Kretcher WIP
- Thread starter Kretcher
- Start date
Your purple is a Violet-Blue, so you may want to look at strengthening the dark tones with the complementary colour mixed in. Now if I'm reading my wheel correctly that's a Yellow-orange and seems a little strange initially, but if you look at how ten ball's done a lot of his NMM you'll see that the tonality of the darker areas go towards edges with highlight paths not limited to edge lining.
Hi Kretcher,
that's really a good work on this one. Like the freehand, looks nice. Wish I had your gift for freehand painting. Of course, if you like, just correct. But my experience is, that in 50% of those cases, one / I might end up worse. Just leave it as it is, it is very well done
that's really a good work on this one. Like the freehand, looks nice. Wish I had your gift for freehand painting. Of course, if you like, just correct. But my experience is, that in 50% of those cases, one / I might end up worse. Just leave it as it is, it is very well done
So still doing a lot of work in the house after the moving, so not much minature painting. Have taken one figure to finish before fang competition. below is one pic of the front of my Farseer wich is the one that I will try to get ready before the end of this month.
First time doing NMM gold and steel on a bit bigger areas, suggestions and tips are welcomed.
View attachment 27547
First time doing NMM gold and steel on a bit bigger areas, suggestions and tips are welcomed.
View attachment 27547
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
II like the gold. Nice and bright, I call it high elf gold. Maybe add another highlight, though this would be hard since the mid is so bright. So maybe make a slightly darker mid? IDK though, don't want to ruin it. It looks especially good on the pommel. That shade looks like good feathering. No expert here, I've really only done 4-5 minis with different degrees if "tarnished" gold.
I think you need to build up some layers on the steel. Make it more opaque in places. That will help exaggerate the contrast. You could also use a strong white glint directly on the tip.
Hope this his is helpful. Overall though it looks good, you can def get away with not changing a thing. Cheers.
I think you need to build up some layers on the steel. Make it more opaque in places. That will help exaggerate the contrast. You could also use a strong white glint directly on the tip.
Hope this his is helpful. Overall though it looks good, you can def get away with not changing a thing. Cheers.
Humanitarian
New member
The robes look great, and I like the gem in the middle as well.
Gandalf the Grey
New member
This looks excellent but I have a point on the central. Is the cloth area to it's left too light ? There does not seem quiet enough contrast compared to the other folds.
Yes that is correct, I have gone over it again since I lost some mid tones there and still need to work in the shadow parts there. Nicelly spotted
Have got some more time and started the NMM on the sword, I am happy with the result so far for a first serious try on NMM.
View attachment 27745
View attachment 27745
Gandalf the Grey
New member
I'm liking how this is coming on.
I believe NMM is hard to photograph ? Is this picture a true reflection of your work.
I believe NMM is hard to photograph ? Is this picture a true reflection of your work.
Yeap it is true to my work, on my screen the light areas on the steel is a little bit dark. but generally it looks like reality for me. But it is so hard since that changes on every computer screen you look on. Also the colour might change depeding on the light used for the photo. In this one I am using a daylight lamp and it gives a little to the green/blue hue to the light.
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Got one more hour in of painting and started the other side of the sword...not all colours "blovked in yet and also a lot of glasing to smoothen things out left too be done.
View attachment 27749
View attachment 27749
Fixed some of the base, will now add some water effects on top. Hope it works will test on another piece first thou too know what to expect...
View attachment 27829
will test on another piece first thou too know what to expect...View attachment 27829
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]Here is the test, first version is two layers of Vallejo water effect. the last one I have added a layer that have white mixed into the water effect. That one is not yet dried and I will see tomorrow if the result is ok. I believe that I have to much white inside but very hard to judge since it is white from the beginning and impossible to see the effect, just to try and learn.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]Anyone else that have used vallejo water effect and have a good recipe for adding colours into it Ratios for different usage?[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]In any case here is the pictures...
[/FONT]View attachment 27843View attachment 27844
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]Anyone else that have used vallejo water effect and have a good recipe for adding colours into it Ratios for different usage?[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]In any case here is the pictures...
[/FONT]View attachment 27843View attachment 27844
Gandalf the Grey
New member
Looking nice. I've used Woodland Scenic with white paint and had the same issue, my first test ended up way too white, in face I have temporarily abandoned the white but will have to re-visit it soon.
