BloodFather's Axis of Chaos

SkelettetS

New member
i dont get this new trend of not priming the minis,i see absolutely no benefit there at all, but hey hey everyone on thier own :)

i believe its hard to fairly judge the red armor without the gold painted, but it looks good to me.
 
You know what, DH, didn't even think about that but you make absolute sense here. I need to muck it up some, don't I? There WILL be excessive amounts of blood on the base when complete, but still, I need to #1 use some pigment powders maybe...and #2 perhaps sponge on some chipping here and there? But what would the under color be? Silvery maybe? The bronze will be getting both the verdigris oxide from GW and some slate green here and there.

Hmm....BAM heeeelp!
 
i dont get this new trend of not priming the minis,i see absolutely no benefit there at all, but hey hey everyone on thier own :)

i believe its hard to fairly judge the red armor without the gold painted, but it looks good to me.

Didnt realize it was a trend. Am I a trend setter then? :)

I explain it like this. When I did Goliath, I gave him a light and smooth prime. But Stephan Simon puts so many tiny details on his minis that I saw some of them disappear. Not the veins and scar tissue, but little ridges and muscle striations. I definitely, 100% without a doubt watched detail disappear, even from a cautios and thin priming. So this time around with his other figure I elected to forget the primer. The advantage is that I keep on the detail and it makes for smoother skin. The disadvantage is that, with as thin as I dilute, it can be frustrating getting those first 1-2 base layers down. But after that it's smooth sailing. Also, I use the chewed end of a tooth pick to rub over painting errors and erase them. Without primer, it takes every layer off if I do this.

On other sculpts without as much fine detail I will surely use primer. But after a risk/reward analysis I determined to forget it.
 

SkelettetS

New member
nah i believe sprocket are the trendsetter. you guy/s are only the hangarounds ;)

while i get you point ive had not such problem even with priming stephans miniatures, for me spray or airbrush primer is the safest way to get minimal impact on the surface. that said i prime very very gently, you can see the resin color through the primer.
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I think the red on the back looks good, nice deep shadows. And I like using the dark sea blue as a shadow color. I think the front could use a bit more contrast, more shadows and highlights. But as Skel says, without the gold it's a bit hard to judge.

What are you trying to do with the red? Is it supposed to be some red fantasy metal or red paint over armor? If you're going for more of a red metal finish then you should push the highlights more. I did a really extreme contrast red a while back in my thread. If I recall correctly I went from Burgundy Wine up through the bright reds (Andrea Red Set), then mixed in white to my brightest red. I then applied a couple layers of GW's Bloodletter Glaze to take the slightly pink highlights back to red, then touched up a few of the white highlights. Definitely a challenge. Best advice is keep the area where you leave the red (by adding white, yellow, skin tone, whatever) as small as possible. The red glazes will help, but large areas outside the traditional reds will skew the end result.
 

ten ball

Active member
I dont get the no priming thing either. Ive talked to Sproket about it before and it works for him, i find it envolves more time when starting the base coats.
 
nah i believe sprocket are the trendsetter. you guy/s are only the hangarounds ;)

while i get you point ive had not such problem even with priming stephans miniatures, for me spray or airbrush primer is the safest way to get minimal impact on the surface. that said i prime very very gently, you can see the resin color through the primer.

Nah you're very correct. I totally decided to do it after talking at length to Sprocket about it. Somewhere I wrote about my experiences with not "wearing protection" and I stated that, whether or not I decide to prime figures in the future, one thing I have definitely taken away from the whole experience is that very little primer is actually needed. From now on, just a dusting.

I'm telling you tho, don't knock it til you try it. :)
 

Digganob

New member
All this talk of priming vs no priming has destroyed my world of painting. Kind of like all my life I thought Pluto was a planet and then one day nope it's not. Haha
btw BFK I think those reds are amazing. I'm not a big fan of the mini but your making me look twice now.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Nah you're very correct. I totally decided to do it after talking at length to Sprocket about it.
I'm telling you tho, don't knock it til you try it. :)
Yeah tried it, works on Foulcrust, but it's not a process I'll continue to use, or even use again.
I'll stick to good and careful halfords grey, with a gentle touch of Tamiya Fine White.
 
Thanks for stopping by DR. May I ask what you mean by the touch of Tamiya after applying Halfords? Is the Tamiya not a true primer that you add on afterwards as a zenithal priming technique? Unsure of the purpose of your methods but curious...

Again want to make it clear that I chose not to prime because this mini fits the bill for it. And that the primary lesson learned for me is that the primer need only be the lightest dusting. I also offer my endorsement here for P3 primers. They seem to almost magically self level and are very smooth going on.

But I still strongly defend my methods here and declare them a success :)
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for stopping by DR. May I ask what you mean by the touch of Tamiya after applying Halfords? Is the Tamiya not a true primer that you add on afterwards as a zenithal priming technique? Unsure of the purpose of your methods but curious.
The Tamiya is a primer, but I find it a bit peculiar sometimes. It can be very smooth and unforgiving to paint over sometimes and then used as a "Zenithal" ( I hate the misuse of the term) highlighting can be Fantastic and a delight to paint on.
One thing I have found, it doesn't like some resin casts and just pooled like water droplets. Had to strip the whole figure back on more that one occasion.
 

Canny

Active member
I always wash and prime my minis. When priming its a mist of primer that you use, you dont cover the mini with a solid coat, that defeats the purpose of it, you need a tooth for the other coats.
 
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oistene

Active member
One thing I have found, it doesn't like some resin casts and just pooled like water droplets. Had to strip the whole figure back on more that one occasion.

I had the exact same thing happen with Vallejo White primer. Fortunately it was 'only' a terrain piece, so I didn't bother to strip it. I'm really vary around that primer now.
 

Demihuman

Active member
FWIW, I have been Airbrushing Reaper black primer on lately. I think I tend to be too heavy handed with the spray cans. The airbrushing can take a long a time but it is a good defense against my own impatience.
 
I really prefer the P3 primers, especially because it comes out of the can in a fan-shaped spray. This really allows you to put it on in thin, thin layers

in other news, before I left town I got some Scale75 paint sets in the mail. Not pictured is the steel alchemy set, which is on its way from a different distributor. I must say, love them. I especially am fond of the alchemy metallic set. Not just for the awesome metallic paints, but they come with four "alchemy" paints meant for glazing onto the metals. They are the sparkly, candy type paints. I don't have them in front of me now but their is s light purple one that is great for glazing on even NMM style golds. Love them all
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Gandalf the Grey

New member
I have the black and white set and just got the new unnatural skin set. These rea lot are excellent paints that I won't stop collecting. As someone who isn't an expert, I do find these easier to use as a blaze than vallego and GW.
 

Canny

Active member
I find the P3 paints better for most things. Not tried scale 75 paints. I have so quite a mixture now but don't need any more till I run out.
 
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