Sculpting project

minimaker

New member
I wouldn\'t stick to one putty, especially since we have so many mechanical parts. If it can survive the mouldmaking process the putty should be ok. Magic sculpt can survive the process (or at least leave a good cavity). If you have green around you could mix a little into the MS to make it stronger. I\'ll be using a similar mix for the guns (Milliput/GS or MS/GS).

Bye, Ming-Hua
 

minimaker

New member
Well, we discussed that in the thread and decided to go for a slotted base and do the terrain sculpting when we get around to painting.
 

minimaker

New member
Package arrived today and I hope to start on the weapons this week.

Just did a bluetack testfit with a Bullpup gun I had lying around:
angel_gun.jpg


Good thing we\'re going for a submachine gun. Those are a fair bit smaller :)

Question for the group: shall I go for a small size adapted gun or just make an 28mm normal size gun (at 25mm she\'s a young girl I guess).

Bye, Ming-Hua
 

Xavier

New member
Question for the group: shall I go for a small size adapted gun or just make an 28mm normal size gun.

Usually I like weapons that are not so exaggerated, however the size of her wings will dwarf a small gun. I\'m thinking a good size weapon will fit her best.
__
Xavier
 

Trevor

Brushlicker and Freak!
I would prefer smaller, but not too small, nicely proportioned and not oversized I guess.

Sheesh I don\'t want much do I?
 

Itchy

New member
i\'d say about 3/4 the size of the gun she\'s mocked up with should look nice... but i\'m fine with any size really.
 

Trevor

Brushlicker and Freak!
Can someone let me know what the total height and width of the mini is?

Also do we have a list of what materials its OK to use? For example can I sculpt bits seperately and then glue them on?

thanks
 

Itchy

New member
i\'m not 100% sure about materials, but i\'m sure Ming-Hua knows all about that (and everything else mini related:p). If you want to sculpt it seperatly, i\'d say instead of glue use a teeny tiny bit of GS to stick it onto the mini and you should be good to go.

Scale, i think she stands 25mm tall? Read it in this topic somewhere.
 

minimaker

New member
Origineel geplaatst door TrevorCan someone let me know what the total height and width of the mini is?
The armature is set for a figure that is 25mm high, floor to top of head. I\'d translate that as juvenile in 28mm. :) There is a scale in the picture I posted in an earlier post.

Also do we have a list of what materials its OK to use?
Any material that can withstand the vulcanised mouldmaking process. This takes place at around Fahrenheit/ 177 degrees Centigrade combined with a pressure of about 50PSI/ 3.45 bar. So, you\'re ok with most metals (avoid extreme low melt ones) and epoxy putties. Don\'t use plastics and hollow items.

For example can I sculpt bits seperately and then glue them on?
thanks
Yes, that\'s basicly what I\'m doing with the guns. They can be attached when the arms are done. To attach: use green stuff (more yellow, or warm the surface to make the material softer) or heat resistant epoxy glue. Don\'t use superglue. Some mouldmakers don\'t like it since it can desintegrate under heat.

Bye, Ming-Hua
 

Xavier

New member
Originally posted by Trevor
Also do we have a list of what materials its OK to use? For example can I sculpt bits seperately and then glue them on?

Hi Trevor,
For the material it is probably best to post what you plan to use. Just stay away from using plastic or wood.

I belive there is a plan to have this figure casted. So using glue is probably not a good idea. Maybe you can attached the peices using a pin then seal it with epoxy.
 

minimaker

New member
Hi, WIP shots:

gun1.jpg


Left to right, top-down: sketch, rolled putty sheet, cut to shape putty sheet, sheet filled flat, sketching on the putty and then filling and cutting in the details.

Next phase is to add the molded areas of the gun.

The gun is about 13mm(1/2\") at the moment. Going from the armature the girl\'s ideal length of pull would be about 5mm while the gun, made for a grown up, has 6.5mm. So it may be that I will shorten the stock later on.
 

minimaker

New member
gun2.jpg


Molded lower area of the gun has been sculpted and I changed the top. Next step is either to make a copy or to add the barrels. I\'ll have to see. Pistol is finished. It\'s largely hidden by the hand, so I won\'t add too many details.
 

Trevor

Brushlicker and Freak!
I\'ve made a base (which is also for the RR mini), which I have made a mould of. I\'m having problems with the RTV silicone rubber setting (as in its not), but hopefully I\'ll be able to do a cast tonight.

Its pretty simple, a round base with a broken, cracked wall and some rubble, leaves space for your own details (I thought a dead body would look good).

I\'ll post pics soon, its about 8cm accross, so should be large enough to cover her wingspan.

Any of the sculptors can have one at cost of materials and shipping.
 

Legacy Account

Active member
Try to get some catalyst booster for your RTV Trevor. It speeds up the setting time massively (down to around 3-4 hours for a totally hardened mould).
 
Fantastic work .. I\'ve been reading in the background here but I have to say I\'m intrigued by what I see going on here.

Thanks for posting those WIP of the scupts Minimaker ... really helped me see how folks like ya\'ll come up with this stuff. Never going to happen for me, but its a real treat to watch the progress.
 

minimaker

New member
Trevor, thanks for the offer. :)

Here is another gun update:
gun3.jpg


Making the metal parts. From left to right:
- Dip brass rod in etching ground (or use a black etching fluid resistant marker - less accurate though)
- Scratch away the area where you find the openings in the flash hider and put the rod in etching fluid.
- After etching.
- Thin the \"barrel\" using a drill as a lathe and turn the parts for the telescope. Stick it all together. (Gun mini stlightly damaged since this is after mouldmaking).

Right now I\'m about to etch some more barrels to use on the copies of the gun. Hope tho have it all done this week. Orb, can you PM me your address?
 

minimaker

New member
gun4.jpg

Next step. Since I intend to use the gun for more figures I decided to try to make a copy of it using a putty mould. This is a method I\'ve only used for one sided parts up till now so this was an experiment.

Left to right, up, then down. When I say talc this can be dusting with talcum powder or smearing with vaseline/lipbalm. Haven\'t yet figured out what works best.

- Talc flat surface and flatten a blob of putty on it. Talc the original.
- Press in the original. Make some holes as mould guides.
- Let cure, talc mould + original. Flatten another blob of putty and press it over the mouldhalf+original you already have.
- Let cure, remove original, talc the mould halves (whole inner surface of the mould, not just the cavity), add some putty.
- Press mould halves together and let the putty cure.
- Done. Remove copy (note, this is a new mould since the first one was damaged - hence the \"mirror image\" compared to the other pics) andclean up.
- Original, copy from mould, cleaned copy (barrel will be added in brass. Ugh, just noticed I need to rework the cartridge as well).

This was my first attempt and I think the method works ok for a two part mould but I will have to experiment to optimise the process. Main problem was that the copy tended to stick to the mould, especially if the mould was damaged. That\'s how the mould was damaged in the first attempt. It\'s a fairly fast way of making copies, especially if you can use a putty oven. Copies were far from perfect but good enough to use after some cleaning. Surface was uneven and this could be because of the talcum powder (either directly or because of enclosed air while curing in the oven. Things to try:
-Effect of normal opposed to oven curing.
-Material of the copy (I used a Milliput fine/green stuff mix).
-Moment of removing the copy (seemed to work best when not fully cured).
-Mould release agent (talcum powder/grease).
 
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