Sproket's WIP

I'm sorry that this is off topic, but I just had to say it here because I just went to GWs website to look up this Haemonculus. And my question is this: Is it arrogant of me to be furious when a drop down menu places the United States with the other "U" countries, instead of at our rightful spot at the top of the list? It makes me want to make war with all those other countries before us.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
I'm sorry that this is off topic, but I just had to say it here because I just went to GWs website to look up this Haemonculus. And my question is this: Is it arrogant of me to be furious when a drop down menu places the United States with the other "U" countries, instead of at our rightful spot at the top of the list? It makes me want to make war with all those other countries before us.
Being honest, Yes it is arrogant.
Your country is the United States of America, just as I reside in the United Kingdom, not just England.
And I am sorry to say it is that attitude which has tarnished the regard of the United States.

http://www.listofcountriesoftheworld.com
 
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:) I am being silly, DR, and assuming the role of the "greater-than-thou" American that many in the world (rightly?) expect to exist. And I wasn't playfully implying they should be at the top because of the letter "A," but rather out of convenience for American commerce. :)

...that being said, on the other end of the spectrum, I am no apologist (see Obama). I am no less proud of my country's achievements and leadership than W. Churchill was of the British Empire.

Just a silly thought that crossed my mind when I went to the GW website, which always asks me where I am from via a drop down menu.

'Murica!
 
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Sproket

New member
Can I really paint a single mini, from start to finish and to competition standard, in two weeks! I'll let you know around the 12th - about the same time as I find out myself!

The mini was purchased, cleaned (It's got a lot of very small detail!:tremble!:) assembled and base coated over the weekend. I even got a start on painting some of the robes. Last night I painted the face and began to properly enjoy working on the mini (I hate prep work). It's a good start but achieving speed & quality is a challenge.

I'm not going to be able to post many updates on this project as I'm totally committed to painting every spare moment I've got. This week I'm at work so I can probably manage the occasional lunch time posting. But next week I'm on leave and will be 100% committed to painting the Haemonculus.
 

aniku

Member
Hi,

Quality fast painting!!!!!! Some people say that if you go to a cross road and find an old guy walking over there you can ask him to be able to paint really fast and with a Golden Demon level. But everything has a price...

Many thanks,
Mariano.
 
Here are the colours I’ve used for the NMM on CHee-Chee.

All of my NMM is highlighted with ivory. Keep white to an absolute minimum and use it only for the smallest & most extreme highlights to give your NMM a glint.

View attachment 24356
Copper
Base colour: Mournfang Brown/Ratskin Flesh mix
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Ratskin Flesh
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

The key colour for the copper is Ratskin Flesh. I like my copper to have a pinkish tinge to it and Ratskin Flesh gives me exactly what I’m looking for.

View attachment 24352
Gold/Brass

Base colour: Mournfang Brown/Iyanden Darksun mix
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Iyanden Darksun
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

For the mid tones pick a muted yellow ochre and avoid too bright a golden yellow colour. I get a more pleasing (to me) result in all my NMM if I keep to a muted palette and steer clear of bright colours in the mix.

View attachment 24353
Bronze
Base colour: Mournfang Brown
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Iyanden Darksun
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

This uses the same colours as the gold but mixed to create a muted & darker effect. The mid tones use a lot more Mournfang Brown in proportion to the Iyanden Darksun. I wanted my bronze to have a dark patina so I restrict the brighter areas to where the metal would be polished by wear & tear.

View attachment 24354
Iron/dark steel
I’ve used a conventional mix of cool greys but the addition of a little Thunderhawk Blue really gives the colour a lift.

View attachment 24355
Verdigris
The idea is to create a stained look with tidemarks left behind as the paint dries. The exact opposite of what you would normally do when applying a wash!
I’ve used a dilute mix of Ivory and Hawk Turquoise applied as a wash and allowed to pool where you want the verdigris. As the wash begins to dry dab in a little more of the un-mixed but diluted ivory & turquoise. The colours will run into each other and partly blend as they dry. Once dry repeat until you like the look of it.


I know now this is quite the blast from the past....but thanks for this I find it highly useful. But a follow on question, if you could answer after GD or as time permits. On the gorilla's left hand the metal appears to have almost a crack in it, and your shades sort of coincide with this. Did you first apply a crackle medium, and THEN paint it like normal? Thx again for this most useful of NMM clinics.
 

Sproket

New member
I know now this is quite the blast from the past....but thanks for this I find it highly useful. But a follow on question, if you could answer after GD or as time permits. On the gorilla's left hand the metal appears to have almost a crack in it, and your shades sort of coincide with this. Did you first apply a crackle medium, and THEN paint it like normal? Thx again for this most useful of NMM clinics.

There is no crackle medium involved, all of the damage on Chee-chee is painted freehand. Some of it was started off by dabbing on a little brown colour with a sponge (as in the paint chip technique) that gave me a random texture that I further enhanced with additional painting.

View attachment 31709
 
I see now. Very impressive how you did that. Been spending a lot of time on your blog recently just cuz there's so much to learn from if you really follow each project.

Looks like you enhanced it further with freehand by adding some white edges here and there. Can't tell but maybe some soft dark edges too. Anyway looks incredible. It really looks like some of the metal has flaked off.
 

Kretcher

Active member
Indeed BoK it is a very good thread to learn from and also Mr Sproket is very kindly helping out and explaining things, now just practice to reach his level. Easy said and almost almost impossible to do. It is said that hope is the last thing that we human leave on earth ;)

/Kretcher
 

Sproket

New member
Looks like you enhanced it further with freehand by adding some white edges here and there. Can't tell but maybe some soft dark edges too. Anyway looks incredible. It really looks like some of the metal has flaked off.

Your eyes aren't deceiving you. There is quite a bit of subtle freehand work over the sponging but the thing that brings it all together and makes it pop is the light/dark edge highlighting.

In other news I'm almost halfway through my self imposed mini in two weeks for GD challenge. There is still a fair old bit to do but things have gone very well and I'm on schedule. I've got next week off work so that gives me seven days of full time painting. I'm feeling a lot more confident (at the moment) about having the mini ready and in a presentable state for GD.
 

Azouzoo

New member
I'm super excited to see what can be achieved in 2 weeks by a top notch painter. Good luck Sir, I for one will be rooting for you.
 
Here we go again - starting up a new project.
There should just be time for me to get Jason done in time for Salute. Preparation is 90% done ready for painting.

View attachment 25762

The original face was a bit bland for my taste so I've performed a little chop and swap and given him the head off the statue that came as a part of his base. I just think that there's a bit more to work with on this face.
I've also fully prepped up the base and overall composition (there's a first), as this will save me a bit of time and effort as the project nears completion. All I have to concentrate on now is painting.
The base is an unused one I made or my Hellion in the run up to Salute 2013. It's funny how things work out as I've had the basic idea for Jason's composition right from day one but didn't realise the key element of the base was there all the time! The tree for the Golden Fleece is made up of root fragments scavenged from the Tombs of the Kings on Cyprus and the Ram's skull comes from a GW basing kit. The fleece itself is still a Work in progress, as I need to sculpt the wool texture onto it.

View attachment 25763

Searched your blog for how you made this epic rock and couldn't find anything. When you have a moment, can you quickly describe what the rock is made from, and how you painted it? Really been leaning on you for inspiration lately :)
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
I don't know whether I should be worried, or relaxed about the silence from Sproket considering there's only three painting days left.
HOPEFULLY he's so busy that he hasn't the time to share his results so far with us.



GO DAVE, GO DAVE, GO DAVE!
 
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