My Long Absence
I've got to apologize to all my die-hard fans (haha). I've been away from the minis for quite awhile. But I promise you, it is not wasted time. I've just fallen in love with oils, and I forgot that I am actually kind of skilled at drawing. I haven't drawn anything for, oh maybe 25 years, so I am surprising myself with my own proficiency. The learning curve is actually painting oil over this. But the same thing applies in 2d art as miniature painting-putting values in the right place, painting shapes to reflect shadow and highlight, using chiascuro, pushing the contrast. One technique supports the other, regardless of the medium.
I am currently working on two projects, but eventually I'll get more complicated and do more complex fantasy scenes along the lines of Vallejo or Bonner. But for now, it's portraiture, and I am currently painting a picture of my wife's recently deceased and much adored Grandmother. It's a black and white from 1957, and I think the monochrome painting will support my growth. This is an 11"x14" canvas.
My next project is a picture of one of my sisters when she was 1-2 years old. She is wearing a dress with angel wings, seated with a doll in her hand. This will be full color and 24"x32", so quite large
My process is the old Flemish technique. It involves several layers glazed over each other. I'll list the steps:
1. Draw the scene/portrait with a soft pencil or charcoal. Include some basic values. Go over this drawing with India ink or another similar waterproof pigment. Do not heavily shade anything, just a few hash lines here and there to identify values and shadow shapes. Let dry.
2. Imprimatura. Tone the canvas. You want it to ultimately be slightly lighter than your mid tone. I take burnt umber and mix with yellow ochre normally. Thin with turp and a touch of linseed oil. After you've spread it across the canvas, and it appears choppy and uneven and full of brush marks, wipe away excess with a lint-free rag. Let dry. Don't forget to use colors that dry quickly here. The addition of Damar varnish or some alkyds can help speed drying time.
3. Umber underpainting. Now you are going to take burnt umber and treat it like a water color. You are going to place very basic values with you umber, putting it on thickest in the deepest shadows, then feather out into lighter shadows and the mid tone. The the imprimatura layer be the mid tone here for the most part, and leave highlighted areas alone. This layer is like water color in that the paint is diluted heavily with turp and the paint is most thinned out in the weakest shadow areas.
4. Grisaille. Make a full range of monochrome values. Some choose a neutral gray, other go with a greenish or bluish tint. The former tended to be used by the Dutch masters, while the latter was practiced by the Italians. Lamp Black paint tends to be bluish when mixed with white. I usually go neutral, with burnt umber mixed equally with lamp black, then more and more white added. Make a range of 7 tones from darkest to lightest. It is best to have a black and white photo of your painting so you can hold your paint up to the photo to match it. Thin with turp and linseed oil. Let dry after painting in full detail. Exaggerate the area of highlights.
5. Now start your layers of color. Carefully glaze each layer onto your painting, using wet on wet blending where appropriate. Go thin in the shadows and thick in the light area. Use your tonal map from the grisaille layer as a guide. You are painting the same thing but in color now. Let each layer fully dry before the next is applied.
Thats it. Six months to a year later you can varnish it.
I feel like oils is giving me more confidence with my mini painting. I now feel like I can look at a color or tone on a picture or example and duplicate the look. I also truly understand what James Wappel means by his shaded basecoat texhnique now. He gets it from the Flemish Technique, more or less. Very cool.
If anyone needs advice or help with introducing themselves to oils, I am glad to help. Pictures to follow this week and next.