BloodFather's Axis of Chaos
- Thread starter BloodFather of Kharnath
- Start date
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Reset!!! NMM mode...ACTIVATE!!!!
My decision to do this did not come easy. The TMM was coming out pretty good, I daresay even near as good as my NMM. However, there is a certain combo of gold, bronze, and steel that I want to use that I think will look more effective using my known recipes.
If you haven't noticed, he has an all metal overcoat. So, I plan to do it like this:
Panels on back: Copper with gold trim
Lapels and collar: Gold
Strips that travel along his ribs: Steel
Arms:Steel
Gun: Steel with gold banding. Trigger housing and butt stock are wood and gold.
Sword:Steel and gold
Gear at shoulder: Copper
As you can see, with this much metal I need my A game.
My decision to do this did not come easy. The TMM was coming out pretty good, I daresay even near as good as my NMM. However, there is a certain combo of gold, bronze, and steel that I want to use that I think will look more effective using my known recipes.
If you haven't noticed, he has an all metal overcoat. So, I plan to do it like this:
Panels on back: Copper with gold trim
Lapels and collar: Gold
Strips that travel along his ribs: Steel
Arms:Steel
Gun: Steel with gold banding. Trigger housing and butt stock are wood and gold.
Sword:Steel and gold
Gear at shoulder: Copper
As you can see, with this much metal I need my A game.
Last edited:
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Okay, sort of seeking inspiration on Launcelot. While I love the mini, I really need to figure out how I am going to paint him. I keep going back and forth on how I should do things. I'm just worried that the gold, steel, copper combo may not work out, and not sure what colors to paint all of his clothing. One second I want to do one thing, the next so change mind. Now that I am painting him in NMM I realize that I was having fun learning metallics. Basically, I am not too good at making decisions right now, both on my pallet and in life (where to move, which university to attend law school) etc etc
So, because of this inability, it's time to finish Cannibal. Standby, he will be complete this weekend...
So, because of this inability, it's time to finish Cannibal. Standby, he will be complete this weekend...
Bailey03
Well-known member
Well, there are a lot of perks to living in CA (especially SoCal). But both the LA area and the SF/SJ bay area have a decent mini painting community. And lots of schools to choose from. Oh wait, you were probably just looking for advice on the figure...
I tend to avoid mixing too many metals on the same figure. Although Lancelot is a figure that probably would benefit from multiple metals. Keep some semblance of reason to the metal choices. Normally that coat and hat would be brown, so try copper and then gold for the details. Then silver for his armor shirt and helmet. But, for each piece, I'd go with either yellow metal or white metal. I wouldn't mix them on the same part. Does that make sense?
I'd also use the same main shadow tone for the gold, copper, and silver. That will help tie everything together. You can use some glazes on top of it to help distinguish them from one another if needed, but you'd still have that unifying base to start. It's definitely a tough project to figure out, but that's how I would approach it.
I tend to avoid mixing too many metals on the same figure. Although Lancelot is a figure that probably would benefit from multiple metals. Keep some semblance of reason to the metal choices. Normally that coat and hat would be brown, so try copper and then gold for the details. Then silver for his armor shirt and helmet. But, for each piece, I'd go with either yellow metal or white metal. I wouldn't mix them on the same part. Does that make sense?
I'd also use the same main shadow tone for the gold, copper, and silver. That will help tie everything together. You can use some glazes on top of it to help distinguish them from one another if needed, but you'd still have that unifying base to start. It's definitely a tough project to figure out, but that's how I would approach it.
Demihuman
Active member
It is a tough figure to figure out 
I think I would go for a couple of different tones of grey and just a few gold trim pieces. I like the TMM you have going. I think TMM tends to be a little grittier which works good for this character. Maybe you need to do two? NMM and TMM!
Might be fun to do some chipped paint on those big panels.
I think I would go for a couple of different tones of grey and just a few gold trim pieces. I like the TMM you have going. I think TMM tends to be a little grittier which works good for this character. Maybe you need to do two? NMM and TMM!Might be fun to do some chipped paint on those big panels.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
@Bailey: We are looking at Florida somewheres more than likely. Or at least the Southeast of the country. Want to get closer to home-a day's drive-rather than a five day drive currently. Originally from Columbus, Ohio.
I think we are of the same mind with the metals. I really want the jacket to be primarily copper, because of the brown, but if I make his lapel gold and his rib armor steel, the jacket won't have the appearance of being copper from the front at all. Is this what you mean by try to keep them the same type of metal? Perhaps it's wise to keep it all copper then...with gold edging. Yes, I like this. Which introduces this Segway:
@Demi- I had a lot of fun experimenting with the metallics, and I am looking at the work of people like SkeletetteS and Megazord, who show how it should be done. However, the one thing keeping me from doing TMM is that I know I couldn't duplicate the success I have with copper NMM with TMM. And since copper will feature so predominantly on the figure...well, you get it.
@KB-I wish....I truly do...
I think we are of the same mind with the metals. I really want the jacket to be primarily copper, because of the brown, but if I make his lapel gold and his rib armor steel, the jacket won't have the appearance of being copper from the front at all. Is this what you mean by try to keep them the same type of metal? Perhaps it's wise to keep it all copper then...with gold edging. Yes, I like this. Which introduces this Segway:
@Demi- I had a lot of fun experimenting with the metallics, and I am looking at the work of people like SkeletetteS and Megazord, who show how it should be done. However, the one thing keeping me from doing TMM is that I know I couldn't duplicate the success I have with copper NMM with TMM. And since copper will feature so predominantly on the figure...well, you get it.
@KB-I wish....I truly do...
Bailey03
Well-known member
Ah, well Florida is nice too. Plus it's within driving distance to Atlanta for their yearly figure show each February.
Yeah, that's essentially what I meant by the same type of metal. There's a lot of detail in the jacket, but switching back and forth between a yellow and a white metal would make it too busy in my opinion. If you keep the jacket copper and then use gold for the details I think it will read better. You can mix in a little bit, say steel for the rivets if you want, or some gold details in the arms (assuming those are mostly silver). I'd just avoid parts being split 50/50 between yellow and white. Better to have a part (like the jacket or hat) 90% yellow metal and then just a few silver details. But you can figure that out as you go along.
Yeah, that's essentially what I meant by the same type of metal. There's a lot of detail in the jacket, but switching back and forth between a yellow and a white metal would make it too busy in my opinion. If you keep the jacket copper and then use gold for the details I think it will read better. You can mix in a little bit, say steel for the rivets if you want, or some gold details in the arms (assuming those are mostly silver). I'd just avoid parts being split 50/50 between yellow and white. Better to have a part (like the jacket or hat) 90% yellow metal and then just a few silver details. But you can figure that out as you go along.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Very good point. I'm glad I put my queries out there then because thinking about what you say I totally agree. Thanks for helping me see this! I always feel blessed to have this WIP when I can be completely uncertain about how to proceed and then I can talk with the experts and come away feeling confident in my decisions.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Wanted to talk about a couple things on the recipe front. If you've followed this thread at all, or seen my questions to other artists, you'll know that I am kinda big on trying out certain artists recipes and/or techniques, possibly altering them and making them my own. That's not to say that I never do anything original, or that I confine myself to recipes, I just find that if I like a particular gradient or finish an artist achieves, I will normally be surprised to hear what actual colors they used. For the inexperienced like myself, it is often difficult to guess what tones were used for a particular effect. The reasons for this are plenty; many artists use glazing to slightly tint an undertone to achieve a whole new color. Or the very nature of mixing paints can bring unpredictable results. Mixing an off white versus mixing a pure white with a color will bring dramatically different results. So for these reasons I am always refining my recipes and I'd like to share a change I have made to an old recipe, and a new recipe altogether.
Copper NMM:
1)Base entire surface with old Citadel Vermin Brown: Ratskin Flesh at 2:1.
2)Begin shading by taking out more and more Ratskin from the mix, until pure Vermin. This can be one step or ten steps, depending on surface size and desired transition smoothness.
3) Create a very diluted glaze of Rhinox Hide, previously Scorched Brown. Glaze the deepest shadows in this manner, by brushing towards the darkness. Add more layers in areas that you want to be the darkest. It's ok to glaze the scorched brown all the way up to your mid tone, but just don't exceed one layer of barely perceptible glaze in this area. It should build up and get thicker and darker the more you move towards shadow areas.
4) Begin highlighting by moving more and more to pure Ratskin by removing the Vermin from the mix. Likewise, this can take one or ten steps.
5) Highlight more by adding VMC Ivory, or an equivalent off white, to rhe mix.
6) In a few select places, add an almost pure Ivory make your bling bling points. I dont go pure white here because I don't believe copper is as reflective.
Boom on goes the dynamite. The big change for me here was using vermin brown rather than bestial brown (or Mournfang Brown). His brown has a lot of red in it and so has a lot of potential with the Ratskin.
More to follow. Got to run but next I will discuss a genius way of doing TMM gold.
Copper NMM:
1)Base entire surface with old Citadel Vermin Brown: Ratskin Flesh at 2:1.
2)Begin shading by taking out more and more Ratskin from the mix, until pure Vermin. This can be one step or ten steps, depending on surface size and desired transition smoothness.
3) Create a very diluted glaze of Rhinox Hide, previously Scorched Brown. Glaze the deepest shadows in this manner, by brushing towards the darkness. Add more layers in areas that you want to be the darkest. It's ok to glaze the scorched brown all the way up to your mid tone, but just don't exceed one layer of barely perceptible glaze in this area. It should build up and get thicker and darker the more you move towards shadow areas.
4) Begin highlighting by moving more and more to pure Ratskin by removing the Vermin from the mix. Likewise, this can take one or ten steps.
5) Highlight more by adding VMC Ivory, or an equivalent off white, to rhe mix.
6) In a few select places, add an almost pure Ivory make your bling bling points. I dont go pure white here because I don't believe copper is as reflective.
Boom on goes the dynamite. The big change for me here was using vermin brown rather than bestial brown (or Mournfang Brown). His brown has a lot of red in it and so has a lot of potential with the Ratskin.
More to follow. Got to run but next I will discuss a genius way of doing TMM gold.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Up in the air, really. It depends a lot upon where a school is that my classes will transfer over to well, because I am a senior by semester hours. So I need an area that I can buy a house that is near both an undergraduate program and a law school. Right now thinking around the Jacksonville area to the Flotida State U. area in Tallahassee. Love Florida. Where r u at?
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Contacted Seb Archer, the sculptor of Launcelot, and he shared with me not only the fluff behind the figure, which points strongly at a color scheme, but he also shared with me the artwork that inspired the sculpt, and he even gave me a file showing the reccomended color pallet. So I plan to do justice to the fluff from the Twisted game and paint him in accordance with the Servants of the Engine faction. Emerald, silver, purple, gray-green. Feel rejuvenated and re-energized.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Looks like we shall meet one day, Digga!
BTW-I am still painting, I swear. Ground work for Cannibal proceeding as planned. Happy with the copper gate. Statue still to receive additional weathering.
BTW-I am still painting, I swear. Ground work for Cannibal proceeding as planned. Happy with the copper gate. Statue still to receive additional weathering.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Thanks guys. Kind of a crappy picture. Lost some of the contrast too by applying the verdigris. But I do have an excellent recipe for verdigris I'd love to share:
Take GW Nihilahk Oxide. This is their light blue green verdigris tech paint. But we are going to add some pigments to it. Take a generous heap of Secret Weapons pigment to the paint. Start with SW Faded Blue. This is about the same color as the Oxide paint. Put a nice pile of it into the paint and mix it up. The paint should almost all absorb into the pigment. Apply it onto the area in question. Let dry. Now apply SW Slate Green, either by itself or fix with a pigment fixer. Apply selectively in just a few areas to leave a nuanced appearance.
The above recipe will leave a nice textured verdigris. It actually looks like verdigris would after it collects for years, rather than just a painted on turqoise. Try it!!!
Take GW Nihilahk Oxide. This is their light blue green verdigris tech paint. But we are going to add some pigments to it. Take a generous heap of Secret Weapons pigment to the paint. Start with SW Faded Blue. This is about the same color as the Oxide paint. Put a nice pile of it into the paint and mix it up. The paint should almost all absorb into the pigment. Apply it onto the area in question. Let dry. Now apply SW Slate Green, either by itself or fix with a pigment fixer. Apply selectively in just a few areas to leave a nuanced appearance.
The above recipe will leave a nice textured verdigris. It actually looks like verdigris would after it collects for years, rather than just a painted on turqoise. Try it!!!
