BloodFather's Axis of Chaos

[Digganob]

So this was unexpected. http://pkking.com/

 

[BloodASmedium]

Great work on the skin.strong strong comeback if I ever saw one.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Great work on the skin.strong strong comeback if I ever saw one.

Thank you my brotherfromadifferentmotherkindoflikemelgibsonanddannyglover.

I will push the contrast on the skin a bit more too. For his hair, I went graying, with white on the sides and widow's peak. I think it makes him scarier. Not altogether happy with it yet though so I am saving pics until I get more done all over him.

 

[Canny]

whoa that skin is looking fantastic! nice work.

 

[Gandalf the Grey]

No denying the dude is back

 

[BloodASmedium]

Excellent idea to push the contrasts further especially the colors you've chosen will undoubtedly make this a more technically sound piece.great job so far...lol danny glover...Guys freakin crazy...lol love ya brotha..

 

[Demihuman]

So this was unexpected. http://pkking.com/

Haha,

"Hey Lady, you need to really push the contrast on that bougainvillea, plus I can see some heavy brushstrokes on the on that garden gate. Probably need to thin your paints more."

That beasty reminds me a bit of the chaos deflier. I used to really want to paint one of those. Now, not so much. That manticore thing looks pretty challenging. I think that could certainly be a big piece for you. I think the trick is to make it your own with your painting and your basing dude. Go crazy with the base, tell a story. Also keep it away from your dog... too soon? /ducks

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Haha,

"Hey Lady, you need to really push the contrast on that bougainvillea, plus I can see some heavy brushstrokes on the on that garden gate. Probably need to thin your paints more."

That beasty reminds me a bit of the chaos deflier. I used to really want to paint one of those. Now, not so much. That manticore thing looks pretty challenging. I think that could certainly be a big piece for you. I think the trick is to make it your own with your painting and your basing dude. Go crazy with the base, tell a story. Also keep it away from your dog... too soon? /ducks

Swings. Throws out shoulder. OUCH!!

Thanks everyone. Skin is a lovely thing to paint, isnt it? Its such a delicate art. I like to use ultra thin layers. The base coat is all about pushing an even coat over the entire surface. Spread it all out like butter on toast. Don't leave clumps. Then kiss in your colors. Gentle and barely perceptible at first. Bolder and smaller as you go. Such a treat. In this case, and possibly other cases in the future, I did not prime. I got stingy like that. I want all the surface to myself.

Would like to give oils a try, and will likely use them on the skin and the cloth of my future 54mm Gokan project. I think I'll order some burnt umber, sienna, titanium white, lamp black, cadmium red, and a nice blue for starters. I have been researching exstensively, and from what I have learned it goes like this: with a nice clean brush, take some properly thinned oil paint onto my brush and apply it in small, select area. Next, take a stipple type brush and massage the oil across the surface. If you grow impatient and want it dried quickly, use a variety of methods to do this. Otherwise, just let it air dry for 24 hours. Then, apply some spray varnish over the entire mini. Now add some higher and lower colors in acrylic. Then go back and forth with oil with varnish and acrylic until you reach an endstate. You got to be brave in this game if you want to grow...

...I have a lock box that my important stuff goes into now. WIPs, WN brushes, etc...that little acident WON'T happen again.

 

[Bailey03]

For quicker drying of oils you can make a oven/hot box using a light bulb (one of the old fashioned ones, not the new energy efficient kind) and a cardboard box. I'm sure you could find some more detailed how-to posts with a little googling. I recall someone saying drying your oils this way caused more of a matte finish as opposed to satin, but I could be remembering incorrectly.

An alternative is to use an actual oven however that is not without some dangers...
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2011/11/calming-music-some-advice.html

Of course any sort of heat related drying is probably best used on metal figures. With a resin one like Gokan I'd be very careful applying heat. It doesn't take much for parts to start to bend and sag.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Ah, thanks for the info, especially about the matte finish. So many oils and additives advertise a gloss finish; this must be preferred with this medium, because I just don't see much offering a matte finish. However, other than the potential for a matte finish, I don't see drying time as being much of a problem for me. Too often during the week lately I only have about an hour to paint and then I don't touch the mini for a day or three. So this will work out for me in most cases, where I can just apply a level of shadows and lights and then leave it to dry a couple of days before I can come back to it anyway. There are times that the drying time could be a problem, but I will just try to plan ahead so that oils go on during the busier work week. Or I could always work on the base or another project if I was really itching to move forward.

Massive Voodoo had a great video on painting with oils that taught me a lot...it was a strange mini, he had cartoonish proportions, appeared about 70mm, and carried a fishing pole. But the oils really added a lot to the figure...or so I thought.

Really, really want to see you try some oils out. That way the rest of us could learn a thing or two from your subsequent tutorials. Be brave, like the warriors you paint, and venture forth with another weapon at your disposal...

 

[dennis.]

lukas 5 medium, wonderful matte, thin with genuine turpentine as it comes as a paste, dries overnight to a rock hard matte resin finish I would not recommend heat treating oils as they dry by chemical reaction rather than heat and drying the surface rapidly will cause crazing a year down the line.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Well, the last thing I need is my miniatures going crazy at any moment

Thanks for the tip on that product. Is that what you use on your miniatures?

Wife just bought me an incredible art book on color theory for achieving a long-awaited personal goal. It is just full of good information and makes me want to use some oils even more. Very informative about saturation, the use of black and white or earth colors. I think it's just what I needed!!!

 

[dennis.]

Yes bro, be really careful to clean your brushes immediately if you do buy some (and it's a very good price) as it is not soluable with turpentine when dry. Many mini painters may have been put off by the labelling as an impasto gel, but it was a student of the Rijksakademie in Amsterdam put me on to it ( the academy specialises in the development of paint and mediums, a sort of alchemists castle!). It really was questioned as the greatest ever medium for oil. As I mentioned, it can be thinned to use as a glaze medium, if you can get double rectified turpentine it is the preference but genuine turpentine is fine.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Is there a rule of thumb for how much of the turp to use to thin the medium? What kind of consistency do I want it?

I am taking your advice and getting Michael Harding oils, and I will also look for the medium you speak of, AND use the double rectified type. I do have some WN glaze medium. That stuff any good IYO? I've read that some artists apply the pigment straight onto the mini, no diluting. For example, some would apply some lamp black in the dark shadow of a black at, no diluting the oil first. Any thoughts on this? Sounds like I should start a new thread just concerning only oil painting...lol. Hope others find some of my questions of some use on their own projects.

 

[dennis.]

There's no rule of thumb for thinning Lukas5, I thin it so that it is perfectly fluid, I'd suggest you just do some trials with it on a primed piece of car or something until you have a fluidity that suits your style. You can then add your tube paint to it in as much or as little as you desire for opacity or translucency. Wet blending is a piece of cake, just mix a few colours, add the same amount of medium to each individually to maintain consistency. Lamp black is a good deep black, tends to matte, there are a multitude of blacks all with differing temperatures, some blue hues, some brown. Spinal black is black. Lamp black will actually deepen with the amount of layers you use.

W&N do some excellent mediums, fine detail liquin is a favourite and dries quickly in thin glazes, 24hrs approx., no need for dilution, infact it destroys it's properties, but a very high gloss finish, good to have just for that reason!!

Good luck, Michael Harding, your sorted for tube colour. As for pigments, they need a binder or they just fall off, apply onto your medium may work but I don't know as I've never tried, let us know if you try it out

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

I'm sorry I should have been more specific. When I say some artists apply the "pigment" straight without diluting, I am not referring to pigment powders without a binder. I mean to say that some artists will not mix their oil paint with a medium, but rather go straight from the tube. And then I gave an example of when I heard this might be appropriate. Just wanted your thought on this subject ...

 

[dennis.]

Ok, tube paint, it's basically pigment and oil binder, with MH paints your getting the best oil and pigment with no other fillers for the most of his range. Great stuff, but straight from the tube it will need a long time to dry. The only benefit I can see is a few days working time, downsides are a plenty, the paint seems to be a dust magnet, you'll need to put it in a dust free zone, usually about 8 ft from the floor, flies too seem to like it, get stuck in it, honest, I use tweezers going back to canvases in summer Not using a medium also means not being able to use a varnish for a minimum of 6 months drying time. Really not going to recommend this route, very few canvas painters would, and also you will find the heavy body of MH paints difficult to apply without stroke marks on a mini surface

 

[Digganob]

Hey BFK do you have a link to any of DKKings stuff for sale or a gallery of his?

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Hey BFK do you have a link to any of DKKings stuff for sale or a gallery of his?

The only thing I can say is his FB page:
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...06246248011.-2207520000.1417902635.&source=42

His old website is down. I emailed him recently for a better place to purchase his wares, but haven't heard back. If you google him you can find some of his fans and see examples of his work, especially pre-2010 stuff. Problem with his FB is that it's written all in Mandarin (?). Take a look at his photos though. Sift through them, as you can tell he also produces a line of toys, but there is some of is GK work in there that I've never seen sold online. Just amazing stuff.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Ok, tube paint, it's basically pigment and oil binder, with MH paints your getting the best oil and pigment with no other fillers for the most of his range. Great stuff, but straight from the tube it will need a long time to dry. The only benefit I can see is a few days working time, downsides are a plenty, the paint seems to be a dust magnet, you'll need to put it in a dust free zone, usually about 8 ft from the floor, flies too seem to like it, get stuck in it, honest, I use tweezers going back to canvases in summer Not using a medium also means not being able to use a varnish for a minimum of 6 months drying time. Really not going to recommend this route, very few canvas painters would, and also you will find the heavy body of MH paints difficult to apply without stroke marks on a mini surface

Hmm, maybe you are thinking of these oils being used in a more traditional sense. I have now read quite a few tutorials where the artist suggests taking an oil, undiluted and without any medium, and applying the smallest amount onto a miniature. They then will apply a dry brush or a stipple brush to the mini and spread this already minuscule amount of oil paint out. Dried quickly, from their description. Make sense to you at all?