SkelettetS wip

finnpalm

New member
eh varför skyller alla på skolarbete nuförtiden? klippdejåskaffadejenajobbiställetvettja ;)

you have to be there though for the yearly speedpaint competition. hope they have one.

That I might be able to attend though. I'll try and drop by.

Och anledningen till att jag pluggar är ju att jag skall kunna få nåt jävla jobb sen. :D
 

ten ball

Active member
I'm well versed in many languages also in 18th art, poetry, greek philosophy, the universe, the breeding habits of the
Himalayan Yak.....
 

SkelettetS

New member
ok you guys lost me there... :D

did some water effect yesterday but i freaking hate liquid resin. no matter how much you seal the bloody thing still leak! i so much prefer the water effect i used on the toad duel (P 74), its a littlebit thicker and even if it takes equal time to totally harden, it start to set a little within 10 minutes. downside it smell like a chemical disaster. but fekk!!
turned out ok in the end though. at least i think so...
 

Alexandra

Active member
ok you guys lost me there... :D

did some water effect yesterday but i freaking hate liquid resin. no matter how much you seal the bloody thing still leak! i so much prefer the water effect i used on the toad duel (P 74), its a littlebit thicker and even if it takes equal time to totally harden, it start to set a little within 10 minutes. downside it smell like a chemical disaster. but fekk!!
turned out ok in the end though. at least i think so...

Know what you mean. I don't like resin myself, but found out that if you really have to work with it, the best way to seal is with silicone. If you do a box with acrylic sheet and cover the inside, from the seam to the top with silicone you'll prevent leaks. You can use the silicone tubes that are sold for windows and bathroom sealing.
 

SkelettetS

New member
no pics yet! i feel lucky i remembered to ducktape the whole sockel before i started though, lol!

thats another benefit with p74, as you can just pour a little as the bottom at first, and wait for it to set a little before you fill the whole thing up. even if it leaks a little, it will seal itself that way. i will probably use it in the future instead.
mrs will probably hate me though :D
 

DunErwit

New member
I am sure, all this is not really a secret for you :) But I'll just describe how I did it with my sewer:


Seal the base's / diorama's ground well, first. I used at least 2 (if I remember correct even 3) layers of thinned Enamel / Email matt varnish as ground sealing. Didn't trust acrylic varnishs there...

Then, don't forget other parts of the diorama which look like they seem to form a "natural" barrier for the resin, but might be a little permeable, e.g. (plaster) walls and the like on one or more sides of the basin. In my case, the walls are made of plaster, and there even are a couple of "larger" gaps and holes of 1-2mm diameter between the bricks. Additional to the varnish treatment, there has been no other chance to seal them than to use silicone for these gaps, one by one, as well.

Then, as Alexandra mentioned, (2mm) acrylic sheet for the side limits which I "glued" to the diorama already applying thin lines of silicone. Sealed all joints between diorama and acrylic sheets from the inside with a little silicone all around, using toothpick and screwdriver. Payed attention to really push the silicone into every gap and hole. Last, sealed all joints from the outside with (much) more silicone, now everything double and triple protected.

Well, finally controlled everything once again and again.
And I remember very well how nervous I've been when I poured the first resin filling into my sewer... :sweat:

Anyway, the process of sealing can become quite difficult, if the basin doesn't have a simple geometry. E.g. comparatively stiff acrylic sheet of 2mm thickness can only be used in case of straight borders, of course.


Perhaps it's also a question of the specific base / diorama or rather the way how it is built up. E.g. my sewer's modeled plaster ground is max. only 1mm thick - beneath, there's directly a solid hard wood fibre board, 3mm thick, which might have prevented any seepage even if the Enamel / Email coating on the coloured plaster didn't work in reality as expected.
Things may end up different if there's (only) (high) permeable material underneath the basin, which cannot be sealed easily, e.g. if it absorbs any varnish without effect...


Finally, after I did my first experiences with resin now, I can say I don't hate it. But of course it will always be and stay something I'll face with some attention and care... Who knows whether it will work always that good...?
 

SkelettetS

New member
okay some new photos.... i really hate this model! really... its one of those minis i can paint on forever but never going to be happy with. ill probably donate/lend it to the GW store after the competition just to get rid of it. uäääh!

water effect turned out ok enough for this


some crapshots just before i went to work. have to work as teasers though (like all my photos - d'oh!) , as you can see they are pretty f*cked up ;) everything is pretty much done except the chain on the banner andsome wooden parts there. and some weathering on the banner.




some more work is required on the base though, more vegetation...etc.
 
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