigger the radius the smoother the blending should be. Do not use white at all or only on very sharp edges at one small spot (you can also gain this effect by using some glossy varnish on the edge).

Well that's the way I would do it.
 
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Canny

Active member
That's a good start, I feel the shield is closer a good NMM. Take on board 10 balls Know how, He hit me with the Contrast HAMMER and as soon as I realised what he meant you will never forget. So think, Contrast, Contrast, Contrast.

There are a few ways to imitate all metals, A smoother style like 10 balls image, and what Chaos spawn is talking about, a chrome like style. Chrome is another kettle of fish so don't worry about that style just now concentrate on what your working.

Guss has posted a youtube tute on gold NMM which I thought was pretty good, you don't need to go out and get the same colours just note what they look like and go from there, if you have them that cool too.

Nice work on the blues :)
 
That's a good start, I feel the shield is closer a good NMM. Take on board 10 balls Know how, He hit me with the Contrast HAMMER and as soon as I realised what he meant you will never forget. So think, Contrast, Contrast, Contrast.

Thanks Canny. The shield does look better, especially on the second pic where it's not supersiZed so much. Please note that the only other place on him where the gold is mostly complete are his shoulder pads. There are other spots where I've only base coated plus one shadow, or the collar for instance is actually bronze.

There are a few ways to imitate all metals, A smoother style like 10 balls image, and what Chaos spawn is talking about, a chrome like style. Chrome is another kettle of fish so don't worry about that style just now concentrate on what your working.

Actually, chrome is my friend. Look at my unfinished WIP:
http://s1329.photobucket.com/user/benjibaird/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsc6d215c1.jpg.html

Guss has posted a youtube tute on gold NMM which I thought was pretty good, you don't need to go out and get the same colours just note what they look like and go from there, if you have them that cool too.

Nice work on the blues :)

Good tutorial. More or less your standard gold. TBF, those aquilas always take to NMM so well :). Thanks for the link. I found it extremely helpful and I'll apply it.

Another thing worth noting, when I tac the shield I to his arm, everything sort of comes together and looks much more "right." Also, it's worth looking at what I am imitating.

http://www.coolminiornot.com/316390?browseid=9028631

I have a lot of work to do. I shall be unperturbed.
 
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Sorry for the harsh words, but your NMM looks terrible. It doesn't look like gold, it looks like yellow and brown. The problem is: it looks to matte. The reason is your shading between the brown and yellow. If you want to have a shiny effect on the gold there should be no smooth shading or wet blending..whatever. You need hard separation from one colour to the other. Roughly you have to divide every surface into two areas: brown area (shadow) and yellow area. Inside each of the areas itself there might be some blending from darker to lighter tones, but the two areas should be separate from each other. No smooth changeover between yellow and brown regions. All edges should be light yellow and should in general be brighter than the yellow regions. On any rounded surface the yellow should become brighter to the point where it is closest to the viewer, the bigger the radius the smoother the blending should be. Do not use white at all or only on very sharp edges at one small spot (you can also gain this effect by using some glossy varnish on the edge).

Well that's the way I would do it.

Somehow I missed your and Ten's remarks. No offense taken-at all. Appreciate every word. I think you are very correct about it's too matte, and it looks like brown and yellow. I think one of the problems is how the yellow came out. It some places it's a very soft puke yellow, and in a few it a glaring green yellow. And these aren't going to work together. I'm going to paint over much of this and start from scratch.

I do, however, disagree with a couple things you say. As far a a clear divide between yellow and brown, with no blending in between the two seperate colors, I think what you are describing is SENMM done on gold. Or maybe I am misunderstanding how you mean.

Yes, I am a believer that white should be used sparingly. Depending on the style of NMM.

But thank you for being dead honest with me. The only way I can improve.
 
Ive noted down on the photo places that need to go much darker and places that will need edge highlights. The edges will need to be real sharp and crisp - its these highlights that really make the NMM work.
Around the bolts etc needs to be near black. Im not saying this is the only / correct way but rather how I would go about painting the mini.

Noticed a nasty seam line on the foot. Make sure you have a well prepped mini, with a smooth undercoat before moving on. NMM if really unforgiving and im no where near mastering it but trust me the prep work must be perfect :)
On this Broga I have used the browns blended up with bleached bone, washed with purples and only using whites for the edges and extreme highlights. The yellow / gold look comes from only the thinnest glaze of yellow.
The deep shadows are near black adding to the contrast. Make sure you keep your paint thinned down letting each layer dry before the next.

Ten, this is unbelievably helpful, thank you. Can I ask, do you start with mid tone and then shade and lighten, or do you start with almost the darkest and lighten the whole way?

You know, I have wanted to go with the just add white to brown and glaze yellow method, but I just haven't had the balls. I've been afraid that it won't look gold enough, but I guess the off white highlights next to the yellow glaze takes care of that. Plus you have the benefit of having Ten Balls. :)

Prep work. You know, for some reason I thought that seam was a natural wrinkle in his boot. This being a finecast, I should have known. I'll take care of it and brush prime it after. It may look like a crappy undercoat, but it was zenithal highlighted, and so it may look like fuzzy white priming but it's the black showing underneath.
 
It's all good in the 'hood. :)

You can always try different techniques on the next mini.

Peace in the middle east!

Pardon me Demi. On 2nd thought, everything you said above is 100 percent correct. And while it is not the only way, it is the way that would be of the most use to me. Just took me a second to come around to it :)
 
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