Moe's Random and Chaotic Wonderland.
- Thread starter moetle
- Start date
Chrispy
Active member
This bottom half is looking very much like Kurumu from Rosario + Vampire.. Except socks would be lighter and she usually has pink panties on. Watching any episode for 3 seconds gives you a panty shot.
That's why I'm watching it.. that and I loved the manga...
What were we talking about? Oh- yeah.. great work so far! Gotta ask- are you using CA gel or 2 part epoxy for gluing? Last time I tried a resin kit, her legs kept falling off despite pinning.
That's why I'm watching it.. that and I loved the manga...
What were we talking about? Oh- yeah.. great work so far! Gotta ask- are you using CA gel or 2 part epoxy for gluing? Last time I tried a resin kit, her legs kept falling off despite pinning.
wargamesculptor
New member
Looking good Sir ! excellent work on the patterning on the skirt
moetle
New member
@Chrispy Hi there. Loved your articles btw. This is Ryoufu Housen from the show Ikki Tousen. As for the glue, i use Zap a Gap on almost everything. Did you scrub her legs with simple green or some other degreasing agent ? I think you should go with the Carrera (Viper GTS) color scheme on your Vandella. Maybe you should start a wip too 
@WGS Thank you sir! It was a lot harder then it looks :/ In fact i messed up the back of it but the front looks great in the pics!
@WGS Thank you sir! It was a lot harder then it looks :/ In fact i messed up the back of it but the front looks great in the pics!
kathrynloch
New member
Looks good, Moe!
boubi
New member
Looks excellent... Can you explain the major difference between garage kit and mini painting? No high contrast, shadows, highlight... More natural (except for the hair) colors... It seems interesting and so different from fantasy/historical mini painting, but not sure I will take pleasure painting a garage kit... any pointers?
Chrispy
Active member
From what I read in Amazing Figure Modeler, you do need contrast, just not as stark as in mini painting. But if you think of it, from a MM's width, you could have a dramatic depth change versus larger scale stuff. You'd also think that 1;2 ratio stuff needs little/ no work since it would have all the natural shadows, but you need much much more detail in it. To me, the level of work you need to do is a reverse bell curve, with minis very high at one end and 1:1 ratio stuff on the other side. There's also the difference in Anime GK and other for detail. A predator vs. alien set is going to have TONS more detail than, say- a sailor moon figure. But luckily you can use an airbrush on the bigger stuff..
Didn't mean to hijack thread, but that's my take.
@Moetle- yes, I think I will try a WIP on Vandella.. once I figure out exactly how I'm going to paint her and with what. Gouache/ watercolors may be an option to explore too.
Didn't mean to hijack thread, but that's my take.
@Moetle- yes, I think I will try a WIP on Vandella.. once I figure out exactly how I'm going to paint her and with what. Gouache/ watercolors may be an option to explore too.
kathrynloch
New member
For me, the smaller the model, the more contrast it needs. So these larger scales are more subtle with highlights and shadows. I enjoy the change of pace because its so different. Keeps my hand/eye coordination honest. lol!
moetle
New member
@boubi- Chrispy and Kathryn pretty much covered it.
I didn't get much done this week. I didn't finish Ryoufu either. I'll have to finish her next week. I did however work on the roman bust a little:
His beard isn't so yellow in reality.
I wanted to play with some metallics. What better way then with a necron lord? Got him base coated:
Moe
I didn't get much done this week. I didn't finish Ryoufu either. I'll have to finish her next week. I did however work on the roman bust a little:
His beard isn't so yellow in reality.
I wanted to play with some metallics. What better way then with a necron lord? Got him base coated:
Moe
Chrispy
Active member
Have you heard of some of the chrome mirror finish airbrush paints? I've heard you need a gloss basecoat. I was going to get some for my guyver modles.. yeah, for the tiny chrome balls on them, but it may be of better use if you're doing a lot of larger scale metal things.
Just something to think about..
Just something to think about..
moetle
New member
@Chrispy Funny you should mention that. I know I'd really like to put a nice chrome style finish on Asagi's sword and a few other weapons from various kits. I've also recently read on a few different other WIP logs i frequent about these "polishing" paints. So i purchased these about a month ago:
However there is a pretty nasty warning label on one of them about causing cancer. So i am kinda hesitant to try them out.
@KB Thanks man. When you want to start the SW paintathon? Cause atm i think your going to win
However there is a pretty nasty warning label on one of them about causing cancer. So i am kinda hesitant to try them out.
@KB Thanks man. When you want to start the SW paintathon? Cause atm i think your going to win
Chrispy
Active member
Yeah, I've seen a Giger Alien bust's teeth done in buffing metalizers. They were so shiny, I thought they guy had replaced the resin teeth with metal ones! As for toxicity, I stopped worrying a while ago- unless something screams out that you need face protection when applying, I just rely on the garage/ shed's big open space and ventilation. I'm a strong believer is what doesn't kill me makes me stranger. I'm pretty sure that I've ingested paint that according to California causes birth defects.. so then I'll just have to have kids somewhere else than Cali..
KruleBear
Active member
As for toxicity, I stopped worrying a while ago- unless something screams out that you need face protection when applying, I just rely on the garage/ shed's big open space and ventilation. I'm a strong believer is what doesn't kill me makes me stranger. I'm pretty sure that I've ingested paint that according to California causes birth defects.. so then I'll just have to have kids somewhere else than Cali..
Too funny. I have been dealing with California's prop 65 hazardous chemicals list for a few years now. It is funny how a trace chemical that "may" be a problem has to be listed...unless it is in a higher consumable concentration in a product known as beer or wine. Then of course it is exempt.
@Moe...I say I am winning as I have two SD bases and a Samaritan primed
But watching the five month old gibbering mouther this morning puts a damper on painting. He can self entertain for 15 minutes then wants my undivided attention for an hour. Whoops the wife is up, need to go out and work in the garden now (aka hiding )
Zab
New member
Yes! You won't be disappointed. I bought the grey too before realizing I could mix white and black to make whatever shade of grey I wanted. Don't judge me -_- You can thin with water if you want when putting it in the airbrush and you may want to let it cure for about 8-12 hours after applying it to let it really bond and self level. It can be a bit fragile if you get right to work on it after spraying. Also where a mask so you don't inhale the over spray as it is a polyurethane (even though it's acrylic). I still haven't finished on my first 3 60 ml bottles yet and I have primed my whole DV box, and about 20 other minis too. It goes a long way. I may be a n=bit of a fan boy though
moetle
New member
Thanks Zab, I'll try it out here shortly.
Ok i don't know why but i have been prepping kits to paint. Not to paint them, but rather just to get them ready when the mood strikes me. That said, one of the kits i was prepping was a lineage 2 dark elf ORI kit. And then i decided to start on her.
This is her out of the box and 595859 layers of bubble wrap:
When you do these kits there are slug wells that need clipped and sanded. Sometimes they may seem like they are in a bad spot, but with light sanding it isn't so bad:
But don't go overboard on the sanding. I got a little carried away on the top of this leg :
Got everything puttied up here:
I used the white surface primer in 3 thin coats. I didn't have to add any water to it as it was just about right for me. I let them dry for a good 16 hours. I'm going to go for a ebony skinned dark elf as that is how I have always known them. You know? The ones from Menzoberranzan ? Or something of that nature. It was also a good excuse to use these colors for the first time:
posting that for my own records or for anyone else who may be curious as to what i use.
Basecoats:
Started the shading process:
More later
Base coat down for the skin:
Ok i don't know why but i have been prepping kits to paint. Not to paint them, but rather just to get them ready when the mood strikes me. That said, one of the kits i was prepping was a lineage 2 dark elf ORI kit. And then i decided to start on her.
This is her out of the box and 595859 layers of bubble wrap:
When you do these kits there are slug wells that need clipped and sanded. Sometimes they may seem like they are in a bad spot, but with light sanding it isn't so bad:
But don't go overboard on the sanding. I got a little carried away on the top of this leg :
Got everything puttied up here:
I used the white surface primer in 3 thin coats. I didn't have to add any water to it as it was just about right for me. I let them dry for a good 16 hours. I'm going to go for a ebony skinned dark elf as that is how I have always known them. You know? The ones from Menzoberranzan ? Or something of that nature. It was also a good excuse to use these colors for the first time:
posting that for my own records or for anyone else who may be curious as to what i use.
Basecoats:
Started the shading process:
More later
Base coat down for the skin:
TrystanGST
New member
I used those buffing metalizers back in my model building days. Great stuff.
